EL CHUPACABRA, CHUPA needs a phyotplankton expert to consult on CORAL FARM

[EL CHUPACABRA]

1:

Hello,

Could an expert on phytoplankton please private message me. Specifically culturing phytoplankton continuously.

 

Or if the N-R , knows who post about PHYTOPLANKTON, please tell CHUPA who that is and CHUPA will contact them.

 

CHUPA needs to run some ideas by this expert before they become permanent in the build. They will be privy to the inside information on the build and plans but must agree to keep this information private until it is released to the community. All the advisors agreed that self discovery and community explanations are some of the best teachers. CHUPA, Albert Thiel, and JediMasterBen currently are providing a tremendous amount of support and guidance, but more experts are needed.

 

Thanks!!

CHUPA CHUPA

 

2:

CHUPA also needs an expert on feeding corals: PHYTOPLANKTON or feeding PHYTOPLANTON TO ??? and feeding ??? to corals.

 

PM CHUPA or tell CHUPA who to PM

 

THANKS!!!!

[patback]

Chupa, Ben, altopromlgous (don't think she's here anymore, but yoshii is a close friend, or zephnyc should all be good people to get pointed in the right direction I think.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pat pat.

[jedimasterben]

I know a bit about phyto, but as far as feeding corals, phyto isn't the end-all be-all, but a mix of various foods is best. Chupa, have you ever heard of pappone or the Blu Coral method?

[EL CHUPACABRA]

Chupa, Ben, altopromlgous (don't think she's here anymore, but yoshii is a close friend, or zephnyc should all be good people to get pointed in the right direction I think.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pat pat.

 

will PM.

I know a bit about phyto, but as far as feeding corals, phyto isn't the end-all be-all, but a mix of various foods is best. Chupa, have you ever heard of pappone or the Blu Coral method?

CHUPA agrees.

It seems that PHYTOPLANKTON is the start of the food chain, you can then feed it to subsequently larger critter cultures, and work your way up the food chain to give the coral the food it craves. A test will have to be invented to determine empirically (based on, concerned with, or verifiable by observation or experience rather than theory or pure logic) if a coral species is consuming the food. Live food will always be better ICHO (in CHUPAS humble opinion). CHUPA thinks that feeding coral is one of the most overlooked aspects. Zoanthids are thought to be herbivores, exclusively feeding on phytoplankton and vegetative matter.

 

ex TEST: place zoanthind colony under funnel underwater and target feed for X minutes. Remove all food from funnel. Imediately remove one polyp and cut in half (possibly under dissecting microscope, whatever that is) and examine contents of the zoanthid stomach. Is target fed food there? What other food sources are present. Take notes. Wait X minutes. Disect second polyp. Observe if food is being digested. Wait X minutes, continue dissecting polyp waiting, dissecting, etc until a metabolism rate for food consumption is established. ALSO measure and record all parameters at the same time. Put all information into custom coded PROLOG program, let prolog work its magic and try to make connections between data, run statistical significance calculations on the data.

 

Take this data and record quantifiable growth rates vs non fed contral group.

 

Eventually, one could dial in this overlooked area.

 

pappone or the Blu Coral method

CHUPA read some links you posted in, CHUPA forgets member's name build members tank thread, (home made acrylic tank, pan world pump, in his parents extra room that has a sink, super expensive dosing setup, you know who, CHUPA forgets)... It is the italian method of fresh ground seafood recipe, with sugar and possibly human growth hormone?!? fed to the corals and then aggressively skimmed out. Something like that.

 

Links would be appreciated as well as any info about accelerating coral growth. Including those methods. CHUPA believe those methods are focused on SPS. Is that right?

 

CHUPA is going to probably start with rare zoos and Ricordias, focused on accelerated growth, feedings, and forced mutation. SPS and LPS will come next.

[Lawnman]

LPS FTW!

 

I love me some HGH .

[EL CHUPACABRA]

Links to HGH Human growth hormone in regards to coral growth info. Please...

 

Is it legal in USA? Side effects??? LINKS!!! please...

Chupa, Ben, altopromlgous (don't think she's here anymore, but yoshii is a close friend, or zephnyc should all be good people to get pointed in the right direction I think.









Pat pat.

PAT PAT,

Thanks will contact them later tonight after work on house completes.

CHUPA CHUPA

 

MetroKat posted about phyto.

 

METROKAT!!! oh METROKAT!!! We need you to join in please.

[Lawnman]

HGH is legal with a prescription. Possession of HGH without a script can land you prison for 5 years. Can't help with HGH for corals but I know a thing or 2 for human consumption .

[patback]

Links to HGH Human growth hormone in regards to coral growth info. Please... Is it legal in USA? Side effects??? LINKS!!! please...PAT PAT,Thanks will contact them later tonight after work on house completes. CHUPA CHUPA MetroKat posted about phyto. METROKAT!!! oh METROKAT!!! We need you to join in please.

 

Zeph may be able to help CHUPA with hgh. Zeph is big. Zeph make CHUPA look tiny.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lmao. I love typing like that. I see why you do it all the time. I'm down now though.

[metrokat]

Who is Chupa?

[jedimasterben]

 

CHUPA agrees.

It seems that PHYTOPLANKTON is the start of the food chain, you can then feed it to subsequently larger critter cultures, and work your way up the food chain to give the coral the food it craves. A test will have to be invented to determine empirically (based on, concerned with, or verifiable by observation or experience rather than theory or pure logic) if a coral species is consuming the food. Live food will always be better ICHO (in CHUPAS humble opinion). CHUPA thinks that feeding coral is one of the most overlooked aspects. Zoanthids are thought to be herbivores, exclusively feeding on phytoplankton and vegetative matter.

 

ex TEST: place zoanthind colony under funnel underwater and target feed for X minutes. Remove all food from funnel. Imediately remove one polyp and cut in half (possibly under dissecting microscope, whatever that is) and examine contents of the zoanthid stomach. Is target fed food there? What other food sources are present. Take notes. Wait X minutes. Disect second polyp. Observe if food is being digested. Wait X minutes, continue dissecting polyp waiting, dissecting, etc until a metabolism rate for food consumption is established. ALSO measure and record all parameters at the same time. Put all information into custom coded PROLOG program, let prolog work its magic and try to make connections between data, run statistical significance calculations on the data.

 

Take this data and record quantifiable growth rates vs non fed contral group.

 

Eventually, one could dial in this overlooked area.

 

pappone or the Blu Coral method

CHUPA read some links you posted in, CHUPA forgets member's name build members tank thread, (home made acrylic tank, pan world pump, in his parents extra room that has a sink, super expensive dosing setup, you know who, CHUPA forgets)... It is the italian method of fresh ground seafood recipe, with sugar and possibly human growth hormone?!? fed to the corals and then aggressively skimmed out. Something like that.

 

Links would be appreciated as well as any info about accelerating coral growth. Including those methods. CHUPA believe those methods are focused on SPS. Is that right?

 

CHUPA is going to probably start with rare zoos and Ricordias, focused on accelerated growth, feedings, and forced mutation. SPS and LPS will come next.

According to some of the people that do the full Blue Coral method (the pappone with somatotropin, ridiculous light, insane flow, crazy high cal/alk/mag [500+, 220+, 1600+]) seem to say that pappone still gives insane growth without the somatotropin added. Somatotropin breaks into in a massive chain of amino acids, but there is already data on which amino acids corals can use (here: http://jeb.biologists.org/content/209/17/3413.full.pdf ). That data is specific to Stylophora pistillata but should be very close to most other corals, as well. Pretty much any off-the-shelf amino acid supplement contains a good portion of those. In addition, all of the protein in the food breaks down into other massive chains of aminos. Here is a long article on coral feeding: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/12/aafeature (and it's labelled an 'overview' lol).

 

Also, you're think of Roger (TheKleinReef). His tank threads are here and here.

 

This is where the Blu Coral method was first brought to people's attention in the states: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=971190

 

Some wicked, wicked tanks in that thread. SPS, LPS, and softies all go ballistic for the pappone (I use it myself, once I get things set back up I'm going to hook it on an auto doser like MeanGreenEyes does. Here is her tank thread.

[EL CHUPACABRA]

Who is Chupa?

EL CHUPACABRA = CHUPA

 

CHUPA is building an in wall coral farm.

 

CHUPA is looking for someone with experience to help consult on the build giving advice based on their experience.

 

 

 

Could you please describe your experiences with Phytoplankton and any benefits/ drawbacks you have had using it MetroKat

[metrokat]

Superior film algae bloom. Everywhere. Pod heaven. Ya.

[gogo]

here's the skinny on phyto.....there are many many different species...culturing most of them is fairly easy....there is no big secret.

 

get a starter culture, i am currently creating a method that does not require petri dishes or agar to ship these starters.

secondly get a fertilizer specifically formulated for phyto... there are many differing options when it comes to culturing different species. a little research into f2 - guillard will answer some questions.

the best starter book for culturing phyto is the plankton culture manual from florida aqua farms. they also supply various phyto cultures and nutrients. their micro algae grow is a standard fert... you can use many other ferts, including old tank water... yeah, dirty old tank water....but there's a method to that one.

you need lights, i use 2x 9 watt cfls.. air line to keep the phyto moving, and appropriate containers.

there is no big secret to phyto. period..

 

 

i culture three or four species at a time, feed my rotis, copes and artemia live phyto, everything goes in the dt.

i feed about 250 mls daily, plus...

currently culturing nannochloropsis, tetraselmis and dunaliella......

i have found duna to be beneficial in colouration of my petrolisthes poerclain crab. i have found isocrysis to be temperamental in culture and rarely culture it. it is a brown phyto...

 

i have been culturing phyto for years and use it on my reef vase...it is 2.6 gallons...

 

good luck with your coral farm. phyto will be the least of your worries.

[EL CHUPACABRA]

here's the skinny on phyto.....there are many many different species...culturing most of them is fairly easy....there is no big secret. get a starter culture, i am currently creating a method that does not require petri dishes or agar to ship these starters.secondly get a fertilizer specifically formulated for phyto... there are many differing options when it comes to culturing different species. a little research into f2 - guillard will answer some questions.the best starter book for culturing phyto is the plankton culture manual from florida aqua farms. they also supply various phyto cultures and nutrients. their micro algae grow is a standard fert... you can use many other ferts, including old tank water... yeah, dirty old tank water....but there's a method to that one.you need lights, i use 2x 9 watt cfls.. air line to keep the phyto moving, and appropriate containers.there is no big secret to phyto. period.. i culture three or four species at a time, feed my rotis, copes and artemia live phyto, everything goes in the dt. i feed about 250 mls daily, plus...currently culturing nannochloropsis, tetraselmis and dunaliella...... i have found duna to be beneficial in colouration of my petrolisthes poerclain crab. i have found isocrysis to be temperamental in culture and rarely culture it. it is a brown phyto... i have been culturing phyto for years and use it on my reef vase...it is 2.6 gallons... good luck with your coral farm. phyto will be the least of your worries.

Thanks!

I ordered and read that book on your recommendation.

 

Can you explain this "feed my rotis, copes and artemia live phyto, everything goes in the dt" further. Do you have separate cultures for each of these. What is dt. Could one have a tank of phytoplankton slowly drip into rotis, then have the rotis drip into copes, etc then finally drip into the surge tank to bring fresh food. Where each culture would cascade into the next so that the food was pre mixed automatically, gut loaded and then introduced to the tank? I assume one would have to engineer the cascade so that the predetor could not contaminate the previous culture.

 

Anthony Califo barely brushes on this topic in his book of coral propagation, volume one and 2. I want to actually apply it. Califo recommends running the phytoplankton reactor into the display/coral farm area on a slow drip. He also recommends the UV sterilizer to be placed in between the phytoplankton and display to kill the phytoplankton right before it enters the display so that you do not have a sudden outbreak of green water. That is why I order the UV sterilizer. I can also run it on the quarantine tank and on the display if I get a Phytoplankton outbreak.

 

Have you ever had any problems with out breaks in your vase?

What does it mean when a culture crashes? Does that mean it all dies and pollutes, or does that mean it goes Asexual and rapidly proliferates, or both?

[gogo]

okay chupa, you got me. let us do it here... on this thread. no big secrets. i got some pics for you soon. i'm dns right now, but coherent enough to make this sound legit. it's my friday nite and my wife is in bed...

you ask some decent questions and i must answer them here. i was gonna start a thread, or add to my phyto thread, but here's a good place as any.

 

there is one thing you need to understand.

you cannot set it and forget it .

you have to walk this dog twice a day. no exceptions.

 

[gogo]

hey chupa

my personal recommendation is to can the uv. you don't need it... you're wasting your money.

dt(display tank)

i cultivate the phtyo in bottles separately from the roticultures. that cope pic is a collection of sludge that i cultivated from the spoons of artemia cysts that sat for a week, bacteria laden, enduced a cope explosion and mixed with all of the above for a rich organic live multi planktonic meal.

i have a 2.6 gallon reef vase. my thread is around here somewhere. i feed this vase daily, at least twice a day. i use air, no impellers, i also recommend water changes over skimming. my vase gets 450mls water change 10pm daily, (peristaltic pumps) which is usually hooked up to a mature phyto bottle. sounds fgn nuts, but it works, and i'm proud.

 

phyto outbreaks? i haven't read that book, but if i were you, i would not worry about that. possibly just forget about that worry.

if you're really concerned, sabellid worms... a coupla those will crystalize your water.

 

 

phyto makes your reef fat.

 

if this is a serious business, do your costing. fresh water can be cheaper than running a skimmer.

you cannot grow soft corals without a fair amount of nutrient in the water. if you're gonna grow meaty lps, you're gonna be introducing large amounts of meat to fatten up your export animals. you're better off doing a 50% after a heavy feed followed with a phyto drip after, just to eat up the remaining nutes, secured with cheato. go natural. natural systems produce better show pieces.

 

this is a plastic jar that has a rotifer culture in it.

one bubble per second. it has a lid on it.

 

 

 

i empty half of it into my reef display daily. it is usually wrife with harpeticoid copepods. i use a baster to blast the culture before i feed it to the display.

 

i fill the jar up with fresh phyto. i has to be at least a four day old culture. although i've taken the chance a few times without any problems.

[gogo]

this is a clear 2 litre pop bottle with a hole drilled in its side to accommodate the shelf. i reuse bottles. i bleach and vinegar them. yes. use bleach. do not under any circumstances mix vinegar and bleach together. first i bleach, serious soap and scrub, then rinse and then vinegar water. it removes the minerals. i repeat if necessary. always rinse well.

 

i keep permanent markers to date and label each culture....

 

don't do this sort of thing while preparing dinner

[gogo]

most of the time i am culturing three different species.

 

 

 

this is dunaliella. it is much 'greener' than nannochloropsis and makes things redder. i highly recommend culturing this phyto for your reef. tetraselmis is a bit bluer, i don't use it as often as the duna and the nanno.

my rotifers, brine shrimp and copepods eat it all. i also drip.

[gogo]

if you look at this system i've got going, it's a very simple bubble lift, with a drip to sump system. the largest container i had to dremmel to fit inside the shelf.

 

if reflects your idea of a drip system.... i really think that would last six months before you have contamination.

i gave up trying to keep the copepods out of my rotifer cultures.

 

now let's start talking about phyto culture.

[gogo]

dealing with phyto culture daily.

 

i have various methods of setting up cultures. i keep small samples in jars in the fridge to maintain certain species and strains.

i often bring the small jars out and let them grow for a bit before setting up the culture bottle. to be honest, i haven't had a crash in a while.

it's good to start your culture small and grow it up. density means a lot in phyto culture. thinned cultures will crash without intense light and ferts. a simple cfl light will grow a lot. remember, it's just phyto, not cannabis.

 

 

 

 

 

don't go too much more than double when cutting up your culture. i use the faf micro algal grow for fertilizer. i dose 1 drop per 100 ml. that's ten drops per litre. the culture makeup water varies from tap water to recycled tank water.

dirty recycled tank water. microwave is the only way to sterilize dirty old tank water. 500ml at 6 mins. on high.

you can cut down on fertilizer if you use this method. i don't see it as sustainable minus the nutes,.

doubling up your cultures shouldn't occur any sooner than five days.if you let them go they can go two weeks. only your environmental factors can control the longevity.

 

you must use lifeless water to sustain your phyto cultures. if you get a contammed culture, split into as many different cultures as possible and try different fert methods. you'll be surprised how easy this stuff is when you pay attention.

 

 

 

you can keep different species of phyto on the same system, you just have to be deligent. use the phyto you grow.

i've used fresh water nanno to top off in the summer time. measure things.

secchi test. you can diy one. i've got pics here somewhere. a bottle with a white dot painted on the bottom can help to determine cell density.

[Subsea]

Gogo,

Outstanding tutorial on phytoplankton cultivation. I agree with your statement that phytoplankton is the least difficult part of being a coral farmer.

 

Chupo,

I am a friend of Anthony Calfo. He and I never agreed on locating UV sterilizer after the phytoplankton generator. I agree with Gogo in using individual containers to eliminate cross contamination between different phytoplankton cultures. If you wished to use tank water as make up to continuous phyto culture, then you should sterilize this potential source of contamination. Use UV sterilizer on nutrient rich display tank water that feeds phyto culture. With respect to continuous drip from phyto to rotifiers to pods to display tank, it is difficult to coordinate. If you must automate, then use float valves between cultivation tanks.

I agree with your focus on feeding your corals. I am not a coral farmer but I am a 10K gallon macro farmer in a greenhouse. Good fortune on this direction.

I will be following your thread.

Laissez la bonne temps roulee,

Patrick

[BattleAthletics]

LPS FTW!

 

I love me some HGH .

 

yeah buddy

im a alpha male on beta blockers

 

Who is Chupa?