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My 70w 20K Aqualine/Highhorse Nanocube


ccjung

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I had been thinking of doing this in my own cube for a while. My thoughts were that it would get way too hot in the tank from the bubl bein so close so I was thinking of making a hood spacer.

 

My thought is that you will run into the same problem so here is my thought.

 

Why not make about a 3 inch spacer that goes between the hood and the tank that is the same color...hell if you had the ability make it out of the same material as the hood and plastic on the tank.

 

Either way that would allow the extra room between the hood and the water to blow air across the the water to keep it cool, and would allow you to keep from having any issue of haveing fans blowing on the bulb.

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Thanks for the input. I have already gotten the aluminum enclosure from mouser.com..

 

Originally this was for the CFB 72 ballast that I was planning on building, but now its going to be used for the MH.. I will snap some pics tonight..

 

Thanks guys

 

Chris

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It has always been my understanding that regular, clear glass has remarkable UV filtering abilities. Hence, big-rig "truckers' elbow"... some trucker's are only darkly tanned on their left elbow, because that's the part of their body that often times isn't behind glass.

 

Also, UV protection values on window coatings/treatments are usually based against the a UV rating of 1/8" clear glass standard of 1. Therefore a UV rating of .49 of treated glass would block twice as much UV light as the 1/8" clear glass standard.

 

It's my understanding that 1/8" clear glass blocks between 40 to 50% of UV radiation on average.

 

My Custom Sea Life 400w MH pendents came with 3/16" of tempered glass, but I think that was mainly for it's shattering properties (kind of like safety glass if broke) and heat resistance rather than a far superior UV blocking ability. But maybe it was for all these reasons.

 

I would also surmise that since your little sheet of glass came out of a consumer high-heat output light fixture (what, probably a 300 - 500w halogen?), that it IS tempered glass!

 

Good on you Chris, keep keeping it up!

 

BTW- Wouldn't it be worth swinging by the Jet Propulsion Laboratory and asking a janitor for a scrap of the stuff they use to insulate the underside of the Space Shuttles? You know, those ceramic tiles? You'd only need a very small piece, and hey, we're all tax-payers... no since in throwing it out, right?

 

Just a thought.

 

:D

 

Where are those pics you promised? It's almost 6:00!!!!

 

Joe Mac

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Joe Mac wont let me sleep.. Hes literally on the phone with me till 1 - 2 am some times..

 

 

Anyways.. Here are the pics of the enclosure I plan to use to house the bulb/fixture..

 

It JUST FITS...

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Front on view.. Look how it lines up nicely with the vent..

 

jmt.. Almost as if you have been reading my mind..

 

Convergent or divergent evolution???

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Chris-

 

Sweet, sweet, sweet! Do you think you can purchase just the aluminum case from the manufacturer? That would be awesome.

 

I figure it would be perfect if those aluminum fins where on the outside of the case rather that the inside... but then again, they'd radiate more heat towards the tank water.

 

Totally too cool.

 

Why couldn't I have friends like you to play with when I was growing up?!?!?

 

For that matter, why can't I have friends with toys like you have now!

 

:*( :D

 

Joe Mac

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i would be rockin if the sinks of the heat sink were on the outside of the enclosure instead of the inside. however I would use metal spacers with plastic surrounds (to shield the hood from heat) and bolt another heatsink the the exterior of the hood.

 

I know im not being that clear but I'm thinking that you could couple the reflector to an exterior heatsink and then blow air across it. This would bring alot of the heat oustide of the hood where it could be better managed.

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Part II.. Cooling

 

I bought these vantec 50mm HDD coolers to cool the GEN I DX. The Second Edition DX cools so well that I dont have any use for them now...

 

Heres a pic of the fans. I had some heatshields made by emachineshop.. They will be in the 27th..

 

Her are the HDD coolers..

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Referencing JMT's drawing above, what if you put an exhaust fan on one side of the aluminum enclosure and connected some sort of ducting(aluminum) to it and then connected the other end of it to the heat shield holes on the left side of the shield? That way the MH enclosure is directly exhausted and then leave the other holes on the right side of the heat shield to vent the outside of the enclosure?<---hope that all made sense....Just throwing some ideas out there..

 

I tested my 70 watt and a 24 watt lamp in the nanocube hood with two fans, one blowing in and one blowing out with a sheet of lexan and the temps stayed fine, but was not happy because of the spectral output and shortened life of the bulb by blowing air on it. I like where chris is going with this..Keep it up Chris!

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I got 20 of these laser cut and machine manufactured coming in on the 27th..

 

I originally was going to deploy it in the 3.24 series, but with Second Edition coming out, they are unneccessary..

 

Looks like its going to find a good place...

 

 

Chris

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the master plan.... Put 2 50mms on the outside sucking IN.

 

Then the HDD cooler in the center blowing IN

 

Rear fans blowing OUT..

 

Remember the Bulb will be in its own enclosure, so we can try to minimize the amount of air "blowing" on the bulb..

 

 

Let me know thoughts on fan direction, considering the rear fans as well.

 

Note.. I usually tape up the side vents on teh cubes to get more uniform, predictable flow..

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The max results are going to be from all fans blowing in or out. Not a mix of the two.

 

You need to create and air gap between the reflector and the plastic with some heat dissipating material (ceramic...). Drill some holes in the existing reflector to allow light to come down and circulate around the MH box and in the gap created by said spacers.

 

Tempered glass will HAVE to be used. I have used SST, Acrylic, Lexan, and Tempered all in different sizes and thicknesses. Tempered is the only way to go to insure safety.

 

No air should directly cool the bulb. The bulb should be fully incased in that aluminum box. The air will circulate around the box and between the gap to provide cooling.

 

You also need to order a reflector for that box. You should be able to bend it so that it stays in there on its own by sliding in. The reflector is the most crucial part.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the Laser cut heat shield in.. Reformed the Aluminum to be "trapezoidal" and slid the glass into place. Theres about 1/4" gap between the tempered glass and the plastic.

 

Currently its naturaly aspirated, with exhaust fans sucking air out. I plan to induce air into the chamber by adding some 50mm fans to cool things down.. So far ive been happy, with temps on the water side of the splashguard at 134F. High , but not beyond my own threshold of 140..

 

Also note, this is a 2004 hood. the 2005 should inherently cool better..

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Nice, but your aluminum box need to be fully inclosed. And the tempered glass need to be a larger.

 

Any light that come through the fixture should be filtered through tempered glass. Othwerise it should not be allowed to escape at all. This can have ill-effects on a peron's body.

 

My suggestion for closing it in?

 

Use the glass you have and make a metal peice that covers the side and wraps arond to cover the gap at the top. It'd require two peices, one for each side, but they should be identical and pretty easy to make.

 

Go buy some aluminum in a thin sheet. You could probabaly get it as scrap. Make a for out of a 4x4 block of wood (scrap too) for the bend. Measure the gap from the tempered glass to the edge of the box and try and get a 1/4" overhang. Make the 90* bend using a hammer and the 4x4 wood block. Then take tin snips and cut them to that trapezoidal shape that your aluminum enclosure has.

 

By the looks of the grooves on the enclosure, you should be able to use screws to hold them in place. If not, well, I'm sure you can come up with something.

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man you two ought to be working for JBJ, they could really use someone who knew what they were doing, then we wouldn't have to make all these crazy mods!

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this is starting to look good. even tho I don't have a nanocube and have gone with a regular 10 gallon. this is starting to look promising. I'd love to see this thing done

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it's from a 300w halogen floor lamp

 

your extruded aluminum housing... does it have end caps? - would make a great ballast box

 

hammer tone vs miro 4

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