Abysswater Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 20 gal high tank with SCWD return, Mag 5 pump, homemade pumbing, home made overflow box. 10 gal sump homemade glass baffles and siphon return bubble box. Link to comment
Sean_Buckley Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 Very nice setup! Nice and clean. Almost exactly the same thing I'm doing with my 20 gallon high. Almost. Can I make a couple of suggestions though? I would paint the back of the aquarium to hide the SCWD and pipes, and maybe cover the bottom part where the fuge is. I would think that it would take away from the beauty of the main tank. Just a couple of suggestions. Very nice setup! Sean Link to comment
ProFlatlander15 Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 looks good. what are you doing for lighting? Link to comment
Abysswater Posted October 20, 2005 Author Share Posted October 20, 2005 looks good. what are you doing for lighting? Thanks for the comments! Not sure yet on lighting. But yes i need to cover the back and plan on making a cover system over the sump. Do you guy's paint the back of your tanks or use printed back drops like at the LFS has?? I made the over flow out of a CD holder from the Container store with was 8 bucks then the siphon intake overflow is a baseball storage cube modified. I bought the u tube from local FS. Plumbing from home depot. 50 bucks total. Link to comment
Sean_Buckley Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 My, aren't we inventive! Thats genius! I don't know what I'll do about my background yet, I have to research...I'm not exactly sure the pros and cons, but I'm leaning toward black plastic sheets or something, as they can be changed later if I don't like the colour, but it would be a lot harder to do if I painted it. Sean Link to comment
100 Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 10 gal sump homemade glass baffles and siphon return bubble box. Where did you get glass to fit perfect as baffles. Did you have them cut at a local glass company? Did you use silicon to hold them in place? Also how did you make that siphon bubble box? Is that glass also looks awesome! Link to comment
Abysswater Posted October 24, 2005 Author Share Posted October 24, 2005 Where did you get glass to fit perfect as baffles. Did you have them cut at a local glass company? Did you use silicon to hold them in place? Also how did you make that siphon bubble box? Is that glass also looks awesome! The glass baffles are from homedepot they are percut 8" x 10" fit perfectly. The sicphon tube outside box is made out od a arylic CD box holder from the container store 8 bucks. And the inside collection box is a baseball storage cube modified. 5 bucks at container store. The bubbe box in the sump is a piece or arylic from HD too. 8 x 10 inch. heated up the center and bent it with heat torch, then did my routing with a dremal routing bit etc. And yes all of it os silconed in place. glass to glass, aryic to glass etc. Link to comment
100 Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 Awesome info thanks!! The only thing is I thought siliconing acyrilc to glass didn't work??? It's working for you? Thanks again. Link to comment
Abysswater Posted October 25, 2005 Author Share Posted October 25, 2005 Awesome info thanks!! The only thing is I thought siliconing acyrilc to glass didn't work??? It's working for you? Thanks again. Myth! I have been using it for years with fresh water tanks etc. It's how well you apply and seal it. Plus try to find a silicone that works for arylic. Home depot had some in the area of there arylic precut stuff. GE brand. And yes! it works just great. I did a text first, tried to pull it off of a mock up, it was hard to do! Link to comment
Abysswater Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 Here is an update and water pump test. Everything looks good so far! Link to comment
Gwoardnog Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 Just to make sure: You've got siphon breaks on your return lines right? Link to comment
calvin Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Impressive work! But with DIY skills like yours, why didn't you just drill the tank? Link to comment
Abysswater Posted November 11, 2005 Author Share Posted November 11, 2005 Just to make sure: You've got siphon breaks on your return lines right? Yes I drilled some hole about 1/4" below the display level and tested it with power off. and it is overflow proof by design. Thanks for the tip! Works great! Impressive work! But with DIY skills like yours, why didn't you just drill the tank? Well i was, but I decided to just build a cheap overflow siphon for now. Becuase I'm sure I will upgrade into a bigger tank later on. But for now I just need to learn about salt life and water. I have been doing fresh water for 20 years and got bored with it. Thanks for your comments. Link to comment
distantfire Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 Take a look at the T5's for lighting your 20gal. www.nanoturners.com. Link to comment
Sean_Buckley Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 "www.nanotuners.com" isn't it? Sean Link to comment
distantfire Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 Yeah www.nanotuners.com don't know why the extra r got in the word tuners. They should have just called the site nanocustoms and left it that LOL. Link to comment
DarkXerox Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 great to know about the baffles, I need the exact same things for my 10 gallon sump im setting up now. Thanks! Link to comment
Wetline Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 Abysswater or anyone else that might know... What is the black "T" joint that you used for splitting the return lines? Is it merely a "T" joint or are there valves or something on it? It has an interesting shape, I was just curious. Link to comment
Abysswater Posted November 16, 2005 Author Share Posted November 16, 2005 Abysswater or anyone else that might know... What is the black "T" joint that you used for splitting the return lines? Is it merely a "T" joint or are there valves or something on it? It has an interesting shape, I was just curious. That's called a SCWD it is a machnical baffle type device that deverts water every 10 seconds from one return to the other similar to a wave maker. I got it from marine depot. it has some restrictions, but just get a bigger return pump to make up the diffrance. I like it alot! http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=3Q1111 Link to comment
scarf_ace1981 Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 abysswater. this is the same setup i would like for my 40. everyone is always talking about bulkheads. i see you haven't gone that route. for some reason i can't enlarge the pics. i would love to see what you did in detail as it is exactly what i want to do. good luck. for the baffles and siphon return, can't i use those clear acrylic boxes from lfs used before they bag up the fish? they have the lip you can use to H.O.B.T. Link to comment
Abysswater Posted November 17, 2005 Author Share Posted November 17, 2005 abysswater. this is the same setup i would like for my 40. everyone is always talking about bulkheads. i see you haven't gone that route. for some reason i can't enlarge the pics. i would love to see what you did in detail as it is exactly what i want to do. good luck. for the baffles and siphon return, can't i use those clear acrylic boxes from lfs used before they bag up the fish? they have the lip you can use to H.O.B.T. yes you are right, I did not use any bulkhead fitting. I the pic fitting #1 is a 3/4" threaded end to a female pipe glue end from lowes. And Fitting #2 is a end to end female coupler and down below is just a 3/4 male to viynl fitting slip on type fitting which the tubing gos down to my sump system tank. On fitting #1 you will have to judge the thickness of what ever type of container you use. The fittings only screw down so far so you will have to make a spacer washer to take up the gap, and just silicone the surface to seal it. thats it. I will take a better pic when I get home the evening. Cool! Link to comment
FloorLord Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 nice set-up. one question/reccomendation: that sure is not alot of flow, especially when the SCWD cuts waaaaaay back on your GPH, and also, it is cutting back even more, with how low your SCWD is, I would put the SCWD up alot higher, with less tubing going to your returns. just a suggestion, think gravity wise, the water travelling completely vertical, before it reaches the SCWD. hope this helps! D Link to comment
Abysswater Posted November 19, 2005 Author Share Posted November 19, 2005 nice set-up.one question/reccomendation: that sure is not alot of flow, especially when the SCWD cuts waaaaaay back on your GPH, and also, it is cutting back even more, with how low your SCWD is, I would put the SCWD up alot higher, with less tubing going to your returns. just a suggestion, think gravity wise, the water travelling completely vertical, before it reaches the SCWD. hope this helps! D Yea I tried that! But one problem, the viynl hose only can take a certain radius bend plus with heat to shape. It was pinching the tube close and I was creating even more of a problem. The flows is very good the way it is. I even tried using pvc with more 90's elbows even worse. Sooooooo! It's doing great! Thanks for your input! Link to comment
distantfire Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Abysswater do you think the mag 7 would be overkill thru the scwd on your 20H? I know your using the mag 5 right now. I'd like to know how many gph you think your losing with the scwd. Just your best guess is fine. And if you can tell how long it's taken to switch the water flow from one side to the other. Is it every 15 seconds 10 seconds 5 seconds? Thanx in advance Link to comment
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