LED Aesthetics: What do you really think of your color?

[skunker]

Try putting one Blue in the middle with a larger optic. The blues can become VERY overpowering when being driven at high mA. Most places wont have XPG NW unless you ask for them. Try nanotuners or go direct with ETG. Problem with ETG is they have a $75 minimum.

 

-Dave

 

-Dave

Dave,

How do you order from ETG? Do you have to contact them through their website?

http://www.etgtech.com/2006/html/contact.htm

[DaveFason]

You have to call them. I swear that they NEVER get back to emails unless you go with someone direct.

 

Anna has always helped me. You need to be prepared to know the binning and labeling for the LED that you are looking for. Also you will have to spend more than $75.

 

-Dave

[AlanStanwyk]

Read this entire thread but still cant figure out what the consensus is(or if ones been reached.) I have a 36 LED DIY kit, (2 RB to 1 CW ratio).Would have to agree that the color seems to be lacking something. Advice on what to add seems to be all over the place, from Cyan, to TV, Red, NW and CB...I have room on the heatsink to add some stars, just wanna make sure I go with the right combo-heres a pic, any suggestions? thanks in advance.

[Hans Dorn]

Neutral white would be your safest bet.

[AlanStanwyk]

Neutral white would be your safest bet.

NW instead of CW, or in addition to? how many would you add and where in the configuration? Thanks for reply

[Hans Dorn]

I'd probably add some NW and put them on a dimmable driver. I still run a RB/CW combo so can't tell you first hand how many. Maybe wait for blasterman to chime in.

 

I'd guess 4 or 6 would be plenty.

[AlanStanwyk]

I'd probably add some NW and put them on a dimmable driver. I still run a RB/CW combo so can't tell you first hand how many. Maybe wait for blasterman to chime in.

 

I'd guess 4 or 6 would be plenty.

Thanks. Any benefit from Cyan, TV, CB etc?

[joelsaxton]

NW instead of CW, or in addition to? how many would you add and where in the configuration? Thanks for reply

 

2 royal blues for every cool white sounds too blue to me, but it's your call. I'd go with 2 royal blues for every neutral white, then run them on separate drivers so you can adjust the color.

[JSVAND5]

NW instead of CW, or in addition to? how many would you add and where in the configuration? Thanks for reply

 

 

You could always go with a combo. I don't have the light in yet so I really have no clue if it will be a good setup but I ended up going with 18 RB's, 8 NW's, an 4 CW's. I should have it in about a week I think so I could be more help then. I am hoping a 3:2 blue to white ratio will look nice.

[DaveFason]

To me cool white is really on good for making it looking REALLY bright. The ratio of 2:1 RB to blue is almost a sure bet to make your tank look great. Adding a Blue here and there just makes it that much better.

 

After this entire thread is there anyone besides myself and blaster that only uses the combo of 2:1 RB:NW?

 

-Dave

[DaveFason]

After a ton of testing here are some conclusions that I have found with certain colors...

 

Cool White - Was a standard until NW was tested. Very bright and efficient but dull in warmer colors.

Neutral White - The new standard for white ( In my opinion ). A much more natural color that brings out warmer colors. Best with matching a 2:1 ratio with royal blues.

Warm Whites - VERY warm. Some people have used them here and there but not very effectively. Blaster stated mixing a 3:1 ( RB:WW ) ratio will bring out the Willy Wonka in you.

Royal Blue - A must have. When your working with cool white or neutral white is the go to blue.

Cool Blue A.K.A Blue - On the greener/blue side but very effective if used right. Mixing to many in an array will turn the tank into a box of Windex. These bring out the colors the neutral white and royal blues wont. Be careful on how high you run these as they do a extremely good job on the blue color. You can also skip the optics on blues to get the entire tank covered from my testings. Blue will blend very well with NW/RB.

Cyan - VERY green unless you are able to choose your exact binning. They can bring some wicked colors out but leave an awful green shadow everywhere. Even when clustered closely I would not recommend these to the average DIYer.

Red - Forget about it. Let the neutral whites do their job.

True Violet - Have not tested these and probably wont. I've heard some good things about them.

 

Combos and ratios that have worked for me.

 

12 LED Array

4 - Neutral White ( Running higher than the blues )

7 - Royal Blue

1 - Blue/Cool Blue

 

24 LED Array

8 - Neutral Whites ( Running higher than blues )

14 - Royal Blues

2 - Blues/Cool Blues

 

Hope this helps. Again this my opinion after doing hundreds of testings.

 

-Dave

[jfarabaugh]

After a ton of testing here are some conclusions that I have found with certain colors...

 

Cool White - Was a standard until NW was tested. Very bright and efficient but dull in warmer colors.

Neutral White - The new standard for white ( In my opinion ). A much more natural color that brings out warmer colors. Best with matching a 2:1 ratio with royal blues.

Warm Whites - VERY warm. Some people have used them here and there but not very effectively. Blaster stated mixing a 3:1 ( RB:WW ) ratio will bring out the Willy Wonka in you.

Royal Blue - A must have. When your working with cool white or neutral white is the go to blue.

Cool Blue A.K.A Blue - On the greener/blue side but very effective if used right. Mixing to many in an array will turn the tank into a box of Windex. These bring out the colors the neutral white and royal blues wont. Be careful on how high you run these as they do a extremely good job on the blue color. You can also skip the optics on blues to get the entire tank covered from my testings. Blue will blend very well with NW/RB.

Cyan - VERY green unless you are able to choose your exact binning. They can bring some wicked colors out but leave an awful green shadow everywhere. Even when clustered closely I would not recommend these to the average DIYer.

Red - Forget about it. Let the neutral whites do their job.

True Violet - Have not tested these and probably wont. I've heard some good things about them.

 

Combos and ratios that have worked for me.

 

12 LED Array

4 - Neutral White ( Running higher than the blues )

7 - Royal Blue

1 - Blue/Cool Blue

 

24 LED Array

8 - Neutral Whites ( Running higher than blues )

14 - Royal Blues

2 - Blues/Cool Blues

 

Hope this helps. Again this my opinion after doing hundreds of testings.

 

-Dave

 

Pictures? Even if not captured at 100% of what you are seeing?

[DaveFason]

If you look a few pages back I snapped a TON of different photo's.

 

-Dave

[AlanStanwyk]

2 royal blues for every cool white sounds too blue to me, but it's your call. I'd go with 2 royal blues for every neutral white, then run them on separate drivers so you can adjust the color.

 

Even though its 2:1 the CW definitely dominate the color in the tank when running at capacity-theres only a faint shimmer of blue when the CW are turned up to 750mA @ 9v.Im not worried about the ratio of RB to CW, more just trying to find what the consensus is from those in the know on what to add to get some more colors popping.

 

After a ton of testing here are some conclusions that I have found with certain colors...

 

Cool White - Was a standard until NW was tested. Very bright and efficient but dull in warmer colors.

Neutral White - The new standard for white ( In my opinion ). A much more natural color that brings out warmer colors. Best with matching a 2:1 ratio with royal blues.

Warm Whites - VERY warm. Some people have used them here and there but not very effectively. Blaster stated mixing a 3:1 ( RB:WW ) ratio will bring out the Willy Wonka in you.

Royal Blue - A must have. When your working with cool white or neutral white is the go to blue.

Cool Blue A.K.A Blue - On the greener/blue side but very effective if used right. Mixing to many in an array will turn the tank into a box of Windex. These bring out the colors the neutral white and royal blues wont. Be careful on how high you run these as they do a extremely good job on the blue color. You can also skip the optics on blues to get the entire tank covered from my testings. Blue will blend very well with NW/RB.

Cyan - VERY green unless you are able to choose your exact binning. They can bring some wicked colors out but leave an awful green shadow everywhere. Even when clustered closely I would not recommend these to the average DIYer.

Red - Forget about it. Let the neutral whites do their job.

True Violet - Have not tested these and probably wont. I've heard some good things about them.

Thanks dude-you think Ill be able to get away with leaving the RB and CW configuration as is, and just add some sporadic NW and CB? or are people leaning towards replacing CW entirely?

[Hans Dorn]

Are your cool whites on a dimmable driver? That would be easiest because you could just turn them down a bit and add NW to your liking.

[evilc66]

For everyone asking about the True Violets:

 

Unless these are used in large quantities, they will not have a major impact on the visual appearance of the light. You may notice a slight increase in the pop of certain colors, but it will be subtle at best, and certainly won't add a purple cast to the light. As of right now, I'm sure that many of you would be asking what the point is then. The point is that they hit a different portion of the photosynthetic action spectra than the other LEDs do that emit light in the blue range (white LEDs, royal blue, blue, etc...). As a result, you get more usable PAR in an area that could promote more growth than we see with our typical setups. Now, even though these LEDs are only run at a max of 500mA, they are powerful LEDs, and should be used with a little caution. Until we find out otherwise, I'd say that these LEDs should be used in quantities no more than 1 TV for every 4-6 primary LEDs (whites and royal blues) on a fixed output driver. On dimmable drivers, you can use more, but I would use a PAR meter to make sure things aren't going overboard.

[roushinator]

Good info... Joining in

[Machupicchu]

What do you guys think. Is this enough RB to NW to get wonkafied if i tweak with the dimming.

Also is it too much CB.

 

This is a 12x12 square, ignore the rulers in the picture.

[fishfanatic88]

would it be ok to put on one driver 10rb and 2 cb and on the other driver 7cw and 5nw both dimmable seperatly but just by color

[evilc66]

Sure.

[Wawawang]

After a ton of testing here are some conclusions that I have found with certain colors...

 

Cool White - Was a standard until NW was tested. Very bright and efficient but dull in warmer colors.

Neutral White - The new standard for white ( In my opinion ). A much more natural color that brings out warmer colors. Best with matching a 2:1 ratio with royal blues.

Warm Whites - VERY warm. Some people have used them here and there but not very effectively. Blaster stated mixing a 3:1 ( RB:WW ) ratio will bring out the Willy Wonka in you.

Royal Blue - A must have. When your working with cool white or neutral white is the go to blue.

Cool Blue A.K.A Blue - On the greener/blue side but very effective if used right. Mixing to many in an array will turn the tank into a box of Windex. These bring out the colors the neutral white and royal blues wont. Be careful on how high you run these as they do a extremely good job on the blue color. You can also skip the optics on blues to get the entire tank covered from my testings. Blue will blend very well with NW/RB.

Cyan - VERY green unless you are able to choose your exact binning. They can bring some wicked colors out but leave an awful green shadow everywhere. Even when clustered closely I would not recommend these to the average DIYer.

Red - Forget about it. Let the neutral whites do their job.

True Violet - Have not tested these and probably wont. I've heard some good things about them.

 

Combos and ratios that have worked for me.

 

12 LED Array

4 - Neutral White ( Running higher than the blues )

7 - Royal Blue

1 - Blue/Cool Blue

 

24 LED Array

8 - Neutral Whites ( Running higher than blues )

14 - Royal Blues

2 - Blues/Cool Blues

 

Hope this helps. Again this my opinion after doing hundreds of testings.

 

-Dave

 

I might try the 12 led setup on my pico. Thanks for this post.

[dhraakoxr]

For everyone asking about the True Violets:

 

Unless these are used in large quantities, they will not have a major impact on the visual appearance of the light. You may notice a slight increase in the pop of certain colors, but it will be subtle at best, and certainly won't add a purple cast to the light. As of right now, I'm sure that many of you would be asking what the point is then. The point is that they hit a different portion of the photosynthetic action spectra than the other LEDs do that emit light in the blue range (white LEDs, royal blue, blue, etc...). As a result, you get more usable PAR in an area that could promote more growth than we see with our typical setups. Now, even though these LEDs are only run at a max of 500mA, they are powerful LEDs, and should be used with a little caution. Until we find out otherwise, I'd say that these LEDs should be used in quantities no more than 1 TV for every 4-6 primary LEDs (whites and royal blues) on a fixed output driver. On dimmable drivers, you can use more, but I would use a PAR meter to make sure things aren't going overboard.

 

Thanks man, I just soldered in the 2 TVs and the 2NW's last night and had it all working over the JBJ last night. I ended up removing 2 CB out of my 5 and placed the TVs there then removed 2 of my five CWs for the NWs which is seeming to work well. I can see violet in my tank if I only have the CB/TV string running but it's only a violet colour hue on like 20 percent of my rock work nothing more. All in all i'm stoked to see how the NWs and TVs effect the coral coloration and health over time as I didn't see any immediate colour pop change .. but I didn't really expect one with only two haha. I'll do some more looking tonight and tomorrow as the corals adjust. Just need to figure out what intensities to run ugh.

[Genj]

Got everything wired up last night and I have to admit, I'm VERY concerned with color shadows. I haven't had it over the tank yet; however right now when pointing up to the ceiling from the work surface, and object over it creates horrid shadows.

 

Please tell me this goes away in water... of am I going to need to sand the acrylic some?

[evilc66]

It will become less noticable once you put it over the tank, as the moving water surface helps diffuse things a little more, but they will still be there. It's really unavoidable when using multiple discrete color light sources. The closer you get the colors together, the less pronounced it will be, but it will still be there.

[Genj]

If it is a real problem, I'm going to work with a friend on sourcing a micropattern diffuser that should help blend it somewhat. He works with screen design for LED backlit flat panels and always has samples laying around.