Kessil A80 fusion 10

[Tonyb292]

 

 

 

Tony, yes I was referring to intensity, not color. I go up to 60 or 65% color at the peak of my schedule. I cant remember the exact schedule off hand but its something like:

 

time | int | color

 

12pm 0% 0%

2pm 15% 45%

4:30 25% 65%

7pm 25% 45%

9pm 15% 25%

10pm 0% 0%

 

I run a shallow reef, so the LEDs themselves are approximately 17" above the sand bed. Now I run two on my IM 25, so there is going to be some spillover from each (left light supplies a small amount of photosynthetic energy to the right side of the tank and vice versa) so in a single light configuration you may need to ramp up slightly higher to compensate. Once I've been running this schedule for a few months I'll probably slowly ramp the intensity up more, however at this time, there doesnt seem to be a need.

 

 

Thanks Kyle! I'll take that into mind and pay attention to the new coral and see how they are reacting to the schedule/intensity now. As I just got the new coral the other day and seeing what you posted had me worried is all. The Green Star I had before didn't seem to mind the intensity much.

 

Thanks again!

[KyleAwesome]

 

Thanks Kyle! I'll take that into mind and pay attention to the new coral and see how they are reacting to the schedule/intensity now. As I just got the new coral the other day and seeing what you posted had me worried is all. The Green Star I had before didn't seem to mind the intensity much.

 

Thanks again!

 

 

Dont get too bogged down in the minutiae, slowly adjust the lighting intensity and schedule until nobody is "reaching" and everyone is staying open for the duration of the photoperiod. Then move adjust slowly until things start to get upset, thats your queue to back down.

[Ranjib]

I use two a80 on two of my Pico tanks, they are 3g and it works awesome. I think it will be fine for lps and softies and may be some sps. I would not recommend it using for sps only 10g setup. The wattage is really low...i run my a80s almost 70 to 80 % intensity (for 3g). I was kinda surprised to see the low power ..but it worked out for me.

Here are some closeup photos

Pico 1: fluval spec 3..mostly zoa and paly

Pico two: imagitarium 3.7g, sps+lips

[KyleAwesome]

I use two a80 on two of my Pico tanks, they are 3g and it works awesome. I think it will be fine for lps and softies and may be some sps. I would not recommend it using for sps only 10g setup. The wattage is really low...i run my a80s almost 70 to 80 % intensity (for 3g). I was kinda surprised to see the low power ..but it worked out for me.

 

 

 

Not that I dont believe you, because I do, that just seems crazy to me! I'm running with a peak of 25% intensity, and thats after starting out a bit higher and having to back down.

 

Here is a full tank shot when I was maxxed out at 20%

 

 

any higher and the darker colored zoas, the pink goni and the green discosoma would close up! I originally had an 18w skkyelight over this tank running full power.

[jedimasterben]

 

 

 

Tony, yes I was referring to intensity, not color. I go up to 60 or 65% color at the peak of my schedule. I cant remember the exact schedule off hand but its something like:

 

time | int | color

 

12pm 0% 0%

2pm 15% 45%

4:30 25% 65%

7pm 25% 45%

9pm 15% 25%

10pm 0% 0%

 

I run a shallow reef, so the LEDs themselves are approximately 17" above the sand bed. Now I run two on my IM 25, so there is going to be some spillover from each (left light supplies a small amount of photosynthetic energy to the right side of the tank and vice versa) so in a single light configuration you may need to ramp up slightly higher to compensate. Once I've been running this schedule for a few months I'll probably slowly ramp the intensity up more, however at this time, there doesnt seem to be a need.

 

 

 

Do you have PAR/PUR readings for the A80? I'd like to see them, I have only come across anecdotal comments with no real information to back up various statements.

 

Far be it from me and with all due respect, I did some digging and it looks like this is not the first thread where you have disagreed with this product, which is absolutely fine, however I (personally) think its ill advised to tell someone "You'd only fry them if you were able to submerge your light and have it just a couple of inches away from them." I'm sure you are aware (and probably better versed on the topic than I) but PAR/PUR is not the end all be all in terms of bleaching/"frying" or whether or not a specific species or frag can handle an increase in radiation without negative effects.

 

Me personally, I dont trust 99% of forum PAR/PUR readings. Its very difficult to get accurate readings, and most users (in my experience) are ill equipped to achieve consistency/accurary: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/2/equipment

I don't need to have one to know what to expect. Kessil has used the same LEDs for about two years now. The A160WE is comprised of 26x LEDs in the same general form factor (for the LED array itself) and uses a maximum of 40 watts. The A80 is comprised of 15x LEDs (57% of the 160WE) and peaks at just 15 watts (~38% of the 160WE). LEDs are slightly more efficient when driven lower, but I am not 100% sure that this is the case as no one knows the driver setup that Kessil uses. The efficiency difference is minimal, though, unless you are comparing significantly different currents.

 

What this means is that the A80 will peak at less than half the PAR that the A160WE does. Bulk Reef Supply did an excellent series of videos on PAR from aquarium lighting using a Licor meter, look those up and you should find the one from the A160W or WE.

 

The major factor coral is not just bursts of PAR, but total DLI plays into it, as well, I would suggest to look that up, Dana Riddle has some excellent articles that talk about that, and also a few on photosaturation and photoinhibition levels of some corals.

 

Also, the data contained in that article you linked does not confirm your beliefs. It shows that even the 'cheap' Apogee sensor is capable of getting very close to the actual PAR reading.