Ryans.Salty.Crew

[ryans.salty.crew]

14 hours ago, Koleswrath said:

Looks good! Did you apply any finish on that bad boy? A few coats of polyurethane makes for easy wiping when you drip. 

I will be staining the doors/top soon. Do I need to stain and then add polyurethane? I'm still young and not very experienced in building. This is my first build as my family was not very handy growing up.

[Koleswrath]

No worries, good to see people branching out into woodworking. Stain first and let the stain completely dry then apply clear polyurethane to seal and protect. Try to keep to the same solvent types when you pick your stain and clear coat...ie. oil based stain - use oil based polyurethane; or water based stain - use water based polyurethane. That being said, I've never liked water based stain. It dries way to fast and is tough to apply consistently without streaking. It does clean up way easier though. Oil based finishes require mineral spirits to clean up your brushes and tools.

General finishes makes some excellent stains and top coats. My favorite is a wipe on hybrid oil/water based finish called Arm R seal. It wipes on with a rag super thin so you need 4-6 coats but because it's so thin you don't have to be careful applying it perfectly. Cleans up with soap and water as well which is very nice.

[ryans.salty.crew]

On 1/24/2024 at 8:49 AM, ryans.salty.crew said:

MAG KILLER!!!!!!!! 

 

I'm still learning the importance of each dosing chemical. As of 2 weeks ago I stopped dosing magnesium because I noticed a decline in my ALK and CAL, after further research I learned that HIGH magnesium can force the system/corals to use more and more alk and cal.

 

Because the decline in alk and cal were so slow, all the corals are doing fine, just noticed lack of growth and some retraction. I'm doing water changes once a week to help reduce Mag. 

 

Sadly, I learned the real importance of how my tank is doing after a frag meet up where I bought 3 frags of Montipora. 3-4 days later they now have loss of color. What a waste 😞

 

To end on a good note

 

Firefish and Mandarin Goby have been swapped out for 2 much easier LONGFIN CLOWN FISH 😀.

Over the weekend I tested - here are the parameters 

 

Alk - 12.3

Cal - 459

Mag - 1800 (Last week I got a 1785 and a 1770)

 

My tank is still a bit angry and my Scoly has been slowly shrinking. My water changes have not been persistent enough about every 2 weeks. I think the goal here is to do more water changes, I use RedSea Pro Salt which should be reducing it slowly.  

[mcarroll]

2 hours ago, ryans.salty.crew said:

Over the weekend I tested - here are the parameters 

 

Alk - 12.3

Cal - 459

Mag - 1800 (Last week I got a 1785 and a 1770)

 

My tank is still a bit angry and my Scoly has been slowly shrinking. My water changes have not been persistent enough about every 2 weeks. I think the goal here is to do more water changes, I use RedSea Pro Salt which should be reducing it slowly.  

Are you doing water changes to bring down that Mg number?   ....or Alk?   Now it seems like Ca, alk and Mg are all on the high side.  

 

What is your salinity at now?  You really don't want to go much over 1.026 s.g.

 

Remember your ideal target numbers and that they all relate to each other and the rest of the ions present: What is Seawater?

[ryans.salty.crew]

19 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

Are you doing water changes to bring down that Mg number?   ....or Alk?   Now it seems like Ca, alk and Mg are all on the high side.  

 

What is your salinity at now?  You really don't want to go much over 1.026 s.g.

 

Remember your ideal target numbers and that they all relate to each other and the rest of the ions present: What is Seawater?

Yes water changes to bring down Mg. I dose Alk, so I just cut back on the dosing. 

 

34ppm. I know Mg. can bring it down so I test 2-3 times a week

[ryans.salty.crew]

I'm not in love with the stand but it's my first wood working project with a bit of help from my gf's father

 

 

 

 

Stuck on plumbing

I have never plumbed before and don't have anyone in person to ask, I've exhausted my google research and Youtube videos. I return to the best forum with the most knowledgeable experts I know 😉😘 (Kissing ass here)

 

I drilled my return pump bulk head (3/4 slip x slip) but I am doing 3/4" plumbing all around (Should've drilled it 1")

 

I'm stuck not knowing how to fix this issue. Do I purchase a 1/2" to 3/4" conversion of some type and then put a 1" 90 degree on? 

Also how do I put a return nozzle on a slip? I'm familiar with the screw on one from the Fluval 13.5. I've heard slip x slip is the best for leaks, threads can be picky sometimes

 

 

[Koleswrath]

Nice job on the stand! Looks great!

 

Not sure exactly what the issue is with your plumbing. You say you're running 3/4" pipe so if you drilled for a 3/4" slip x slip bulkhead you're all set. 

 

 

[mcarroll]

Good job on the stand, BTW!

 

1 hour ago, ryans.salty.crew said:

Stuck on plumbing

I have never plumbed before and don't have anyone in person to ask, I've exhausted my google research and Youtube videos. I return to the best forum with the most knowledgeable experts I know 😉😘 (Kissing ass here)

 

I drilled my return pump bulk head (3/4 slip x slip) but I am doing 3/4" plumbing all around (Should've drilled it 1")

 

I'm stuck not knowing how to fix this issue. Do I purchase a 1/2" to 3/4" conversion of some type and then put a 1" 90 degree on? 

 

I'm not sure I understand.  What hole size did you drill in the tank?  1" bulkheads (for 1" plumbing) require a 1.75" hole. 

 

If you're saying the hole in the tank will only support a 1/2" bulkhead, then I agree you're sorta stuck.  

 

If you do nothing to correct the situation, then using a reducer or bushing fitting will be necessary to get from the 1/2" bulkhead to 3/4" plumbing.

 

But if you decide to do something about it, here are some options I can think of...

 

If it's important, consider selling the tank and give yourself a do-over on a new one.  

 

If it's less important, you could cover the hole (or just cap the bulkhead) and drill a correct-size hole elsewhere on the glass.  (Probably at least an inch or two away from the current hole.  Look up minimum spacing.)

 

If you're good (and maybe lucky as well), you might be able to drill the current hole out for a larger 1" bulkhead.  IMO you'll need to build a jig for the bit to turn in, and it would be ideal to have a drill press or equivalent to assure you're cutting at 90º the whole way through so you avoid cracking the glass.  

 

If you call around, someone (eg glass shop, aquarium shop, tool rental) might have a glass drill press who will enlarge this hole for you or rent the tool to you.

 

1 hour ago, ryans.salty.crew said:

Also how do I put a return nozzle on a slip? I'm familiar with the screw on one from the Fluval 13.5.

What kind of return nozzle are you considering?   In general you should be able to find slip or threaded versions of fittings like that....you'd just want the slip version, and it would probably only need to be "dry fit" (friction) in the bulkhead, not glued.

 

1 hour ago, ryans.salty.crew said:

I've heard slip x slip is the best for leaks, threads can be picky sometimes

There's always a chance for a defective fitting...even with slip/glue joints.  And of course an installation can be imperfect too.  So be careful.  Redo your work when you know it wasn't right.   Read the directions so you know what's "right" as best as you can (don't over tighten threaded connections, especially if you use thread tape!)....sometimes "right" is not crystal clear.  Regarding threaded vs slip, both are ideal in my book....just in different scenarios sometimes one is better or even required.  IMO, generally you should be able to use whichever you want....use what you are most comfortable with.   Neither should have any chance of leaks if you do it right....and of course you test your work (5-10x) when you're done no matter what, that way there are no surprises.  👍

[ryans.salty.crew]

On 3/21/2024 at 8:20 PM, mcarroll said:

Good job on the stand, BTW!

 

 

I'm not sure I understand.  What hole size did you drill in the tank?  1" bulkheads (for 1" plumbing) require a 1.75" hole. 

 

If you're saying the hole in the tank will only support a 1/2" bulkhead, then I agree you're sorta stuck.  

 

If you do nothing to correct the situation, then using a reducer or bushing fitting will be necessary to get from the 1/2" bulkhead to 3/4" plumbing.

 

But if you decide to do something about it, here are some options I can think of...

 

If it's important, consider selling the tank and give yourself a do-over on a new one.  

 

If it's less important, you could cover the hole (or just cap the bulkhead) and drill a correct-size hole elsewhere on the glass.  (Probably at least an inch or two away from the current hole.  Look up minimum spacing.)

 

If you're good (and maybe lucky as well), you might be able to drill the current hole out for a larger 1" bulkhead.  IMO you'll need to build a jig for the bit to turn in, and it would be ideal to have a drill press or equivalent to assure you're cutting at 90º the whole way through so you avoid cracking the glass.  

 

If you call around, someone (eg glass shop, aquarium shop, tool rental) might have a glass drill press who will enlarge this hole for you or rent the tool to you.

 

What kind of return nozzle are you considering?   In general you should be able to find slip or threaded versions of fittings like that....you'd just want the slip version, and it would probably only need to be "dry fit" (friction) in the bulkhead, not glued.

 

There's always a chance for a defective fitting...even with slip/glue joints.  And of course an installation can be imperfect too.  So be careful.  Redo your work when you know it wasn't right.   Read the directions so you know what's "right" as best as you can (don't over tighten threaded connections, especially if you use thread tape!)....sometimes "right" is not crystal clear.  Regarding threaded vs slip, both are ideal in my book....just in different scenarios sometimes one is better or even required.  IMO, generally you should be able to use whichever you want....use what you are most comfortable with.   Neither should have any chance of leaks if you do it right....and of course you test your work (5-10x) when you're done no matter what, that way there are no surprises.  👍

The piece I was looking for was "3/4 street fitting". I guess what I was trying to say is that I couldn't figure out a way to get my 3/4" bulkhead to my 3/4' pipe. It gets difficult when you're a complete noob with building things and don't know the correct questions to ask.

 

Plumbing comes in tomorrow and I will start plumbing this weekend! SO EXCITED! 

 

 

[ryans.salty.crew]

Question about plumbing:

 

Is it ok to have a 1 inch drain and a 3/4 in return? Or should I step down the drain pipe to 3/4 inch to make them the same?

 

What are the cons of keeping the drain size one inch?

[mcarroll]

1 hour ago, ryans.salty.crew said:

Question about plumbing:

 

Is it ok to have a 1 inch drain and a 3/4 in return? Or should I step down the drain pipe to 3/4 inch to make them the same?

 

What are the cons of keeping the drain size one inch?

Flow rate and other factors determine the "ideal" size and minimum size.  

 

1" drain and 3/4" return are probably the most common sizes, for what that's worth.  1" gravity drains are good for about 600GPH maximum.  

 

Up to 50% of that (about 300 GPH) should be visually silent...after that, there's usually a lot of air being sucked in too that generates a lot of sound.

 

300 ÷ 4 = 60.....so 1" covers all tanks up to about 60 gallons for average (4x) tank turnover rates.

 

3/4" would only be questionable on tanks that size if your sump was FAR from the tank....in that case, larger pipe would be better for the return.

[ryans.salty.crew]

1 hour ago, mcarroll said:

Flow rate and other factors determine the "ideal" size and minimum size.  

 

1" drain and 3/4" return are probably the most common sizes, for what that's worth. 1" gravity drains are good for about 600GPH maximum.

 

Up to 50% of that (about 300 GPH) should be visually silent...after that, there's usually a lot of air being sucked in too that generates a lot of sound.

 

300 ÷ 4 = 60.....so 1" covers all tanks up to about 60 gallons for average (4x) tank turnover rates.

 

3/4" would only be questionable on tanks that size if your sump was FAR from the tank....in that case, larger pipe would be better for the return.

My return will be a mag 5 rated at 500 gph which at the head will be less.

 

2 hours ago, mcarroll said:

1" gravity drains are good for about 600GPH maximum.

You're saying my 1" drains will be fine to run 1" pipe. No step down needed?

[ryans.salty.crew]

It's just putting pipes together!!!!

 

I thought plumbing would be the easier part 🤣

 

 

[mcarroll]

I'm still not sure what you're talking about then...is there a single hole or two holes?

 

Can you post pictures of what you're dealing with?  

[Koleswrath]

If your external overflow box takes 1" pipe you're fine to use that. Don't need to step down.

With the two bulkhead drains you have in your external overflow box you'll want to do one full siphon (#1 below)(your riser pipe will be a couple of inches below the water level in your overflow) and 1 trickle down pipe (#2 below) (riser pipe at exactly the water level you want in your external overflow box). You'll install a gate (not ball) valve to adjust your back pressure on your main drain line so that the water level in your external overflow box is just trickling down your secondary drain. 

 

water level is the black line. Ignore the 3rd drain. That's an emergency in case the first two get clogged with snails or whatever. Make sure you keep snails out of your overflow box. 

 

 

[ryans.salty.crew]

Need to post some coral while I wait on plumbing

 

 

 

[ryans.salty.crew]

1. 

Late night shenanigans - drilled through the tank stand after a busy weekend out

FINALLY STARTED THE PLUMBING !