Nanocustoms ICA (Integrated Chill Assist)

[artarmon42]

Chris,

Start your morning temperature higher.

I don't know many people who run the tank that cool, and you'll end up with a smaller shift.

I expect if you start at 78, you might hit 80 at end of day.

[ccjung]

Yeah, i just want to see the extremes of what can be done. Personally i dont mind temps of 81-82.

 

Always taking them for the team arent we yuen?

 

Chris

[dga]

8mm is only around 5/16 of an inch that protrudes below the guard. for those of us that have the ability is there enough heat sink left for proper cooling if we machine off the 8mm? and can the heat sink assembly be removed from the peltier so as to use a heat transfer compound like artic silver or artic alumina, unless you allready use either of those compounds. im assuming in the assembly process your using a standard heat sink compound such as a silicone based?

[ccjung]

Yeah, im already using arctic alumina thermal adhesive to sandwich the TEC between the heatsink and waterblock. I think another solution to oxidation woes, would be to heavily coat the lower half to protect it.

 

The ultimate solution is a custom heatsink, which i dont think should be ruled out in future builds.

 

Chris

[drbegalke]

You mention that you need to design a thermostat/controller.. will that be included in the production device or an additional upgrade down the road?

 

i.e., I don't need a full 20 W of cooling, and would hate to have the ICA and my heater battle each other 24/7...

 

Thanks!

[ccjung]

Hi Drbegalke-

 

The first iteration of the ICA will just be a simple on/off device. I am working to develop a controller for it that will actually work to heat/cool the device to whatever the setpoint is (assuming your thermal load doesnt exceed the ICA's rating).

 

Unfortunately with summer coming, I think the upcoming version of the ICA is a stopgap, and users will have to either cycle it on/off on timers, or have the heater battle it.

 

The good news is that the current ICA will be "ready" for the conroller when released. Because Im trying to keep this device competitive with the iceprobe's controller (MSRP 60), i have to submit my design specifications to several companys to get a competitive offer. I'm leaning heavily towards Digital Aquatics because in the future, I'd like to integrate the Reefkeeper into the Cube.

 

My current strategy on my girlfriends tank (nc 6) is to have the chiller come on when the lights are on. (this is a normal ICA i've put in (outside the tank) just becasue temps are getting VERY hot in CA).

 

If you are dead set on a controller, there are several available on the market now, but may not be able to give you the heat/cool capabilities if thats what you are looking for.

 

Also, in a post in this thread, i believe seldon mentioned a DIY controller which should work.

 

Thanks for the support and keep the questions coming...

 

Chris

[stoney waters]

Originally posted by ccjung

Hi Drbegalke-

 

My current strategy on my girlfriends tank (nc 6) is to have the chiller come on when the lights are on. (this is a normal ICA i've put in (outside the tank) just becasue temps are getting VERY hot in CA).

 

Chris

 

This strategy would work well for cubes with upgraded lighting or halides. But there are alot of people having overheating issues due to multiple pumps. I can say that my tank was having temps in the low to mid 80's at night because of an added pump.

[ccjung]

You got a great point.

 

perhaps the saving grace of the ICA is it has the variable voltage adapter from 3 - 8.4v.

 

For the person who just cares about offsetting the pump temps, you would find out your heat load by pumps and find an appropriate voltage setting on the variable voltage AC adapter.

 

UNLOADED (24g PUMP ONLY). Assumes TEC is 85% efficient at heat transfer. Note for thermo buffs, this doesnt represent net thermodynamic efficiency, eta, but teh efficiency of the TEC to MOVE heat.

 

Power supplied to TEC--------------Heat Out (watts)

At 3.0v @ 1.20 A = 3.60W x .85 = 3.06w

At 4.2v @ 1.66 A = 6.92W x .85 = 5.57w

At 5.0v @ 2.00 A = 10.0W x .85 = 8.50w

At 6.0v @ 2.30 A = 13.8W x .85 = 11.73 w

At 6.5v @ 2.50 A = 16.2W x .85 = 13.81 w

At 8.4v @ 3.20 A = 26.8W x .85 = 22.84 w <---- Max on Power supply

==========================================

At 10.0v @ 4.00 A = 40.0W x .85 = 34.00 w <---- Optimal

==========================================

At 12.0v @ 4.30 A = 51.6W x .85 = 43.86 w

 

At 14.0v @ 5.00 A = 70.0W x .85 = 59.50 w

 

Ive found that the ICA performs best at 10.0v and has the ability to pull the most heat. However 10.0v is a difficult factor, especially at 4.0 A. I will be on the lookout for an affordable 10v/4.0A AC adapter. Right now, they look like they are 50-60 bucks each if i can even find the right combination.

 

When the controller is designed, it will be designed to handle more volts/watts as well.

 

Thanks

 

Chris

[ccjung]

I guess thats the part about the nanocube that the non cube owner just wouldnt understand. Even with NO lighting, these things never run ambient or cool. Compounding it is the fact that the lights have the ability to heat the water thoroughout the day, and theres no way out since the top is sealed. The easy solution is to open the lid, but none of us hardcore nanocubers want to do it. Lol.

 

I am also using the word "energy bias device" to describe what the TEC does, because it just moves energy in and out of the tank.

 

Chris

[stoney waters]

Yea.. Nano-Cubes have their problems. But one at a time, you and the rest of this comunity are overcoming them.

Right now I wouldnt have anything else.

 

Keep up the good work.

[Seldon]

I have been using a powersupply from a laptop. They usually have a high voltage and amperage so they should work well. About getting them in large quantities, I am not sure. You could try contacting Lite On about getting some. They make the powersupply for my hp laptop and may be have one that fits your specs.

 

seldon

[techabytes]

Hi Chris!

 

So how hard would the ICA be to install for someone who doesn't know much more than how to unscrew and plug in things? I have your larnie edition with a fuge light. I also need to replace one burned out helios bulb (result of a idiotic move on my part). I've been putting it off because I have these visions of breaking the other bulbs trying to slide in a new bulb...ugh.

 

But I am quite tired of looking at my pretty nanocube with the lid up all the time!

[ccjung]

if you want/can afford to ship it to and fro, i have no problems making the mods for you or my other customers.

 

Let me know..

 

Chris

[dga]

Does the TEC require AC or DC output from the power supply? my supplier (and any purchaser) has 8v 6.5 amp DC output with IEC powercords or 12v 8.4 amp with molex friction lock headers in bulk very inexpensively. just a thought.

[techabytes]

Very cool, Chris. Since you ship these frequently, can you tell me how much shipping would be on a hood - zip is 86442? Sounds like a win win situation for me.

 

Btw, since you mentioned those heat producing pumps, I wanted to add that I replaced my one RIO90 pump with TWO Tunze 5024.04 pumps (thanks to Larnie for posting about them), and my temps dropped almost half a degree! I had to wait 6 weeks to get them from Premium Aquatics, but they were well worth it!

[emoutz]

When are the ICAs scheduled to ship? ordered one last week and I'm wondering when it might arrive.

[ccjung]

The waterblocks are in and we are working on some finishing touches. They should start shipping monday.

 

Also, FYI, the next round of heatsinks are getting the same milspec treatment as well, so if you want to forego the first round and wait for the next, please let me know.

 

The additional treatment of the heatsink is not neccessary, however I feel its added protection and durability.

 

Chris

[ccjung]

dga- lets talk. one of the toughest things to find are the power supplies in the format needed. Ive found that the tec/heatsink has peak performance at 10v 4.0A. Any higher and the heatsink cant get the heat out.

 

Chris

[dga]

Originally posted by ccjung

dga- lets talk. one of the toughest things to find are the power supplies in the format needed. Ive found that the tec/heatsink has peak performance at 10v 4.0A. Any higher and the heatsink cant get the heat out.

 

Chris

 

 

I'll check specs and product supply.

[Seldon]

How is your current test setup doing? Is it still using the stock waterblock (the one in the pic on the first page)or do you have the new waterblock on? Did you notice any ill-effects when running the origonal water block?

seldon

[ccjung]

I am still running the stock waterblock on my personal tank and things seem to be doing great.

 

Thermodynamically, its doing a pretty good job of offsetting temps. I did what Artamon suggested and kicked my temp up to 78 as my low.

 

In 82-83 ambients, i end the day at 81.5-82 after a 12 hour photoperiod.

 

I am finalizing the design of the MH + ICA and have come upon some great developments that should greatly reduce the in hood temps by 20+ F in the hood. With this decreased Hood temperature, I expect that our temps will decrease.

 

I will be swapping hoods on my personal tank and assessing the stock waterblock to see if i can discern any corrosion or surface wear. I think because of the continous service, there will be negligible, if any damage.

 

Long term tho, it can be expected that without the Milspec Hard Coat, the piece would eventually be affected.

 

Chris

[drbegalke]

Chris:

I placed an order for the ICA, however, I am thinking of waiting for the milspec coated heatsink version.... (I sent you an email...)

 

When will that version be ready for shipping?

 

Thanks,

Jason

[artarmon42]

Originally posted by ccjung

I did what Artamon suggested and kicked my temp up to 78 as my low.

 

In 82-83 ambients, i end the day at 81.5-82 after a 12 hour photoperiod.  

 

Should be able to get more cooling out of that TEC ???

 

How's the controller coming along?

[Nickeleye]

Originally posted by drbegalke

Chris:

I placed an order for the ICA, however, I am thinking of waiting for the milspec coated heatsink version.... (I sent you an email...)

 

When will that version be ready for shipping?

 

Thanks,

Jason

 

Jason,

The heatsinks just went out yesterday so we will hope to have them back in the very near future. The heatsinks will actually be chemplated now. The new plating will still be high quality. It is just a different coating process than anodizing.

[ccjung]

ICA Update:

 

The Heatsinks came back yesterday. We are now an arctic silver dealer as well, and we should be getting our Arctic Alumina in tomorrow.

 

Looks like the ICAs will start shipping Friday. Thanks for your support and patience.

 

Chris