RiddleEagle18 Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I never said 660nm should be your primary color, nor that you even need a lot of them. They are supplemental and help with color rendition and the chlorophyll a band. Chlorophyll is the primary producer - while it is important to ensure the accessory pigments have enough light, white LEDs have more than enough spectral coverage to take care of them. Green is wholly unnecessary, and I stand behind that still. I said before in the thread that I thought my OCW were to high and were producing my algae. The only thing that changed was my move from MH to the full spectrum LED's. I was running the OCW's pretty high. WW - 45% OCW - 45% RB - 50% Violet - 50% Im going to turn them way down and just raise the blues/viloets and whites. Probably back to 10-20%. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I said before in the thread that I thought my OCW were to high and were producing my algae. The only thing that changed was my move from MH to the full spectrum LED's. I was running the OCW's pretty high. WW - 45% OCW - 45% RB - 50% Violet - 50% Im going to turn them way down and just raise the blues/viloets and whites. Probably back to 10-20%. Again, algae needs nutrients to grow. I have a lot more OCW (and light total) over my tank and I don't have algae issues. Link to comment
RiddleEagle18 Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I'd remove the green and red chips. I miss read the post leading up to this post. I ddint understand why you were saying this but advocating OCW. I see the difference now. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I miss read the post leading up to this post. I ddint understand why you were saying this but advocating OCW. I see the difference now. Gotcha. Link to comment
bendel Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Chlorophyll is the primary producer - while it is important to ensure the accessory pigments have enough light, white LEDs have more than enough spectral coverage to take care of them. Green is wholly unnecessary, and I stand behind that still. Why then are not all corals green like plants? Link to comment
GHill762 Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Why then are not all corals green like plants? all plants are not green.. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Why then are not all corals green like plants? Zooxanthellae are not even green. They are brownish in color, as they don't only contain chlorophyll, they contain several different photosynthetic pigments. Take a look at this chart: If we have a single zoox that contains chlorophyll a and peridinin, we'd mix green and brick red to get brown. This is why when corals are not getting enough light or are subjected to increased nutrient levels, they 'brown out' from the population of zooxanthellae increasing. Link to comment
AlanM Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 This is why when corals are not getting enough light or are subjected to increased nutrient levels, they 'brown out' from the population of zooxanthellae increasing. This makes so much sense. I'm still researching setting up my first tank, and I feel like I've learned a ton from this thread and the various full spectrum ones on this forum. Largely from uglybuckling, jedimasterben and Milad. Thanks for all of the info in this forum, folks. 1 Link to comment
GHill762 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Here are a few pics.. not the best pics but figured I'd share... still in the process of getting everything use to LED, I started pretty low, so my SPS lost some color, but they are coloring up again.. also, still figuring out how to take pics under LED, these colors look washed out and bland on a computer screen, but on my galaxy phone they are much more vibrant and true to what they actually look like. Link to comment
GHill762 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 also, the frogspawn LOOKS like it's bleaching and transparent in this photo, believe me it's not.. it is simply more inflated than I ever saw under t5ho.. it is really responding well to the LEDs.. it's color hasn't really changed much for better or worse, but it seems happier and healthier with the LED.. here is another photo that illustrates what I mean about it opening up so much.. all three heads fully extend just like this.. never had that under t5ho.. Link to comment
bendel Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Even at 15m depth, corals are still blasted with 52W/m2 of 400-440nm light, and 60W/m2 of 440-480nm light. [...] Where I got the numbers from in nature: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature Well, you should not use that article. They got the math quite wrong. Obviously the light falls off exponentially with depth, not linear. So if you have 1% intensity at 150m, you get around 63% at 15m (=(0.01)^(15/150), not 90%. Link to comment
eklikewhoa Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 What configuration would get close to that of 20k MH? I'm running 10x 3w over my Fluval SpecV right now and not liking what it's doing to my Maxi-Minis which is all I have in there. Right now I am running... 2x royal blue 2x cool blue 2x natural white 2x cool white 2x true violet all are staggered/alternating but on a straight strip down the length of the tank. I think the addition of a OCW would solve my problem since the oranges/purples/blacks are not as deep as they use to be. If anyone can suggest some help with pushing my tank into the "full spectrum" category it would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment
eklikewhoa Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Here's a pic of the above... the brown/orange maxi in the middle of the picture is suppose to be a much brighter orange. *edited... I think I figured it out or made a decision, lmk what you guys think 2x 3up 2RB/1NW 1x OCW 1x TV Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Well, you should not use that article. They got the math quite wrong. Obviously the light falls off exponentially with depth, not linear. So if you have 1% intensity at 150m, you get around 63% at 15m (=(0.01)^(15/150), not 90%. Any data to back that up? Link to comment
Trooper46 Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 I am looking at starting a DIY full spectrum build for my new tank and I was wondering if you guys could take a quick look at my led plan. Tank is a custom 20 gallon. 24L 16W 12H. 8 Royal Blue 4 Cool Blue 6 Neutral White 2 Violet 2 Cyan 2 Deep Red Link to comment
GHill762 Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Any data to back that up?he said "obviously" which means he doesn't need any. . Lol. . Isn't it obvious? 1 Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 he said "obviously" which means he doesn't need any. . Lol. . Isn't it obvious? Painfully so. lol Link to comment
bendel Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Painfully so. lol So are we good? I first wondered, why in one chart the intensitity for some wavelength went to zero, but did not cared much. Then I saw the 400-440nm numbers that seemed familar (because they were the same you are mentioning in this thread) and that I suspected to be to high (because my calculated numbers are lower). And then I checked what they did... Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 So are we good? I first wondered, why in one chart the intensitity for some wavelength went to zero, but did not cared much. Then I saw the 400-440nm numbers that seemed familar (because they were the same you are mentioning in this thread) and that I suspected to be to high (because my calculated numbers are lower). And then I checked what they did... ...what? I was asking for data to explain how they went wrong. Link to comment
bendel Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 ...what? I was asking for data to explain how they went wrong. OK, I thought that really was obvious now. Well something then, take something like http://ap.physik.unibas.ch/PDF/Manuals/English/Experiment_52.pdf (Especially point 1.3.1) or any other basic physics introduction (that is really elementary stuff we are talking here.) Link to comment
AlanM Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 OK, I thought that really was obvious now. Well something then, take something like http://ap.physik.unibas.ch/PDF/Manuals/English/Experiment_52.pdf]http://ap.physik.unibas.ch/PDF/Manuals/English/Experiment_52.pdf[/url] (Especially point 1.3.1) or any other basic physics introduction (that is really elementary stuff we are talking here.) I think he's right that they got the math wrong. It should decay exponentially, not linearly like they assumed, and the decay coefficient is wavelength dependent. They kind of get that coefficient by looking at the graph of depths to 1% intensity, but the math needs fixing. See also http://www.unesco.org/csi/pub/source/rs10.htm Link to comment
cichlidboi Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Hi y'all looking to build a full spectrum led for my for my new 40"Lx20"Wx20"H tank, I'm planning on a mixed reef with a couple of softies LPS and a few SPS so was looking at using 58 leds: 10 x cree XT-E 3ups (2 royal blue: 1 neutral white) 2 x luxeon rebels cool blue 6 x luxeon rebels OCW 3ups (deep red,cool blue,turqouise) 8 violets (4 x true violet and 4 x hyper violet) These leds i want to drive as follows: 10 neutral whites at (1000 mA) 12 royal blue at (1000mA) 6 cool blue + 6 royal blue at (700 mA) 6 deep red + 6 turquoise at (700 mA) 8 violets + 2 cool blue + 2 royal blue at (700 mA) Just a few questions 1. Want to keep the lighting about 7-8" above water with out optics, will these this be sufficient lighting for mix reef of my tank size? 2.What heatsink size i should use for good heat dissipation if i intend to use clusters?Was thinking 28" . 3.Trying to get a crisp 12000-14000k look,would the ratio of leds archieve this? Link to comment
Adrnalnrsh Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 They are the 5000K. There are no optics available for 3ups, so if your build will need optics, you'll need to get them on single stars. Actually a bit cheaper, too. I'll be testing out the new Luxeon M in both 5000K and royal blue when I move my tank. It will be a couple of weeks before I can get them in, but I've got pretty high expectations. Get them yet? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 No - Chinese new year held up getting the MCPCB for them. That ended on the 18th, I think, so hopefully they will be back to work already Link to comment
Adrnalnrsh Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Milad, Jedi. Do you think optics are needed for 90 galllon 25" deep? I like to have SPS starting at around 8-9" from the bottom. I'd prefer around 200 par or so at the bottom of the tank with perhaps sides being around 100-150 at the very least. Link to comment
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