gus6464 Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Make sure all of the PWM inputs are grounded to the controller. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted December 19, 2015 Author Share Posted December 19, 2015 Hmm, on the BF I had PWM for each channel but only one GND wire which was the one below CH1. But I just finished checking and all arrays and channels work. (When tested individually. So it was like: Ch1 ch2 ch3 ch4 Gnd n/a n/a n/a Is that wrong? Link to comment
Horerczy Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Gnd is common on the bfmini outputs so that's fine. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted December 19, 2015 Author Share Posted December 19, 2015 Gnd is common on the bfmini outputs so that's fine. Hmm, somethings else then lol. Awesome haha Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 Well I'm officially completely stumped. All wiring shows up as continuous, all channels and arrays work, all channel outputs on the BF and LDDs work just fine. But when plugged into LDDs White and RB channels don't work. Any suggestions? Also traced all wiring, it's all wired up to the correct channels. I didn't do anything stupid like wire white - to blue -. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Did you swap the LDD? Or did you swap the LED strings to another LDD slot on the board? It's unlikely but the board could have a solder point or two missing. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 Did you swap the LDD? Or did you swap the LED strings to another LDD slot on the board? It's unlikely but the board could have a solder point or two missing. Both. I shuffled the LDDs and tried strings in different channels, no dice. I have a RapidLED Nano driver I'm going to try on the whole string of each channel tomorrow though. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 It is very rare now for a bad array to pop up. Ben had the first 12 or 50 that were made. Still test on there own but again not something normal this day and age. -Dave Any ideas on this Dave? I'm not sure what to do at this point. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Since the white and blues work on another channel its obviously not the pucks that are bad. Looks like the culprit might be the ldd board. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Any ideas on this Dave? I'm not sure what to do at this point. So I have had a few LDD boards that have come in bad before. It could be the traces. Also check the PWM pin and make sure it is soldered as well. -Dave Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 Yeah I was thinking it's my multicable, maybe something is messed up somewhere (but I don't think so lol). That would explain RB and White not working when plugged into any output, but Cyan and UV working on any of the outputs. I'm going to redo all of the inline splices to the fixture and triple check that it's all okay. So I have had a few LDD boards that have come in bad before. It could be the traces. Also check the PWM pin and make sure it is soldered as well. -Dave I'll check on all of that, I didn't notice any traces broken but I'll check again. UV and Cyan work on any output though, so I was thinking if all of the arrays check out (they do) then I guess it must be wiring or something. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 At this point I don't know what I even have left to check. BF solder points are all good, LDDs all work, and the different channels all work on the RapidLED Nano Driver plugged in through the multicable. UV and Cyan work when plugged into any channel on the LDDs, White and RB work when connected to other drivers, but not when plugged in to the LDDs. So everything works. It just doesn't all work together. White and RB don't work on any LDD output, but do on the nano driver. Cyan and UV work on any of the outputs. No shorts or grounding anywhere, no crossed wires, no issues at all that I can find. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Look at the back of the LDD board and tell us what the resistor numbers are. Might have resistors too strong for the 5V signal to push through. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted December 25, 2015 Author Share Posted December 25, 2015 Look at the back of the LDD board and tell us what the resistor numbers are. Might have resistors too strong for the 5V signal to push through. R1-R4 all say 103. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted December 25, 2015 Author Share Posted December 25, 2015 It was pointed out to me on FB that I'm using a 24V 4A PSU.... And that I need a 48V PSU. And that the 96W it provides allows 2.4W per LED, where 700mA will want to pull 3.25W per LED. Sigh... Time to order a new power supply, thoughts on Meanwell HLG-240H-48? If I have to replace it I may as well future proof it. On FB I was recommended replacing it with this, but I was a bit skeptical of not having IP65 rating since this will be placed inside my stand. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 That is not actually correct. Wattage is voltage times the amperage. 700mA gives around 2-2.2 watts each. Your power supply only gives the amount of power required, it cannot force more into the LEDs. In any case, a 24v supply cannot work, your longest series is over 42v. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted December 25, 2015 Author Share Posted December 25, 2015 That is not actually correct. Wattage is voltage times the amperage. 700mA gives around 2-2.2 watts each. Your power supply only gives the amount of power required, it cannot force more into the LEDs. In any case, a 24v supply cannot work, your longest series is over 42v. P=IV One of the equations I remember from Physics haha. I actually didn't do the math on it, just posted what was said on FB. Ah well... Meanwell HLG-240H-48(!!) is now on the way. I know, probably overkill but I can now add like 5 arrays before needing an upgrade. Can't believe it was something so dumb lol. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 So I finally had time again to put it all together, this time with the correct voltage PSU. Only issue I'm having is that channel 4 buzzes if it's not at 100%. Ch4 is cyan and blue, and it's the actual diodes buzzing, the sound comes from the V3 arrays. Any ideas on how to alleviate that? Link to comment
Horerczy Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Buzzing direct from the LEDs? Weird. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Buzzing direct from the LEDs? Weird. Yeah both diodes on that channel on all three arrays, not sure what to make of it honestly. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 So I tried swapping LDDs, no effect, the diodes on ch4 still buzz. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 I fixed it today, sort of a weird issue but I had the wrong wire plugged into the output so it was running through about 40' of cable lol. (The extra were all taped together on both ends.) so I plugged in the correct one and it fixed it. It's now officially alive. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 It's alive. What would you all recommend for hanging it? I bought a hanging kit from Dave but I don't think it's going to work for me, its threads are too big for the holes in the fixture. I was thinking I could 3D print a bracket to be secured at each end so that it slips on a 3/4" rod, but I feel like that will kill the looks of it. I think another option would be to copy the Radion hanging kit. I haven't figured out where to get the bits to do it DIY though. I could just buy it I suppose. More than I would like to pay but if that's what it will cost to do it right... Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Just get crimp on eyelets that will fit under the screws that fasten the top plate down. Then use 1/16" stainless cable to create your hanging feature. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 Just get crimp on eyelets that will fit under the screws that fasten the top plate down. Then use 1/16" stainless cable to create your hanging feature. So here's what I have right now: I just bought a 50 pack of the crimp on compressions for the 1/16" wire. What would you suggestion be for the part that connects the upside down V shape to the hanging line? The Radion kit has a nifty sleek looking connector, any idea on how to do that piece? I actually found lanyards on McMaster so I wouldn't need to make the V shaped parts. The connector to hang those though I haven't found yet. Link to comment
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