Difficulty balancing dkh and calcium

[Oldfishwife]

My tank is almost 3 months old. It’s a mix of zoas, shrooms, scans, Xenia. A few weeks ago I added a SPS frag and yesterday I added 2 more since my first is doing so well and the new ones were on a great sale. They are at the top of my tank under an A80 (I know, but we shall see). 

 

Anyhoo, I use ESV 2 part daily at about 3 times the initial dosage. My calcium ranges from 340-380 and my dKh is 13. I know I shouldn’t add more calcium because it will be thrown out of balance even more. I want to lower my dKh and raise my calcium. Any suggestions? 

 

Salinity 1.024

nitrates 20-40

pH 8.4

 

Bi-weekly water changes with lfs saltwater. Guess I should check the kind of salt they use. 

 

10 gal Nuvo with small Springeri damsel (for flatworms) and a fire shrimp. Nassarius (4), Nerites, blue legs and Astreas make up CUC. Almost everything is looking great so far. Things are growing, especially zoanthids,  Acan (5 new polyps) and Duncan (3 new heads appearing). The only thing that isn’t thriving is my frogspawn. It’s been knocked over and moved a lot and I think the light and current were too strong. It’s on the sand now and I’m waiting to see if it picks up. 

 

Any advice on this imbalance would be greatly appreciated. 

 

 

 

[nevets9333]

I would test the water they are using and aim to keep you water closest to those parameters. Or get salt closest to the parameters you are trying to keep that is the easiest. Nitrates are also kinda high, might be doing weekly water changes to both help nutrients and balance out levels. 

[Oldfishwife]

34 minutes ago, nevets9333 said:

I would test the water they are using and aim to keep you water closest to those parameters. Or get salt closest to the parameters you are trying to keep that is the easiest. Nitrates are also kinda high, might be doing weekly water changes to both help nutrients and balance out levels. 

Thanks! I haven’t worried about my nitrates because it seems a lot of people keep them somewhat high. 

 

I just talked to lfs and they usually use Fritz Reef pro salt. If they are out, they use IO or Red Sea (last choice). I just checked out the specifics onFritz and it should have my parameters in line following a large water change. I hate chasing numbers like this. I’m wondering how accurate the test kit is, API. 

 

[nevets9333]

44 minutes ago, Oldfishwife said:

Thanks! I haven’t worried about my nitrates because it seems a lot of people keep them somewhat high. 

 

I just talked to lfs and they usually use Fritz Reef pro salt. If they are out, they use IO or Red Sea (last choice). I just checked out the specifics onFritz and it should have my parameters in line following a large water change. I hate chasing numbers like this. I’m wondering how accurate the test kit is, API. 

 

I try to always keep two test kits on hand for the major elements. I have Salifert and Hanna. I didn't get a Hanna for a while because the price tag, but if you are in are in the hobby for the long run it is worth it. 

[Clown79]

When using purchased SW it's hard to control the parameters because they can change salts at anytime which will change the parameters - leading to fluctuations because each brand to each box is different.

 

Mixing your own allows for more control.

 

Normally I would suggest upping salinity to 1.025 or 1.026 which is for reef tanks but since you buy your salt, that would create more instability.

 

The other thing would be testing the newly mixed SW for target numbers and to maintain those with dosing. If the LFS changes their salts (normally due to costs and stock) its hard to maintain target numbers as it will change.

For example RSCP and Fritz Pro may have higher alk and moderate CA per say 12dkh and 380 Ca,  then they use IO for a few batches of SW to sell and now the numbers of Alk are  8dkh and Ca 450.

That just will constantly cause changes in your parameters making it hard for you.

[jservedio]

Exactly what @Clown79 said, but just wanted to add you really shouldn't need to be dosing with just 3 small SPS frags.

 

Only dose to replenish Alk/Ca/Mg that are used up by growing corals and coralline - and using your test kits you can precisely measure what your tank uses and calculate exactly what you need to dose to trac replace it.

 

If you dose when your CA/Alk are way out of whack and/or Mg is super low, you are likely just going to cause calcium carbonate to precipitate out and make things worse. If you want to keep SPS, consider running a lower alkalinity since they generally tolerate a little bit of instability better at lower alkalinity.

 

You really should mix your own salt. If you must buy, buy RODI and mix your own ASW.

[Oldfishwife]

40 minutes ago, jservedio said:

Exactly what @Clown79 said, but just wanted to add you really shouldn't need to be dosing with just 3 small SPS frags.

 

Only dose to replenish Alk/Ca/Mg that are used up by growing corals and coralline - and using your test kits you can precisely measure what your tank uses and calculate exactly what you need to dose to trac replace it.

 

If you dose when your CA/Alk are way out of whack and/or Mg is super low, you are likely just going to cause calcium carbonate to precipitate out and make things worse. If you want to keep SPS, consider running a lower alkalinity since they generally tolerate a little bit of instability better at lower alkalinity.

 

You really should mix your own salt. If you must buy, buy RODI and mix your own ASW.

Thanks so much. I have 6 lps in there, too and they are all growing well. I am going to start getting RO water and mixing my own. I used to do it and it’s no big deal.  I haven’t had any precipitation at this point. I’m going to hold off on the Part 1 for a day or two, make some fresh water and see if I can get my parameters back in line. 

[Oldfishwife]

1 hour ago, Clown79 said:

When using purchased SW it's hard to control the parameters because they can change salts at anytime which will change the parameters - leading to fluctuations because each brand to each box is different.

 

Mixing your own allows for more control.

 

Normally I would suggest upping salinity to 1.025 or 1.026 which is for reef tanks but since you buy your salt, that would create more instability.

 

The other thing would be testing the newly mixed SW for target numbers and to maintain those with dosing. If the LFS changes their salts (normally due to costs and stock) its hard to maintain target numbers as it will change.

For example RSCP and Fritz Pro may have higher alk and moderate CA per say 12dkh and 380 Ca,  then they use IO for a few batches of SW to sell and now the numbers of Alk are  8dkh and Ca 450.

That just will constantly cause changes in your parameters making it hard for you.

Thanks. I really wanted to go the lazy route and buy my water, but, oh well. 😂. I have a bucket of salt that Smazin wouldn’t take back, so I might as well use it. 🤗

[Oldfishwife]

13 hours ago, Oldfishwife said:

Thanks. I really wanted to go the lazy route and buy my water, but, oh well. 😂. I have a bucket of salt that Smazin wouldn’t take back, so I might as well use it. 🤗

Amazon!!! 😂😂😂