lkoechle Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Yeah, something else is going on. I have shadowing going on in almost all of my corals, my pavona has the worst of it and I have two monti caps shadowing each other. All of the coral still has tissue, the colors just aren't as good. I would frag your healthy parts and dip them in iodine. I broke a piece of my red monti recently while working in the tank, the frag got RTN badly, but an iodine dip (seachems reef dip) has seem to stop it in its tracks and the last couple days, there has been noticeable new tissue growth. Link to comment
Kungpaoshizi Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 XR30w Pro's here.. Because of shadowing issues you need wide angle lenses, unless you're mounting your 90 degree angle fixture at a 45 degree angle or such with another on the other side.. hehe With wide angle lenses all is great. Otherwise it's easy for corals to starve ime... Add some plankton food just in case. Reef Energy would do ya good. Link to comment
Fluffeh Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 For some reason I have constant issues with pink birdsnest under my LEDs Link to comment
metrokat Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 the Kat is pale. I disagree. I'm extremely vibrant. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 For some reason I have constant issues with pink birdsnest under my LEDs Not keeping color or necrosis? Pink corals need larger amounts of light and larger amounts of red light to keep their color. Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 Just bought some iodine dip. I'm going to frag off some healthy tissue, dip the frags and remaining base/coral. Yeah, something else is going on. I have shadowing going on in almost all of my corals, my pavona has the worst of it and I have two monti caps shadowing each other. All of the coral still has tissue, the colors just aren't as good. I would frag your healthy parts and dip them in iodine. I broke a piece of my red monti recently while working in the tank, the frag got RTN badly, but an iodine dip (seachems reef dip) has seem to stop it in its tracks and the last couple days, there has been noticeable new tissue growth. I'l be doing this- iodine dip and fragging. (Actually, fragging and then iodine dip) Thanks! Link to comment
Exodus Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 I think your spot on with your shadowing theory harry, I have been having the same issue with my Acros forcing me to move their locations, but after talking to a few people locally I consider to be experts on Acros, they all pretty much told me the same thing LED's just never cut it for them, they still stand next to their Halide/T5 Hybrids. Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 I think your spot on with your shadowing theory harry, I have been having the same issue with my Acros forcing me to move their locations, but after talking to a few people locally I consider to be experts on Acros, they all pretty much told me the same thing LED's just never cut it for them, they still stand next to their Halide/T5 Hybrids. Well I dipped them and then fragged off a few pieces, that are all doing great. Whether from no shadowing OR the dip, things are looking up for this sad Stylophora Link to comment
Murphs_Reef Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Well I dipped them and then fragged off a few pieces, that are all doing great. Whether from no shadowing OR the dip, things are looking up for this sad Stylophora Sweet - in good time then Link to comment
evan127 Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 What is your photoperiod, intensity, and what graph are you using / what spectrum are you using? Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 What is your photoperiod, intensity, and what graph are you using / what spectrum are you using? 55% with a 12k spectrum for 7 hours. Link to comment
evan127 Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Can you post a screenshot of the graph? Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 Can you post a screenshot of the graph? When I get home; you can't get a graph on mobile Link to comment
Marc.The.Shark Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 What's that on the top right frag rack? Did you glue a snail shell to a frag plug? Lol. That's not gonna grow! Link to comment
MikeTR Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Low alk is your problem, non of your monti caps have a white growth rim. Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 Low alk is your problem, non of your monti caps have a white growth rim. Those are new frags less than a week old- and the purple ones are already developing white rims. Sure I'll double check my Hanna Checker with salifert, but I'm steady at 8.2 What's that on the top right frag rack? Did you glue a snail shell to a frag plug? Lol. That's not gonna grow! Wait.... That's not how animals have babies? Haha just noticed that Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Bump it to 9. Done. Two 5g water changes (yesterday and today) and I'm at 9.2 The Montipora ARE growing really fast with large white edges, these are week old frags that haven't recovered. Meanwhile, the Stylophore frags AND base are continuing to recover and are starting to look "good" I'm thinkin there was some sort of pest chewing on the polyps. Should I dip again (Iodine or CoralRX) in the future or nov Link to comment
jamescstein Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 You have any limpets in your tank? My wife had a couple of limpets that were eating her neon green pocci. Damage looked very similar. Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 You have any limpets in your tank? My wife had a couple of limpets that were eating her neon green pocci. Damage looked very similar. Not that I know of Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Something is off with your tank, but I don't think it is the LEDs. Birdsnest corals are very odd corals. Sometimes they'll wither while Acros are thriving and sometimes you can't get them to die. I have fuzzy acros, cali tort, green slimers, a red planet, and several species of montipora growing under LEDs for years, but every time I try a frag of birdnest in my tank it did the same thing that happened to yours. If it was self shading, my fuzzy acros and monti digis would be more vulnerable to the self shading than a birdsnest would be, but they haven't had that problem. Do you have dosers or a way to keep your levels stable (more than hand dosing?) My Digis were starting to STN like that birdsnest before I picked up a pair of drew's dosers and now they are growing at an extreme rate. Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 Something is off with your tank, but I don't think it is the LEDs. Birdsnest corals are very odd corals. Sometimes they'll wither while Acros are thriving and sometimes you can't get them to die. I have fuzzy acros, cali tort, green slimers, a red planet, and several species of montipora growing under LEDs for years, but every time I try a frag of birdnest in my tank it did the same thing that happened to yours. If it was self shading, my fuzzy acros and monti digis would be more vulnerable to the self shading than a birdsnest would be, but they haven't had that problem. Do you have dosers or a way to keep your levels stable (more than hand dosing?) My Digis were starting to STN like that birdsnest before I picked up a pair of drew's dosers and now they are growing at an extreme rate. Yes for dosers, very stable. Recovering Link to comment
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