Let's try and Find a Solution for Red Slime

[albertthiel]

Link to a Listing of Red Slime removing Compounds if you decide to go that way

 

And I am not saying that you have to ... but you may wish to know which ones are available, just in case

 

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/diatomand...imeremovers.htm

 

Albert

[Formula462]

Chemi-Clean smells like cocaine.

[albertthiel]

Chemi-Clean smells like cocaine.

I would not know but I do wonder what is in it ... as indeed from what I read when used as recommended it does not affect corals or fish at all

[Reeftech]

Post for a bump.

 

Are you aware that cyano is one of the few bacteria's that can store phosphates and other feeding fuels.Most Algae does not come back quickly if it is eradicated properly.Thus said cyano isn't really an algae but it is commonly listed under nuisance algae.

 

I recently had an outbreak and after multiple attempts at manual removal I was going to try a phosphate reactor with gfo.I had a 10 gallon setup with no sump and i was in the process of having one made so i held off on the reactor till i got the sump.When i received my sump i installed and it was not happy with all the extra noise that came with it.So i uninstalled the sump and the next day noticed my cyano severely decreasing.By two or three days later the cyano was gone.

 

So i come to the conclusion the 3-4 gallons of new water i used to add the sump got cycled into the water column and diluted the the pollution.

 

Also shortly after my 10k bulb went out which i had already knew was old and needed replaced and was possibly fuel for the cyano also.I didn't want to spend 30 bucks on a cheap bulb so i held off on purchasing a new 10k bulb and ran just my atinic.After that my tank also seemed happier.My corals were not stretched out reaching for light even though there was less light.I ran this for about a month and the cyano did not return.Instead of getting the new bulb for the 10g fixture i decided to upgrade to a 20 long and of course had to get a new light fixture which happens to be a 6 bulb ho t5.3x atinic and 3x 12k total of 234 watts.This has only been up for a week as of today and im waiting to see what all events happen.

 

Hope my experienced helped.

 

BTW.No chems just the sump addition which could easily be replicated on any system i only ran it for about 6 hours.Also the fixture on the 10g was a power compact.

[albertthiel]

Post for a bump.

 

Are you aware that cyano is one of the few bacteria's that can store phosphates and other feeding fuels.Most Algae does not come back quickly if it is eradicated properly.Thus said cyano isn't really an algae but it is commonly listed under nuisance algae.

 

I recently had an outbreak and after multiple attempts at manual removal I was going to try a phosphate reactor with gfo.I had a 10 gallon setup with no sump and i was in the process of having one made so i held off on the reactor till i got the sump.When i received my sump i installed and it was not happy with all the extra noise that came with it.So i uninstalled the sump and the next day noticed my cyano severely decreasing.By two or three days later the cyano was gone.

 

So i come to the conclusion the 3-4 gallons of new water i used to add the sump got cycled into the water column and diluted the the pollution.

 

Also shortly after my 10k bulb went out which i had already knew was old and needed replaced and was possibly fuel for the cyano also.I didn't want to spend 30 bucks on a cheap bulb so i held off on purchasing a new 10k bulb and ran just my atinic.After that my tank also seemed happier.My corals were not stretched out reaching for light even though there was less light.I ran this for about a month and the cyano did not return.Instead of getting the new bulb for the 10g fixture i decided to upgrade to a 20 long and of course had to get a new light fixture which happens to be a 6 bulb ho t5.3x atinic and 3x 12k total of 234 watts.This has only been up for a week as of today and im waiting to see what all events happen.

 

Hope my experienced helped.

 

BTW.No chems just the sump addition which could easily be replicated on any system i only ran it for about 6 hours.Also the fixture on the 10g was a power compact.

 

Not sure I understand it all ... did you use the GFO and say that helped getting rid of the slime? Or is it only running actinics that did it?

 

Can you clarify please ... thanks

 

And yes when lights get old and their spectrum goes more towards the red, cyanos will grow, and of course they like dead spots, and yes they can store PO4 ... but I am not sure I understand what you attribute their disappearance to, so telling us what you think did it would be of help here.

 

Thanks

[19jeffro83]

Best cure is not to get it. Keep on top of WC and do regular needed matenence and you wont get any cyano.

I did deal with a bad cyano outbreak about three years ago. I used cemi clean as directed and it worked great. No deaths and no more red slime.

[albertthiel]

Best cure is not to get it. Keep on top of WC and do regular needed matenence and you wont get any cyano.

I did deal with a bad cyano outbreak about three years ago. I used cemi clean as directed and it worked great. No deaths and no more red slime.

 

Thanks, and yes ChemiClean gets some very good and positive reviews. Did you use more than once or just 1 treatment or did you do 1 and then 2 days later another one, and did you do a water change inbetween the two treatments if you did two?

 

Thanks for some addl info.

 

Albert

[GaminKWB]

Had a cyano outbreak in my 2g pico tank. Started right before a two week vacation so I had the tank-sitter just to water top-off and I would deal with it when I got back. It killed my monti (it was a small frag) but that was it.

 

I went lights out for two days. Wrapped the tank in a towel and killed the lights. When I unwrapped the water was pristine and no cyano. I then did a 100% water change (again its only a 2g). Three weeks later it looks like it started to come back. Did a 1 day lights out. Again its clear. Didn't get a chance to do the water change yet (this was over the weekend).

 

I am certain its being caused by excess nitrates/phosphates. Its a small tank and balancing feeding is a tough job.

[pineo]

Great thread!

 

One of my tanks is suffering from red slime, due in part to my neglect and, possibly in part to exhausted ro/di filters. Last Friday I removed all the sand, and I am running bare bottom for a few weeks.

 

I have battled red slime before, and I did resort to chemicals. I cannot remember the brand, so I cannot speak to its effectiveness; but I would like to add the following: be mindful of the affects of the some of the products used to combat red slime. They often decrease the amount of dissolved oxygen in the water to dangerous levels. I lost a fish during the treatment. Run your skimmer, even if it overflows during the treatment, as it helps keep the water oxygenated. If you don't have a skimmer run a bubbler. If you have a tight fitting lid, take it off and add a power head that creates surface agitation.

[19jeffro83]

I did one treatment followed by a 50% WC and it never came back.

[albertthiel]

Had a cyano outbreak in my 2g pico tank. Started right before a two week vacation so I had the tank-sitter just to water top-off and I would deal with it when I got back. It killed my monti (it was a small frag) but that was it.

 

I went lights out for two days. Wrapped the tank in a towel and killed the lights. When I unwrapped the water was pristine and no cyano. I then did a 100% water change (again its only a 2g). Three weeks later it looks like it started to come back. Did a 1 day lights out. Again its clear. Didn't get a chance to do the water change yet (this was over the weekend).

 

I am certain its being caused by excess nitrates/phosphates. Its a small tank and balancing feeding is a tough job.

 

Thanks for the contribution and the additional details which I am all keeping track of.

 

Yes I agree that controlling feeding in Pico's is a little more difficult than in larger tanks and does contribute to more NO3 and PO4 (which is only one of the causes of Cyanos of course and as you found out light is another one).

 

My suggestion to you is several complete water changes and cleaning the rock and substrate if any of all detritus so that PO4 does not leach back into the water.

 

As it may be present each time you do a water change some of it may re-dissolve in the water, and the cyanos re-appear.

 

What kind of water do you use for top off if any and for water changes? RO, RO/DI, DI or Distilled as another member pointed out in an earlier message.

 

Thanks for letting us know and hopefully you will get this under control.

 

 

I did one treatment followed by a 50% WC and it never came back.

 

Great that is good info. Thanks for the clarification.

 

Albert

[GaminKWB]

What kind of water do you use for top off if any and for water changes? RO, RO/DI, DI or Distilled as another member pointed out in an earlier message.

 

Top off is RO/DI from the local LFS. Water changes are pre-mixed water from same LFS. Its also the place I get 90% of my stock.

 

I feed a few of my corals mysis (Blasto/Favia/Pally/Candy Cane). I also treat some of the CUC as well (Emerald/mini brittle stars/bristle worms) if they come out. I try to get all the leftovers out but its hard to get everything. Especially parts that are too small to grab.

[albertthiel]

Great thread!

 

One of my tanks is suffering from red slime, due in part to my neglect and, possibly in part to exhausted ro/di filters. Last Friday I removed all the sand, and I am running bare bottom for a few weeks.

 

I have battled red slime before, and I did resort to chemicals. I cannot remember the brand, so I cannot speak to its effectiveness; but I would like to add the following: be mindful of the affects of the some of the products used to combat red slime. They often decrease the amount of dissolved oxygen in the water to dangerous levels. I lost a fish during the treatment. Run your skimmer, even if it overflows during the treatment, as it helps keep the water oxygenated. If you don't have a skimmer run a bubbler. If you have a tight fitting lid, take it off and add a power head that creates surface agitation.

 

Yes the water issue could have been the cause of the cyanos ... but usually it is not the only one as you may have found out from reading the other messages that have been posted.

 

Bare bottom may help as you will have less detritus accumulating in the tank.

 

And yes indeed, most of the products will lower the O2 content of the water indeed and so strong circulation and perhaps even running the skimmer but in a way that it does not produces a lot of wet foam that goes in the cup will help as well to oxygenate and of course a power head or air bubbler are good ideas as well to prevent O2 from falling way too low.

 

Thanks for the contribution.

 

 

Top off is RO/DI from the local LFS. Water changes are pre-mixed water from same LFS. Its also the place I get 90% of my stock.

 

I feed a few of my corals mysis (Blasto/Favia/Pally/Candy Cane). I also treat some of the CUC as well (Emerald/mini brittle stars/bristle worms) if they come out. I try to get all the leftovers out but its hard to get everything. Especially parts that are too small to grab.

 

Thanks for clarifying which water you use ... and yes it is sometimes hard indeed to get all the detritus out of the crevices of the rocks ..

 

CUC's help of course as you say but that is sometimes not enough as if it were, cyanos would not break out if they were the solution.

 

The more info comes in the better, and right now what it looks like and what I kind of knew to a good degree is that only a "total" and "inclusive" approach will prevent them from appearing.

 

As I said when I have enough info I will post a suggested solution

 

Thanks

 

 

Yes. The peroxide was a last ditch effort for me before I would have just took the tank down out of frustration. I REALLY don't like to use any chemicals of any sort.

 

Patback ... did you use 3% peroxide or a stronger solution ... thanks for clarifying

 

Albert

[rO.oster]

I used to have a BC29 that, at the time, was a stock +1 3 X 36w PC with a 13w CFL fuge light in the back. MP10 so flow was adequate, fed every two days so bad nutes were low. Tank was about 6 months when I had a good sized problem with cyano:

 

 

As you can see it was clumping in the sand fairly well, and the rock was starting to have patches coating everything.

 

I dosed Chemiclean per the instructions, using a bubble wand and skimmer turned down as aeration. 24 hours later and multiple waterchanges/filterpad changes, it vanished.

 

 

I did suffer one loss, the light brown monti was severely receded in the weeks following the treatment, and never really grew for me afterwards. Everything else faired fine and I never experienced that level of cyano since.

 

I would add that those people with PC, T5, and MH lighting should pay close attention to their bulb age. After the treatment I changed all my bulbs to fresh ones and everything went back to thriving. I upgraded to LED after that. I wonder after what length of time will we see the same occur with LED's?

[reefdummy]

...what about just good husbandry to prevent it from ever happening?

[vash028]

I had it and brown slime algae and what i did was simple. I have a 75 gallon reef and i did 3 day blackouts both display and sump and and then did a 25% water change waited 2 weeks and then repeated. And you do so tell its gone also suck the algae off the reef. it should go away after the 2nd time. I also at the first change did a cynao remover.

[albertthiel]

I used to have a BC29 that, at the time, was a stock +1 3 X 36w PC with a 13w CFL fuge light in the back. MP10 so flow was adequate, fed every two days so bad nutes were low. Tank was about 6 months when I had a good sized problem with cyano:

 

As you can see it was clumping in the sand fairly well, and the rock was starting to have patches coating everything.

 

I dosed Chemiclean per the instructions, using a bubble wand and skimmer turned down as aeration. 24 hours later and multiple waterchanges/filterpad changes, it vanished.

 

I did suffer one loss, the light brown monti was severely receded in the weeks following the treatment, and never really grew for me afterwards. Everything else faired fine and I never experienced that level of cyano since.

 

I would add that those people with PC, T5, and MH lighting should pay close attention to their bulb age. After the treatment I changed all my bulbs to fresh ones and everything went back to thriving. I upgraded to LED after that. I wonder after what length of time will we see the same occur with LED's?

 

Thanks for your input and sorry to read about the Monti ... I guess that in your case they may have appeared due to the lighting bulbs getting too old and maybe some dead spots but cannot be sure of course.

 

The main thing is you solved it with ChemiClean ...

 

Thanks for your input and I am making notes of your remarks ...

 

BTW ... tank looks great ...

 

On the LED's not sure if they actually lose their spectrum ... will do some research on it and when I find out I will post it here.

 

So far of all the people who had to treat, the ones who had the most success seem to be using the Boyd Enterprises product ChemiClean with claims not to have Erythromycin in it but then we do not know "what" is in it and what causes the drop in oxygen levels.

 

A good way to keep oxygen levels higher besides a PH and a bubbler, and that is for those who have a HOB filter, is to lower the water in the tank so the outflow from the HOB, hits the water harder and pulls in some air and oxygen at the same time.

 

Another tip from a member on another forum is to watch your fish and check whether they are breathing more rapidly or heavily, which would be an indication that oxygen may be low, in which case measures need to be taken to increase it quickly ...

 

Albert

 

 

 

...what about just good husbandry to prevent it from ever happening?

 

Yes of course that is the ideal way but unfortunately cyanos are appearing in tanks of hobs who do so.

 

Having a sump with a fuge where one has algae helps according to several who posted on other boards, as the algae in the fuge will outcompete the cyanos for nutrients, but .... that works for many but from what I read not for all.

 

Good husbandry is needed but unfortunately does not necessarily prevent the appearance of the cyanos.

 

But as we gather info on this thread some trends come to light and will eventually lead to a set of recommendations that will/may indeed prevent them from appearing.

 

Thanks for the post

 

Albert

[bveister]

My friend got red slime and it got pretty serious (covered the entire sand bed and most of the rocks). We tried scrubbing and water changes but it just came back. He ordered this clean up crew from garf.org and those little buggers had the tank clear in about a week, simply amazing! Hasnt seen red slime since!

[albertthiel]

I had it and brown slime algae and what i did was simple. I have a 75 gallon reef and i did 3 day blackouts both display and sump and and then did a 25% water change waited 2 weeks and then repeated. And you do so tell its gone also suck the algae off the reef. it should go away after the 2nd time. I also at the first change did a cynao remover.

 

Thanks for your observations and recommendations ... yes light starving them will make them go away for sure but when the lights are back on, they may come back as several have reported, so it is part of what can be done but does not seem to be the only thing that will keep them away.

 

Water changes with RO/DI will help but that may also not be the only action to take ...

 

It's a complicated issue and I have been in the hobby for some 25+ years and it was a problem then too, and we are still dealing with it. Amazing really that no one has come up with THE solution, and I am not saying that we are going to thanks to this thread, but we may come closer and we will have a set of recommendations that should greatly diminish the likelihood that they appear.

 

What Cyano remover did you actually use ... just so I can add it to the data I am accumulating. Thanks

 

Albert

 

 

My friend got red slime and it got pretty serious (covered the entire sand bed and most of the rocks). We tried scrubbing and water changes but it just came back. He ordered this clean up crew from garf.org and those little buggers had the tank clear in about a week, simply amazing! Hasnt seen red slime since!

 

Do you know which ones he ordered ?

 

Red Legged Mexican Turbos - Clibanarius digueti

 

I know that at one time they were selling another type but I do not see it listed any longer ...

 

Was it the C digueti that he got ?

 

Albert

[19jeffro83]

Albert I was always under the impression that silicates were the cause of cyano. Is this no true? You mentioned ph and nitrates as the cause.

[jgpico]

The only thing that I have found that worked for me was small water changes 10-20% on a daily basis, manual removal and water flow. I also saw a difference when I began to feed less. broadcast feedings tend to feed the issue so when I have the time and the patience I take the time to feed the corals and inhabitants individually and try not to feed more than what gets eaten right away. I have also had experience with chemi clean in my wifes tank. It was a 2.5 gallon so the dosage when miniscule but the results were great. It took a period of about 24-48 hours for the red slime to be gone.

[albertthiel]

Albert I was always under the impression that silicates were the cause of cyano. Is this no true? You mentioned ph and nitrates as the cause.

 

Silicates bring about diatoms ... cyanos are bacteria and not algae and so they use other nutrients but not silicates.

 

If you see brown patches on your substrate for instance, those would be diatoms and those are the ones that use the silicate but not the cyanos.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Albert

[turbobeast]

I use only Distilled water in my AIO Evolve 8 and only had a cyano outbreak after my second month or so. I cut my light cycle in half. Then I used a turkey baster to suck out the red goo every day . I would end up with about 4 Red Plastic Cups(beer pong type) of water and goo each day. Then I would replace with new saltwater. I did this for less than a week and forced myself to feed the tank less ever since. So essentially my solution was:

 

A week of:

Removing Goo

Small daily water changes

less light

less feeding

 

The Cyano never returned.

[albertthiel]

The only thing that I have found that worked for me was small water changes 10-20% on a daily basis, manual removal and water flow. I also saw a difference when I began to feed less. broadcast feedings tend to feed the issue so when I have the time and the patience I take the time to feed the corals and inhabitants individually and try not to feed more than what gets eaten right away. I have also had experience with chemi clean in my wifes tank. It was a 2.5 gallon so the dosage when miniscule but the results were great. It took a period of about 24-48 hours for the red slime to be gone.

 

Thanks for the input and I have made a note of your comments ... those are large water changes but if it works for you then obviously that is good

 

And yes waterflow is important as Cyanos are oxygen phobic and like dead spots and that is also why they start in those areas and if you siphon them out they will re-appear in those areas very quickly, sometimes within hours or when the lights come back on.

 

Thanks for the comment on ChemiClean ... and yes that seems to work for a lot of people who have the problem, although some have to do two treatments sometimes ...

 

I'll add your comments to the ones I already have and appreciate your post and info

 

Albert

 

 

I use only Distilled water in my AIO Evolve 8 and only had a cyano outbreak after my second month or so. I cut my light cycle in half. Then I used a turkey baster to suck out the red goo every day . I would end up with about 4 Red Plastic Cups(beer pong type) of water and goo each day. Then I would replace with new saltwater. I did this for less than a week and forced myself to feed the tank less ever since. So essentially my solution was:

 

A week of:

Removing Goo

Small daily water changes

less light

less feeding

 

The Cyano never returned.

 

Great info, and thanks for posting it ... yes quick intervention and water changes and making sure there are not dead spots are part of the solution for sure.

 

Interesting that you use distilled water and not RO/DI ... can I ask where you get the distilled water from and whether it is single or double distilled?

 

Thanks .. I am adding it to all the notes I have. Please let me know on the water. Thanks

 

Albert

[19jeffro83]

I know the difference in looks between them. I just thought opposite but thanks for the clarification.