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Nanocustoms ICA (Integrated Chill Assist)


ccjung

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What does it do?

Wear resistance is the most frequent reason for specifying Hardcoat Anodizing. However, because Hardcoat is also highly dielectric, it is often used to insulate assembly components. Corrosion resistance is a third reason for using Hardcoat. At normal film thickness of 0.002", the coating offers corrosion protection superior to that of other anodic coatings, especially when it is sealed.

 

 

Quote from that link.

 

I guess its good idea but wouldn't that form of anodizing greatly reduce effect of the water block?

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Yeah, any coating will hinder performance at the interface slightly.

 

Revision 2 of the waterblock should feature some nice fluid dynamic tricks (boundary layer trip/increased turbulence for better mixing & thermal transfer).

 

Unfortunately at this time, we arent a huge company, so most of this stuff is done at the hobbyist level.

 

Chris

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great.

 

And please don't get me wrong!

 

I want you to succeed on this because its really cool idea and chap solution versus buying those chillers!

 

I will even buy one!

 

HAHA

 

BTW, you are doing a great thing on the contest!

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Thanks for the support. It is definately much cheaper than a chiller if you can afford to have less resolution or absolutely need your tank to be below a certain temp, even at the cost of slightly larger temp swings.

 

Chron- i havent thought of EVERY angle, just some of the more obvious ones. As nanocube owners were a strange breed. We will go to almost any lengths to keep this thing looking bone stock from the outside. I think that the ICA is a good solution, although better performing solutions may exist.

 

1 more thing. There is 1 other way to get rapid massive cooling from teh TEC and I think i will only try this with my own tanks. That is to use water as the heat export mechanism, IE another water block. This could probably give you some major pulldown, but at the expense of a slightly less sightly cube. Im on it!

 

 

Chris

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oogie - sorry i missed this one.

 

"dielectric & insulate" i think refer to electrically insulating aluminum.

 

Dielectric means "resists electricity" so i think thats what they refer to.

 

Since you have been into PC modding for a while, do you have any thoughts on a particular vendor that you feel makes superior products? I have been talking to swiftech to see if they can help design a better device, more tailored to our needs.

 

We'll have to wait and see.

 

Chris

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Chronicles

I know you haven't thought of "every" angle, but I was just trying to tell people who had no idea about your other threads that you have been testing this. They seemed to think you just made this the night before and were going to sell it the next day. I'm still debating on buying this, or building my closed loop with an ice probe or other TEC. That could be another addon solution for you to consider for people who have the NC stand, simple acrylic box or pvc type tube, with a pump and 2 lines.

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I have had great experiences with swiftech. I have used one of thier TEC waterblocks on my pc before and it worked great. Also, I was wondering, what are we getting with the kit? Would it be possible to just purchase the water block from you?

Thanks,

Seldon

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Chronicles

This is what I mean: if you could make this an option it would allow you to cool more. Basicly you'd have to take drill and cut 2 notches in the rear, and mount this "box" on the NC shelf or somewhere else. You have the parts and means to make something like this possible, and could be another way to cool the NC, more like an IICA and EICA (internal vs external). Don't forget you'd have to put a small port (pvc?) with an endcap to fill the "tank" before running it. Since it would be closed loop you wouldn't lose it on loss of power. Just an idea! Also we're talking about only 18" of head max, so a giant pump wouldn't be needed. Just something small to move water slowly around the system.

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Chronicles, your acrylic box idea is great. If Chris or anyone else would manufacture and sell something kind of like a sump, I would surely buy it. I just bought the IAC because I am not a DIY type person and there are not many other choices out there.

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Chronicles

Well it'd have to be closed loop, that way there is no need for an overflow, or risk of something bad going wrong when the power goes out, just a simple: Prime it the first time, close the cap and turn the pump on! Glad you like it, maybe chris will make it as an option!

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Chronicles

Yep it would work great! btw if you use this idea, all I want is a discount on one :happy: Think of the possibilities chris, not just for nano cubes, but an addon chiller for all tanks!

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Chronicles

BTW I wanted to say sorry for thread jacking! If you want me to edit my posts just IM me. I also thought you wouldn't need an access port, since the first time you could just suck the water down the intake tube via the return and then replace the hood, or start it like a siphon overflow by putting an airline tube up the return and sucking out the air. Sorry again for thread jacking! :(

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lol. i dont care at all about that. lol.

 

Keep it coming. Everytime you post we get new ideas and new thoughts. Thats really why i support the NR community.

 

I think your idea is a good one. Im interested to see how it goes. If you can wait a few months, i may be able to help you with the acrylic (b/c of skimmer designing/etc) but that PVC version you posted previously looks like it may do the job as well.

 

I know some people dislike threadjacks, but anything that keeps people thinking./talking/posting is a good thing, even if its not about the title.

 

Keep em coming chronicles

 

Chris

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I have had great experiences with swiftech. I have used one of thier Seldon - "TEC waterblocks on my pc before and it worked great. Also, I was wondering, what are we getting with the kit?"

 

The "ICA" kit would come with the ICA unit and powersupply for fans and the TEC. As of now teh controller is still in design, but will be compatible with our current configuration. As of now, its an on/off device and I plan to release an optional temp controller module that will let it heat/cool at a setpoint.

 

Would it be possible to just purchase the water block from you?

>> Yes, thats part of the plan and i will post them once the blocks come in from the anodizer.

 

Chris

 

 

Thanks,

Seldon

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I would like to know how all of this stuff can fit in this little tank. Never mind that, Chris keep coming up with these great mods, and I'll keep buying!

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"Stoney- Yes, the fans protrude about 8 mm down below the splashguard. I had a lower profile heatsink, but TECs are dominated by heatsink performance. It will help ventilate the "convection zone" and help with oxygen exchange. There are some risks with this scenario, and i recommend sealing up the interface to prevent salt creep."

 

 

Chris, per your above quote, do i read this correctly or is it a typo concerning the "fans protrude about 8mm down below the splashguard" is this meant that the aluminum port protrudes below the splashguard? and the fan is in the stock position attached to the hood?

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Today was a HOT day in SOCAL. As some of you who may have been following this thread know, i have chosen to test the ICA on the cube that produces the most heat (70wMH + 24g Pump) in order to see the performance of the "worst case scenario". In prior testing of lower heat models I had much better results. What I am testing is the "extreme".

 

For most who have lower thermal loads, you should have appreciably better performance.

 

With ambient temps around 81-82, we have good progress on the ICA in MODE 2 (Thermal energy buffer).

 

My tank is running 78.8F (It scares me to think of what the MH would be without it since 76amb = 86 E.O.D Temp) What we see is very very interesting. Namely that the ability of the water to "fight" the heat from the lights in addition to ICA operation seems less dependent on Ambient temperature than with non ICA'd models. in fairly warm ambient temperatures. I have a feeling this weekend will be a good test.

 

With the lights on full blast (70w MH) and the 24g pump pumping, we get morning temps of 75.0 and end of day temps of 79.5.

 

What we see is very very interesting. Namely that the ability of the water to "fight" the heat from the lights in addition to ICA operation seems less dependent on Ambient temperature than with non ICA'd models.

 

For those interested in MODE 1 (2 TECS, full temperature control) Ill be installing a second TEC into my MH mod and see if we can get the temps to be controlled "spot" on.

 

Chris

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dga - sorry, yes, i meant the fansink assembly protrudes approx 8mm below. The fan mounts in the same 60mm location.

 

this leaves a bit for venting air from the convection zone, but as you can imagine, would probably raise concerns about corrosion. My plan before release is developing a neoprene or similar gasket to protect the fins from corrosion.

 

Option b isnt bad either, and that would be to have the heatsinks stripped/anodized as well.

 

Chris

 

 

Chris

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Seldon - that will be a great DIY controller. I have thought of that, but the costs would be prohibitively expensive to produce in a large quantity.

 

I basically know what i need, just need a firm to give me a competitive price on it.

 

One peculiarity of the TEC is when the power is turned off, it will slowly heat up again, often causing annoying oscillations between on and off, the best way to approach this is to develop a Proportional controller, that will also fade the power sent to the TEC as the setpoint is reached for a "soft landing".

 

Im talking to Digital Aquatics right now about a solution that could suit our needs.

 

Chris

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