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My .02

 

I don't think that this site is difficult to navigate at all, and that asking repetitive questions is bad in this respect: As with many things in life, you get out of this hobby what you put into it, and asking what pods are or aiptasia is without searching first is a sign of unwillingness to put sufficient effort into this hobby, IMO. Should there be a sticky thread that addresses beginner FAQ's? Yes, I think that there should be. However, I feel that easily getting answers to simple questions breeds lack of knowledge into noobs. I lurked for a while before asking my first question, and already had bought a book and read it before I did. Some of the first threads I read here in the beginners forum had some serious flamage in them, and that is what gave me the initiative to do some learning on my own prior to posting. By no means do I consider myself an authority on reefing, as I have only done this for a little over a year. I have read 10 or 12 up-to-date books by now, and in many ways, still consider myself a noob. There is an ocean of information on this hobby (he he), and some of it should be absorbed before asking beginner questions. Asking experienced reefers questions about what tank or lighting is another matter, I am all for it, but the real basics can easily be found easily by anyone willing to spen 15-20 minutes searching on a subject. If this is done, earnest beginner questions not covered by FAQ thread can be given more time and attention and ultimately benefit educated noobs better. Just my rambling disjointed opinion.

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Just been reading through this thread, and noticed your questions had not been fully answered....

 

Originally posted by Broodingwolf

1 week into my tank right now, my main questions that I am wondering about:

 

What test kits do I need?

- answered

 

How do I bring up/lower my pH, salinity etc?
- Use a marine buffering product (such as Kent's Marine Buffer) or similar calcium based buffereing agent to raise PH. Adjust your salinity by adding freshwater to lower and adding salt (premixed in freshwater of course) to raise.

 

What water parameters do I expect to see as the cycle goes through? Besides the ones listed on the good article on the main site, I mean things like PH, salinity etc? It should be stated whether they should be constant, I'm guessing they are, but I'd like to know for sure :)
- Somewhat answered, but I'll expand a bit. Ammonia and Nitrite levels should rise, then level off and begin to fall. Nitrate should rise and will not fall without water changes. PH will fall as Ammonia levels increase, but should rise again as they decrease. Salinity should remain constant.

 

Maybe also some lists of good stocking suggestions would also be good, such as if you have a 5g here are some good, *safe* combos.  Here are some for a 10g, here are some for a 20g, just to give people ideas?  Like oh ok for a 10g a good newbie setup would be a blah and a blah and here's why  (I'm a newbie so I don't know what would be suggested lol)
- I'm not going to tackle this one much, but an average rule of 1" of fish for every 5 US gallons of water is generally considered adequate. This is of course not a cardinal rule as there are many many fish which have wildly different stocking needs than others. Research is the best way to determine of a particular fish will work in your aquarium.

 

An ID guide for common hitchikers, like the one linked in the newbie forums right now, with links to removal of pests on the site, and pics hosted on the site, would be great.
- I agree with you, but don't have the experience or energy to create such a guide. Perhaps we could work together to create such a guide! I'm sure that many members of this forum would help in this once it was started. WHADDYA SAY? ANY TAKERS?
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Time period: any

Topic: acclimation of new livestock

 

Q: How should I safely introduce new livestock?

A: There are a few ways you could do it, many favor the drip method. The first link below has excellent information.

 

Various Methods of Acclimation - a very good FAQ.

 

Also:

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-j...cclimation.html

http://www.fishinthe.net/html/section-view...article-14.html

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To all those who are new to the reef section. All that can be said is "Read Everything you can"!

Tank,Filter,Heat,Tests,water qualty,ect.

 

 

Now For a Ten gallon setup hmm not much too it.I'm just gonna walk you through step by step what you need to know

MAKING 10 GALLON TANK FOR NEbies

 

1. Have Tank Setup in a proper spot!

 

2.10 GAllons OF Ro water remember not to add it all to the tank.because you must have room for the Lr an ect to go in top it off after everything is put in.

 

3.1 Box Of instant ocean add accordingly

 

4.Test! Over aN Over AN OVER! Make sure you have everything in the right order!

 

5.At this point the filter an the tank should be running sand ect should be inside if you dont have anything just run the tank with the filter on.

 

6.the next thing needed is to make sure your LR IS CURED!NOT BOUGHT CURED .YOU CURE IT!

 

7. do not trust anyone, when they say there rock is cured because it might not be an just screw your tank

 

8.Add Sand!... SLowly! that or fill the bag of sand with water an let all the air out.Slowly drip the sand out you can smooth it out or w.e you want

 

9.Postioning the LR! =) dont put the LR directly into the sand if its aged! you'll kill parts of it! .but if you jsut cured it! doesnt matter much! still does the same Make it the way you want it! AN DO NOT DISTURB .. to you it might not look as good but just wait an post a pic you may never know your tank might look really really nice!... If not well ..>_< how should i know! my tanks no beauti!

 

Hahahaha Well most thing you have to learn on your own !

 

But remember RO WATER!PROPER LIGHTING! READ READ READ!

 

Tacos are good! yum yum! ??? ??? :happy: zzz

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I would be willing to work on a common hitchhiker guide. I have a pretty good idea for how it could be step up. I will need some input from other members like pictures and info. It could also be posted in the Identification Forum.

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How about how to plumb a tank?

How about how to attach lights inside a hood?

How about a WHAT NOT TO DO section.

1. Do not expect fish and inverts to live in a tank that only has a HOB filter and powehead.

2. Do not purchase any livestock within a few days of arriving at the lfs and expect it to live.

3. Do not put live stock into a tank that has not been cycled properly. IMO if the tank has not gone threw the different algea blooms, it isn't cycled.

4. Do not put an anenome into a tank that is less than 6-8 months old.

5. Never cycle with a damsel.

6. Don't listen to the kid at the lfs.

 

;)

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redneckvampire

Time Period - anytime

 

Topic - livestock/appearance

 

Q: Is this hitchhiker bad? (pic or vague description may or may not be included)

 

A: I always thought a photo gallery of hitchhikers would help limit this post. With names and broken down by good, bad, & maybe. At least it will help most identify what they have and then they can take the name and search for it.

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Originally posted by Broodingwolf

A question that popped up in my mind while reading it: How high is to high for nitrate levels?  Right now I'm wondering about when to do water changes, and thinking of using nitrates as a barometer for that.

It's best not to use nitrates as a water change scheduler. My 2.5g consistently had 0 nitrates (just lucky I guess!) but still needed the water changes to remove other wastes and replenish a myriad of trace elements.

 

That said, <10ppm is the ideal range, but up to 20ppm doesn't seem to hurt unless you are keeping delicate corals. Definitely don't go over 20.

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redneckvampire

I see too often people asking do I need this or that. Will this help my problem. Do I need a skimmer, do I need to test for this, do I need to dose that. I think serious beginners (the ones willing to shell out major dough) need to buy a decent RO/DI unit and a big tub of salt mix (whatever your favorite brand is) first. Their is no problem with water quality that can't be fixed by those 2 things alone. A bunch of small changes with lab grade pure water cures almost everything, everytime. You won't have to dose anything. If anything looks bad start making small (5% to 10%) changes every day or so until it doesn't. But realize things only go bad quickly, however they are rarely fixed as fast. As your experiance grows you can change less & use other methods to keep the required levels. But never forget that clean water and good salt is all you really HAVE to have. It is more work, but with only 2 items to deal with, it's also quite simple.

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Originally posted by raggedfinfirefish

Heres a nice ID/Hitch-hiker page let me stress one thing though,

 

NOT MINE I DIDNT MAKE IT

 

Its marc levenson's hes a local reefer I admire

 

http://www.melevsreef.com/id/

 

Very good ID guide! I've been perusing through the page and am very impressed.

 

Thanks for posting it!

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When I was first cycling my 75 tank with 90lbs uncured rock I was wondering if I should be making water changes daily or weekly or not at all. Should I have not been running the skimmer. Should I leave the lights on or off or on a shorter cycle. Not sure my solution helped or lengthened my cycle period. But passed that peroid ok, but remember being worried after blowing so much cash on rock.

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  • 2 months later...

some of you people seem very nasty. I'm not sure if I want your help or not. I'm new to this web-site and I'm not sure I can put up with the smart cracks. I haven't figured out this site yet but I'm sure in time I will learn it. God forbit I submit a question in the wrong place.

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Originally posted by Blind Tree Frog

Don't worry, the jerks will be smacked down by the helpful people.

and sometimes the jerks are the helpful people. ;)

 

jeneva,

wise-cracks and smart-ass remarks are just a little levity this community tries to bring to the hobby. it's one of the main things i liked about this place. (besides the friendships that also developed)

 

otoh, hurtful remarks and blatant attacks are an entirely different matter. unfortunately, not everyone (and sometimes not everytime) understands the difference.

 

there are helpful people here and just as in society, there are probably some mean people here. sometimes it's just a bad day or a bad gene. but all in all, the community is helpful imo.

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  • 4 weeks later...
reeferboy89

oks i want to start a sw tank.I was thinkin of doin a 10g setup but my neighbor tol me i shood do a 20g. I dont think i can afford a a 20g setup.with the 10g i was thinkin of doin.

 

-10g aga tank

10lbs. LR

HOB filter

penguin powerhead

actinic lighting

cant think of anything else right now..

 

i need help on which set up to do .

 

is a 10 gallon as easy to maintain as a 20g?

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the bigger the tank the easier to maintain. but if you keep the bioload low on a 10 gal it will be ok. read around a bit on nanos and see what it takes for daily care and costs. a 10gal is cheaper than a 20 but if you plan on getting something like strong lights (175w) then you could still go for a 20. the smaller the tank the brighter the lights. at least that is what i have been reading so far.

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