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(VIDEO) BOYD CHEMICLEAN EXPERIMENT! BEFORE VIDEO!


chabooky386

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I recently just gave up on trying to get rid of this bloom of cyano. My last resort is this Chemiclean and boy do I hope this works out for me. This video is a before shot of my 20 gallon tank. Please share your thought and ideas to remove this stuff completely!

 

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I have never used this product and while it may help address the current symptom it would fix the underlying problem.

 

Looks like you've had the tank up since Jan, 2012 so its around 8 months old. Nano tanks often develop issues around a year or so due to the SB/LR becoming clogged with detritus and all it contains.

 

Do you ever vacuum the SB and blast the LR? What is your WC schedule?

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I have never used this product and while it may help address the current symptom it would fix the underlying problem.

 

Looks like you've had the tank up since Jan, 2012 so its around 8 months old. Nano tanks often develop issues around a year or so due to the SB/LR becoming clogged with detritus and all it contains.

 

Do you ever vacuum the SB and blast the LR? What is your WC schedule?

 

Yeah I do frequent water changes and I still seem to be having these dead spots and blooms.

 

how many threads are you going to start on the same topic? If now you're at the experimental stage, edit the title of your previous 2-3 threads to whatever stage you are at now with the cyano.

 

 

Sorry for the many threads but, I am just trying to get the best answer possible.

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Yeah I do frequent water changes and I still seem to be having these dead spots and blooms.

 

You aren't avoiding the SB/LR cleaning question, are you? :)

 

It's usually the biggest part of the problem. Think of your SB/LR as something living. As it gets clogged up, the bacteria can't function effectively. On top of that, crap that accumulates leaches back into your water fueling the Cyano/Dino/ WHY. Usually won't see NO3 or PO4 readings, either, since the Cyano/Dino/WHY are using it before it can escape into the water column.

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You aren't avoiding the SB/LR cleaning question, are you? :)

 

It's usually the biggest part of the problem. Think of your SB/LR as something living. As it gets clogged up, the bacteria can't function effectively. On top of that, crap that accumulates leaches back into your water fueling the Cyano/Dino/ WHY. Usually won't see NO3 or PO4 readings, either, since the Cyano/Dino/WHY are using it before it can escape into the water column.

 

I always stir up my sand beds when I do my water changes every week. I might have my rocks aquascaped wrong and that could be a reason for the clogging. But, I have moved my stuff around alot and can't seem to find a sweet spot. Should I leave a bigger gap behind my glass and live rock?

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I always stir up my sand beds when I do my water changes every week. I might have my rocks aquascaped wrong and that could be a reason for the clogging. But, I have moved my stuff around alot and can't seem to find a sweet spot. Should I leave a bigger gap behind my glass and live rock?

 

If that will help your 'dead-spots', then yes, leave a bigger gap.

 

You have two MP10s, correct? Do the two flows point at each other or do they follow each other creating a continuous flow around the tank? An easy way to check flow is too feed some small flakes and watch how they move and where they might accumulate so that you can fine-tune your flow.

 

In my 12g cube I only see Cyano very rarely, and in my case it's tied directly to over zealous feeding. Once you have a good flow around the tank, try cutting down on feedings a bit and, assuming you are using at least RO water, try increasing either your WC frequency (Bi-weekly works for me) or weekly percentage changed. Cyano can disappear fairly quickly if tank maintenance is consistent and feeding is not excessive.

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how many threads are you going to start on the same topic? If now you're at the experimental stage, edit the title of your previous 2-3 threads to whatever stage you are at now with the cyano.

+1

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I have incredible dead spots in my tank, even when I had three MP10s on it, but I've never seen hair nor hide of cyano. I have more detrivores and sand-stirrers in my tank than I've seen in tanks twice its size, but I also feed significantly more to compensate. My nutrient levels are always extremely low, however.

 

What are your nitrate and phosphate levels? Also, how frequent are these water changes and how much are you changing each time?

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I've got cyano. :( Happens to the best of us I guess. Searching for the underlying problem.. New tank... Parms are in check... Decent flow... Hoping it works itself out or I'll be using chemiclean too.

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Well I can tell you first hand that water changes are not the answer. I've been changing 3-5g twice per week so that I could heavily stock (coral) immediately. I usually blast it with a turkey baster or tooth brush & syphon it out. And my 3 little fish barely eat. Phosphates are 0 tested on Salifert but you know how those test results go. Nitrates are 5-10. It's embarressing to have this crap growing. It's not bad in the morning but by the end of the day it is full with oxygen bubbles.

 

Chaeto is barely growing with plently of light... But the chaeto is right next to my skimmer so perhaps that influences. I'm considering increasing this light. What do you recommend that has a small profile that I can clip on or hang from the wall behind it? A huge floodlight isn't the answer. I'm at the point where I may DIY an LED fuge light but it obviously needs to be cost effective. DIY Led is probably up to $50 and I'm thinking half that. My originaly fluorescent that is designed for my fuge worked great however it doesn't fit with my skimmer in there too. But at this point... Whatever it takes to keep the nutrients under control.

 

I'm also considering a BRS GFO reactor. Assuming my phosphates are truely at 0, I will probably need one at some point anyway when stocking gets heavy. Especially when I get my sun coral and increase feedings.

 

Chabooky, sorry to hijack your thread but I believe we may be in the same situation.

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How often is frequent? I thought I read that on another thread but just making sure.

 

These water changes are bout 20-30% each time bi-weekly! All levels are 0 before I do my water changes. I guess I really need to find a better flow in the tank.

 

Well I can tell you first hand that water changes are not the answer. I've been changing 3-5g twice per week so that I could heavily stock (coral) immediately. I usually blast it with a turkey baster or tooth brush & syphon it out. And my 3 little fish barely eat. Phosphates are 0 tested on Salifert but you know how those test results go. Nitrates are 5-10. It's embarressing to have this crap growing. It's not bad in the morning but by the end of the day it is full with oxygen bubbles.

 

Chaeto is barely growing with plently of light... But the chaeto is right next to my skimmer so perhaps that influences. I'm considering increasing this light. What do you recommend that has a small profile that I can clip on or hang from the wall behind it? A huge floodlight isn't the answer. I'm at the point where I may DIY an LED fuge light but it obviously needs to be cost effective. DIY Led is probably up to $50 and I'm thinking half that. My originaly fluorescent that is designed for my fuge worked great however it doesn't fit with my skimmer in there too. But at this point... Whatever it takes to keep the nutrients under control.

 

I'm also considering a BRS GFO reactor. Assuming my phosphates are truely at 0, I will probably need one at some point anyway when stocking gets heavy. Especially when I get my sun coral and increase feedings.

 

Chabooky, sorry to hijack your thread but I believe we may be in the same situation.

 

Yeah try a bag of GFO from BRS first. Idk if you really need the reactor...

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Yeah try a bag of GFO from BRS first. Idk if you really need the reactor...

 

Thanks for your recommendation but do to my huge battle with hair algae on my previous setup I figured I'd end up with a reactor at some point. I actually just ordered the BRS deluxe single reactor along with GFO and ROX. I already have several maxis (both orginal & new laying around so hopefully that will get the job done. My primary concern is that the pump needs to be quiet. I've read that the maxis will make noise under a load.

 

I'm not inclined to use chemiclean on my newer tank before exausting all measures. In my case I think it's just letting it run its course while minimizing nutrients / phosphate. Additionally given a small tank I prefer to perform water changes with quality salt over dosing so that's not an issue here either.

 

In your case (due to the age of your tank), you may need to resort to a chemical solution while ultimately determining the cause so that the problem doesn't come back.

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