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lets talk temp control...


devaji108

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If a heater isn't maintaining temp set on it's own without a controller, it's not been set properly or needing calibration(eheim jaggers need calibration) 

 

when the controller didn't work or became faulty- the bigger question is why did the temp drop/increase so much- the answer is the heater wasn't working properly or was set incorrectly.

 

Setting a heater to 78 doesn't guarantee 78, you sometimes have to change the setting to get the temp you want. 

 

I use controllers just for back up but my heaters maintained temp without them. 

 

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1 hour ago, Clown79 said:

the answer is the heater wasn't working properly or was set incorrectly.

Wrong.... 🤣 I'm not sure if your referring to the failures I had mentioned , but this is what happens.. so you can have the controller setup properly (the same as yours) you let the heater do the temperature control,  meaning set the heater to desired temperature and let the HEATER turn off and on by itself to maintain the 78 degrees or what ever you run your tank at. Then you have the controller kill power to the heater if it fails and trys to make the tank too hot.. now to the controller failure.. what happens is the temperature sensor in the controller drifts and starts to read way to high . So the controller will see a tempature of say 81 degrees and kill the power to the outlet that powers the heater... so even though my tank was only 68-70 degrees( inbird was reading 81 degrees my temp shutdown) the heater could not turn on because the inkbird had killed power to the heater ...

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CoralVue Aquarium Products
On 9/4/2019 at 10:08 AM, devaji108 said:

I think I'll just wait for the Hydros controller. and use my apex until we move then put it back on the big tank.

 

 

I like the sound of that!

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Tell me if this strategy sounds legit - main heater at 79 on an inkbird, backup heater at maybe 75 without the inkbird. So the inkbird keeps the main from cooking the tank, the backup protects the tank if the inkbird fails. Backup heater should be very low risk since it only turns on in an emergency, its the on/off cycling that makes heaters fail correct?

Of course something safer than the inkbird is probably smartest, but I've already got one.

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23 hours ago, FISHnChix said:

Wrong.... 🤣 I'm not sure if your referring to the failures I had mentioned , but this is what happens.. so you can have the controller setup properly (the same as yours) you let the heater do the temperature control,  meaning set the heater to desired temperature and let the HEATER turn off and on by itself to maintain the 78 degrees or what ever you run your tank at. Then you have the controller kill power to the heater if it fails and trys to make the tank too hot.. now to the controller failure.. what happens is the temperature sensor in the controller drifts and starts to read way to high . So the controller will see a tempature of say 81 degrees and kill the power to the outlet that powers the heater... so even though my tank was only 68-70 degrees( inbird was reading 81 degrees my temp shutdown) the heater could not turn on because the inkbird had killed power to the heater 

The instructions actually state not to control the heater by turning it off and on, rather the inkbird is used to ensure the temp doesn't go above or below the heater settings.

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Clown79 said:

The instructions actually state not to control the heater by turning it off and on, rather the inkbird is used to ensure the temp doesn't go above or below the heater settings.

 

 

 

Right that's exactly what I said.. let your heater turn itself on and off to control the temperature just like it would without a temp controller. Then you use the inkbird  to shut off the heater as a safeguard.. you don't want the inbird to actually control temp , just safe guard the heater. 

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