cashman Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 20H, 55w Bright Kit from AHSupply (room in DIY hood to add 2 more of these later). 30# sand ~15# DIY rocks (will be seeded sooon), AQ 500 (to be 'fuged later) 1.022 SG 78 deg F Been up for just over a week. Added half-dozen shrimp pellets and dose of Cycle to kick things off. Slow and steady is the name of the game. Camera is low-end. Link to comment
fade2black Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 Nice tank. Got any closeups of the rock you made? Link to comment
Boomerblaster Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 would you happen to have any plans on that canopy you built? I have a 20 H as well, and i need to check my measurements? Thanks -Jonathan Link to comment
cashman Posted June 28, 2004 Author Share Posted June 28, 2004 This is about the best pic I have right now of the rocks. I used garf.org's instructions. I know off the top of my head that I bought a 1x12x6 and a 1x8x6 pine from Lowe's and two hinges. Cost <$25. I'll post specific dimensions when I get home. Link to comment
cashman Posted June 29, 2004 Author Share Posted June 29, 2004 Dimensions on the hood: Top piece - 26.25" x 13" Front piece - 26.25" x 8" 2 Sides - 13" x 7.25" 2 back corners - 3" x 8" There are 2 small pieces of .75" plywood on the inside of the two sides that sit on the side of the tank. Make sure they are set high enough to allow the bottom of the hood to cover the top plastic rim of the tank. In my case, that was 1.25" The 55w brite kit from AH fit perfectly in the middle. I premeasured before I place the light so I can be sure to fit two more of these later. There are two hinges on the top that are about 2.5" long. I put one coat of polycrylic on the inside before adding the light. Link to comment
cashman Posted June 30, 2004 Author Share Posted June 30, 2004 6-29 Chemistry: PH =7.9 Alk =3 Nitrate =2 Nitrite=1 Ammonia=0 Haven't sprung for a Ca test kit yet. Link to comment
cashman Posted July 12, 2004 Author Share Posted July 12, 2004 New Camera! Fuji FinePix S5000 Link to comment
cashman Posted July 12, 2004 Author Share Posted July 12, 2004 Floatswitches for Auto Topoff Link to comment
cashman Posted July 12, 2004 Author Share Posted July 12, 2004 7-10 Chemistry PH ~7.9 Alk =2.5 Nitrate =40 Nitrite=30 Ammonia=.05 Cycle is in full swing. Link to comment
cashman Posted July 12, 2004 Author Share Posted July 12, 2004 I know. I keep hearing differing opinions on using chemical PH buffers, and how to dose kalk. It's my first go round at this, so I'm trying to be thorough while keeping things on a beginner level. Any suggestions on raising both levels? Link to comment
skeletor Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 how long did you cure the DIY rock for ? I like the float switch assembly, although I would reccomend having the float switches at different levels, so that one is a backup for the other switch, rather than the way you have them at the same level they will both be switching (and getting wet) all the time. -skeletor- Link to comment
cashman Posted July 13, 2004 Author Share Posted July 13, 2004 I cured the rocks for about 3 months in a rubbermaid tub outside. I changed the water every 2-3 weeks. I think 4 weeks curing would be plenty of time, but I was slowly gathering funds for the tank, so I just let the rock sit. I used the garf.org instructions, but increased the ratio of cement ($9 90# bag Lowe's) and substituted crushed oyster shell ($6 45# bag Tractor Supply). I didn't get any more made than what you see b/c the cement bag got wet and hardened. I had only used about 1/4 of the bag. I will probably make more soon to have it on hand as the tank grows. As for the floatswitches, they ended up being about 1/8" diffrent in height once they were installed on the tank. They are wired in series, so both floats have to drop to close the circuit but only one has to rise to open it. I have a minijet 660 sitting in a small rubbermaid container. The 660 will push the water up the 1/2 tubing to a height of almost 4', which is plenty for my tank. I test and they kicked the pump on after a loss of approx. 400ml, which only dropped the tank level by 1/8". Link to comment
cashman Posted July 14, 2004 Author Share Posted July 14, 2004 Just got the SeaChem Ca Test. Levels are around 450. Link to comment
dave_n Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Where did you get your float switches? I also have a 20H and I have been having trouble controlling my salinity level due to evaporation. If you don't mind sharing some info on your top-off design, I would really like to see it. Dave Link to comment
SaltyMist Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 About the only thing I would do to the hood is to put in some fans if you havnt already. I built my own hood for my 20H, and left the back open in hopes that it would allow enough of the heat to drift out the back, but if I dont run my AC in the house, then the tank will easily get up to 85f (depending on how hot the house gets) with only 1 55w and 1 65w lights installed in the hood. I still have to put a fan or two in mine to keep it cooler, but electricity is cheap when your with DWP (Department of water and power in Los Angeles), so I just keep the AC on when the lights are on. Nice looking rocks. Link to comment
cashman Posted July 15, 2004 Author Share Posted July 15, 2004 AC keeps our place at 73-75, so the tank temp nevers goes above 80, even with the lights on. Here are the pics I took last night. The auto top off worked last night, and I'll know when I get home tonight if it is still going. I got floatswitches.net's $6 switches. I spliced an extension cord (only one side) and wired one spliced extension cord end to one of the floatswitch leads, the other lead I wired to one of the leads on the second floatswitch, and the second lead on the second switch to the other spliced end of the extension cord. That way, both floats have to drop to close the circuit, but only one has to raise to open it again. I plugged a minijet 660 into the extension cord. I bought a 25' roll of 1/2 tubing and a 4 gallon rubbermaid container. I cut a hole in the lid to run the tubing through. The tube runs up the back of the tank and through two eye bolts. I can also unhook the pump, pull it out from behind the stand an use it to pump water back into the tank when doing water changes. Link to comment
cashman Posted July 15, 2004 Author Share Posted July 15, 2004 Another behind the tank Link to comment
cashman Posted July 15, 2004 Author Share Posted July 15, 2004 Just took a lunchtime jaunt to Emerald Bay LFS here in Nashville. Bought some live rock to seed the tank. Anyone in Nashville should go there. Awesome Place. Robert and the guys are first rate. Pics of rock to come later. Link to comment
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