24G Nano Cube DX Startup, Setup, Manual for newbies, in the works

[steelhealr]

This is one of the more 'classic' combos. Another interesting combo but difficult to keep pairs is a yellow striped clingfish and a spiny urchin. SH

[steelhealr]

This is one of the more 'classic' combos. Another interesting combo but difficult to keep pairs is a yellow striped clingfish and a spiny urchin. SH

[sr71pav]

How deep is your sand bed? I've seen some places that say you need it deep to see this behavior, and I'm wondering what I'll need if I get a combo.

[steelhealr]

My sand bed at the highest can't be more than 2 inches...in some places flat glass as above. Those guys have a tunnel system that extends at least from the tunnel you see above to the middle of the tank where my sun corals are. Don't believe EVERYTHING you hear. I would think that a thicker sand bed would be more necessary for jawfish. SH

[steelhealr]

New additions

 

Hey..I get ideas from others the same as people who visit this thread. One of those was bobiodens thread on fromia sea stars. My lfs had one in this week....only thing is the appearance is a little different than the description online. So, hopefully, the below new inhabitant is a fromia millporella. The other new addition is a blue ricordea acclimating right behind it:

 

 

 

SH

[steelhealr]

I was able to I.D this star at the fromia indica, or Indian Sea Star or Red and Black Sea Star..it IS reefsafe. SH

[steelhealr]

I could only see one pic at work..the third one and that looks like aiptasia to me. Will recheck later. If aiptasia, better take care of it soon. SH

[trekbear]

Well Jabesnyder,

 

That anemone is an Aiptasia, a pest. If not taken into check, these pests will spread quickly. If you have a peppermint shrimp it may get rid of it naturally for you. Other methods are Lemon Juice injected into the anemone or Hot boiling Sea water injected into it.

 

Commercially available are Joe's Juice and STOP Aiptasia both of these are injected into the mouth of the pest and left to dissolve it away.

 

HTH,

TrekBear

[jabesnyder]

TB thanks for the ID. I was wondering if it was an aiptasia - guess I'll get rid of him.

 

Obviously I'm having problems posting pictures.. you guys have a link to an easy & free way?

[steelhealr]

Photobucket.com..it's free. Register...upload your pix....write your post..cut and paste the third box under the pic..voila. SH

[jabesnyder]

SH / TB,

 

Okay, these are my pics so far. Again, just starting at this so please forgive me for annoyances. Thanks for all your help!!

 

Whole Tank:

 

 

 

Not sure what this is:

 

 

This is aiptasia and I need to kill it?

 

 

Feather Duster (I have 2!)

 

 

Let me know what you think!

[steelhealr]

Top looks like types of macroalgae. Not sure about 3...sponge? 4 is aiptasia and bubble algae (valonia); 5 is a featherduster and bubble algae, IMO. SH

[Ghostryder]

I believe that aiptasia is a curly cue, which appears to be less malignant than the related glass anenome.

 

http://www.nautilusreef.com/html/tbs_live_...k_index_37.html

[jabesnyder]

Oh, no - I already ran out to the drug store, got a syringe, and injected him with Lemon Juice! The way he reacted, I'm pretty sure that he is a goner.

 

That said, I'm not sure he doesn't have friends lurking around in areas I haven't seen, so maybe I'll give them more of a chance if I see them again.

 

I also removed a definite Mantis shrimp last night - he came out of nowhere, was whacking everything around (including the glass) - he was a 2-3 inch green guy who seemed very violent

 

AND, I have seen 2 small bristle worms, though have not had opportunity to get them. Man, I really do not want to have to pull all the LR / LS out and inspect it. I think I'll just remove them as I see them.

[jabesnyder]

SH, I don't see any bubble algae - it could be my photo (or me) - I have identified the green fuzzy stuff as macro algae fuzzy fingers (Dasycladus vermicularis) - it's dying off in high flow areas but growing in others.. the ones in this pic appear to be new growth.

 

Keep in mind that is a very close-up photo. I turned the contrast up because he's kind of in the shade - the feather duster is only about 1/2" in diameter. I think that due to the limits of my photographic skills, you can't see the texture of the green algae. It is very fuzzy and spongy rather than like a bubble.

 

Please let me know if you agree with this analysis.

 

I think I may end up getting rid of all the macro algae in the display tank eventually when I populate with coral but I'm not sure - what do you think?

[steelhealr]

You may be right..it's hard to tell..if it is not a bubble, ain't bubble algae. Dont worry about zapping that anemone....looks very 'aiptasia-ish' to me. Better off without it IMO. As for the macro...some can take off...some may not and maybe beneficial. You might want to watch and see how it grows. SH

[emoutz]

That was definitely not aptasia

[steelhealr]

The tentacles looke aiptasia-ish to me. Doesn't matter....anemones don't fare well in nano tanks in general and, since it is a hitchhiker, I think the chances of it being a POSITIVE addition to your tank are low. JMO. SH

[lewistg]

SH,

I believe back on one of your first pages suggested using lights right from the start with cured LR. Drs F&S suggest leaving lights off during entire cycle period...."Keep the lighting system off during the cycling period in order to reduce the likelihood of undesirable algae growth"... I will be starting 12g nano with LR and debating between all LS or a mix similar to you. What is the consensus with the lights during cycling

[gjones]

I listened to PA, and left my lights on a normal photo period, I do have a large diatom bloom now, but i also have some kool macro, but 2 small now 2 get a pic with my camera, and I'm still mid cycle, I guess it's up to you.PA cures their LR under HIGH lighting, and it turnes out great.

[steelhealr]

IMO, you may lose some life without lights. Diatoms will always be with the tank. I scraped some off my glass the other day. I posted elsewhere that I found it to be a barometer. I know when my nitrates or nutrient levels are going up: the frequency with which I have to scrape increases. Also, my most sensitive coral is my Fiji Leather..it'll close.

 

I would compromise...start with a short lighting interval and build it up to 12 hours/ day. eg...you could start with 2 hours of lighting and add an hour a day. I wouldn't blast it with 12 to start. JMO. SH

[steelhealr]

Well...my tank keeps looking the same to me, so, here are some tank updates and I'll stick to my new additions for awhile unless something really changes. I never want to be accused of overstaying my stay. SH

 

 

 

 

 

 

OOPS..sorry..wanted to get my clown and sixline on the marquis here, lol:

 

[Jason64]

SH,

That tank is one of the best tanks I've ever seen! And I lurked for almost a year before taking the NC plunge. You make it look so easy!

 

Just proves all these mods everyone does are for their own pleasure. You CAN have an awesome tank w/o them.

 

Do you take your sun coral out to feed? How much of a PIA is that to take care of?

 

J64

[emoutz]

As to the lights off/on question - I think it depends on the life you might have on your rock. Much live rock comes with some photosynthetic life that you may not want to lose (esp. coals). My LFS said "everything on the rock will die during cycling." This was simply not true. Most everything (with the exception of one encrusting SPS) lived.

[trekbear]

Hey Steelie,

 

Great shot of the tank. It is a work of art my friend!

 

I agree w/ Jason64, You CAN have a beautiful tank with the STOCK lighting. It just takes careful selection of the animals you keep. You have done an amazing job here!

 

Keep it up!

 

On a side note, I think that yellow fiji leather is needing to be fragged. I have a tank here in Oklahoma that needs a part of it

LOL (Not kidding here ) LOL

 

 

Edit: I also noticed your Pipe Organ coral is still doing great as is the Gorgonian... great stuff!

 

Take it easy!

TrekBear