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Lumia 5.1 Build for Biocube Take 2

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Going with a new lumia build.

 

There are a few changes this time around.

 

Still going over my biocube 29 though but the drivers and such have been switched out for upgrades.

 

 

Parts list:

 

Power souce:

LEDGB S-250-48 Power source

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/250w-48v-5-2a-dc-power-supply/

12V 500mA Power supply for fans

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/12v-500ma-power-supply-for-fan/

 

Drivers:

Makers Drivers (3 with 2 700mA LDDH each)

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/makersdriver-professional-grade-dimmable-led-driver/

 

Controller:

Makers Controller

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/makers-controller-sunrise-sunset-controller-for-makersdriver/

 

LEDs:

Lumia 5.1

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/lumia-5-1-100w-full-spectrum-5-channel-led/

Two Exotics 475nm Cool Blue (I needed something to fill channel 6 and wanted this to be all Exotics LEDs)

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/exotic-cool-blue-475nm/

 

Heatsink:

12" Makers Heatsink

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/makersled-designer-heatsink-kit-professional-grade-anodized/

 

Fan:

Two 92mm Fans (One was salvaged from the last Lumia build)

80mm Fan (For control box)

 

Hanging Tools:

Makers Heatsink Hanging Kit (For Light)

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/hanging-kit-for-makersled-heatsink/

6" Hangman Picture Hanging System (For control box)

 

Misc:

5"*2.5"*2" Project box (For wire Management)

18 Gauge Red Wire (40 Feet)

18 Gauge Black Wire (40 Feet)

.75"*15"*36" Aspen Plywood Board (Control Box Body)

Asst. Screws and corner braces for control box

2 DE-15 (VGA) Female solder connectors

Serial VGA Cable

2 DE-9 Female Solder Connectors

DE-9 Male/Female Cable

DE-9 Gender Changer

Arctic Silver 5

Power Tool Extension cord with Female End cut off (Power source plug)

Heat shrink tubing

Minwax Ebony Wood Finish

 

If I forgot anything I'll add it to the list later.

 

I will have a wiring Diagram drawn up sometime soon and will post pictures of some of the parts in a minute. Building should begin Monday. (I just got the last parts today unless I'm missing something)

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Pictures:

 

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Much like Ben I figure a 12" heatsink with 2 fans is best for the Lumia. Not that it won't fit a six inch but it gives me more room for my stuff.

 

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Far thicker than I need but I like to over build. My first diy stand was constucted from two by sixes and strong enough to hold up my car.

 

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This isn't really overkill. It's actually nessessary. Anything less wont hold up my power box.

 

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Project boxes are good for wire management.

 

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Random humorous picture illustrating why I chose multiple colors of wire and D-sub wires to run power to the Heatsink from the power box.

 

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Makers Drivers with controller. I pulled the little dial cover things off so I can make them all point stright up after I get the color I want dialed it. That way if I accidentally hit one off position I can put it right back where it belongs without guessing.

 

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Crudely drawn plans for power box.

 

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Picture of new lumia testing. Apparently the White LED phosphors are easilly excited. I only have the HV channel running but the whites are glowing.

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I guess Evil was right on the excited phosphors bit.

I think a 6" heatsink would have been better though. You could always put drivers on the interior of the heatsink if needed, where the leds normally go.

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I need the extra space to help with my messy wiring.

 

Also I'm gonna put a couple terminal blocks in there so I don't have to solder the Leds or Fans to the DE-15 or DE-9 (respectively) connector.

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P6170378_zps268efd06.jpg

P6170380_zpsd2ffc5e7.jpg

 

Simple Mock up of LED Arrangements. Trying to find a good reflector for the two single cool blues. Can wait to see what Milad is cooking up for the Lumia.

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/misogi/media/P6170379_zps564a9d9c.jpg.html'>P6170379_zps564a9d9c.jpg

Closeup of the cluster.

 

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Closeup of the terminal blocks. The little numbers on the plastic shield will corespond to The channel control on the Makers Drivers. I wont need any special marks to differentiate the positive and negative terminal blocks as The Wires will be color coded.

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do you have some sort of thermal compond between the led and heatsink?

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do you have some sort of thermal compond between the led and heatsink?

this is a mock up so not yet. I have some Arctic silver 5 for that.

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Oh ok my bad, and following along!

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Got more work done today. Mostly carpentry but a little soldering was done.

 

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The Aspen was cut using a circular saw. Need to get a better blade if I ever do this again.

 

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The top was cut crooked sadly.

 

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Assembly is easy just a few corner brackets with half inch screws. Dad commented that his friend would die laughing if He saw the cuts. The guy is a master carpenter.

 

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Looks like a box now.

 

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Got a little sander to smooth out the edges. Worked like a charm.

 

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Charcoal rubbings for making a template for drilling holes to mount the power source.

 

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The Template is laid out.

 

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By the magic of cameras there are now holes.

 

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Temporary mounting. A couple of screws didn't fit properly but that is for fixing later.

 

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The MakersDrivers and Controller are laid out to prep for cutting their holes.

 

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The plans are drawn.

 

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A thick drill bit is used to make starter holes for the jigsaw blade.

 

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Cutting the slots out with the jigsaw.

 

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Mother nature is tired of letting us work and dropped a small storm.

 

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Almost two holes done.

 

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Time for some electrical work while it storms. Rocking out to Deathmole while working with a hot soldering iron is fun.

 

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A generous application of Arctic Silver 5 was used on the Lumia. I mashed the stars down pretty hard but didn't get any leaking out of the sides so I'm fairly certain it was not too much.

 

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Stars mounted and now for the soldering.

 

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If you look carefully between my thumb and that knife you can see a wire that I'm stripping the jacket off of. If you aren't confident in the wire's ability to take a knifes sharpness I wouldn't copy this technique.

 

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A quick dip in the flux helps to tin wires better.

 

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Speaking of tinning. The star is tinned.

 

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A couple quick solder joints on the stars and voila. Fast and Clean wiring.

 

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I left off after this part. Shrinking some heat sink tubing over the solder joint. The yellow didn't shrink enough and was replaced with a smaller red sample. The camera died here and it was time for manwhiches anyway. I might pick up from here later tonight. If not I will definately continue sometime in the next couple days.

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heh. My flux is all grainy. But I can attest to the fact that it keeps for 20+ years.

Are you sing a hairdryer to shrink the tubing?

Looks clean. Keep it up!

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Yeah that's a hair dryer. I'd use a heat gun if I had one and a safe place to use it.

 

That tub of flux is probably older than I am.

 

I did find out that despite instructions telling me that tinning the solder points on the dsub connectors making it easier to work with it just made it that much more complicated because now there's solder in the way of the hole for the wire.

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Finished up a couple of the D-Sub connectors. Definately time to stop for the night though.

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/misogi/media/P6190436_zps0bc08248.jpg.html'>P6190436_zps0bc08248.jpg

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/misogi/media/P6190438_zpsde3466a9.jpg.html'>P6190438_zpsde3466a9.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/misogi/media/P6190439_zps7055f326.jpg.html'>P6190439_zps7055f326.jpg

 

I would avoid high density type D-Sub connectors (The VGA style DE-15 Connector I'm using is one but the DE-9 isn't) unless one is very confident in their soldering capabilities. Hard as heck to keep the solder from jumping between the little buckets.

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I don't know if you got some housing for the connectors, but I didn't feel I needed to heat shrink each individual connection with the housing.

 

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Add a sleeve to those wires and you got yourself a professional looking cable. I didn't add the sleeves because I was too impatient to order some and wait for them to arrive.

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Dude, if you're going to use a circular saw in place of a table saw clamp a piece of wood down as a guide, perfect cut every time.

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I don't know if you got some housing for the connectors, but I didn't feel I needed to heat shrink each individual connection with the housing.

 

attachicon.gifdb15 connector soldered to wires.jpgattachicon.gifdb15 connector shells.jpgattachicon.gifdb15 connector housing installed.jpg

 

Add a sleeve to those wires and you got yourself a professional looking cable. I didn't add the sleeves because I was too impatient to order some and wait for them to arrive.

The wires for the dsub in the light fixture are going to be so close to the terminal blocks a sleeve wouldn't be practical. For the power box I have a small project box that will be doing that. The Heatshrink tubing is there mostly for my peace of mind I doubt it's really all that nesesary. It did help me keep from making a circut a couple times when working with teh 15 pin earlier though.

 

Dude, if you're going to use a circular saw in place of a table saw clamp a piece of wood down as a guide, perfect cut every time.

This did no occur to me. Why did this not occur to me? Oh well the my trusty sander fixed the mess.

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Dude, if you're going to use a circular saw in place of a table saw clamp a piece of wood down as a guide, perfect cut every time.

 

 

Also a higher tooth count will give you nice clean cuts.

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Got the D-Sub connectors mounted to the fixture.

 

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Used a Dremel with a drill bit and a high speed steel cutter bit to bore out holes in the plastic housing.

 

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Used the nut and longer screw part of these to mount the DE-15 to the endcap and used longer ones with regular 4-40 nuts from the makers heatsink kit to mount the DE-9.

 

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DE-15 connector mounted to the endcap.

 

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Accidentally got a little too much of the plastic but it's not noticable at all unless you're looking at it from a specific angle.

 

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Properly mounted to the heatsink the DE-15 connector will sit directly between both terminal blocks and supply power for all LEDs.

 

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The DE-15 was temporarilly removed as I bored the hole for the DE-9 connector. Took out part of the MakersLED Logo.

 

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Both connectors fit easilly enough with no hangups.

 

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Fan warranties successfully voided. The 3-Pin connectors will be saved so they can hook up to the makers drivers to power the fans.

 

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Some simple soldering and some wire management and the fans are now connected to the DE-9

 

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Side view of the connectors.

 

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Cables plugged in. They fit nicely.

 

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Dad managed to finish cutting the holes for the power box. Needs more sanding. The edges of the holes are beveled in so the pots will be easy to manipulate.

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It's like a behemoth comming to life.

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That's an awesomely clean build!! And I recently discovered soldering flux to solder some tiny resistors.....LOVE IT!!

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wow nice build!! looks like its coming to life. very clean.

If it's worth doing it's worth making it look good. Besides this is going in my bedroom it has to look good.

 

I was going to put some cree royal blues in there but I decided last minute I wanted all exotics leds and you don't sell royal blue exotics so I settled with cool blue exotics.

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everything looks pretty good, clean and organized, except the controller box. IMO its a bit too bulky looking. would look a lot nicer if its made from acrylic.

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everything looks pretty good, clean and organized, except the controller box. IMO its a bit too bulky looking. would look a lot nicer if its made from acrylic.

I have shiny black minwax to make it look better.

 

I blame all bulkyness on the power source as it takes up a lot of room. There's an appropriately sized mounting space for it next to the tank. I'll probably redesign the Control box when I have the time and resources. I've been debating getting an Apex lite for the tank and would definately cook up something different if I got one.

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Working on the other end of the Connector. This will be hidden in the box.

 

Sorry bout the lack up updates. Been trying to find a cheap full size computer tower to hide components in instead of the wooden box. No luck finding a good looking one. Might find it later after this is done.

 

Anyways. Pictures!

 

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Locations were marked to open up for the Dsub connectors. They were ignored in favor of winging it. :P

 

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http://smg.photobucket.com/user/misogi/media/P6280481_zps3e7a67ab.jpg.html'>P6280481_zps3e7a67ab.jpg

Success! With minimal mess ups.

 

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Drilled holes on the other side to seperate the channels out for the LEDs and the fans wires seperated. Hopefully the awkward bends in the wires didn't break them when I was rigging them around. I doubt that's the case though.

 

Here's hoping I even got the channel wiring right. I think I'll start making sure I got things right using the two 20mm stars first. If I'm breaking anything it's going to be the easy to replace stars that are cheap. :P

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