nitrofish1 Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Where is the best place to buy live rock? im looking for some for my 12 gallon nanocube. its also been suggested to me to have it shipped overnight? according to the pinned thread under this subforum. they also state that they placed the live rock directly in the tank? doesnt sound right to me... thanks nitro Link to comment
Jacobnano Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Sealifeinc is probably the most diverse live rock. And yes you put it directly into the tank. Link to comment
nitrofish1 Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share Posted October 3, 2009 you are darn fast jacob lol. ok so walk me through this...... (im a noob sorry) i order the live rock pick off the dead stuff put it in the tank (which has been running for a few days with SW in it) let the tank cycle, and pick off pests if i see them to be pests (lighting on regular timed cycle?)(weekly water changes?) add other inverts after cycling (which means ill let it sit for a month or so) and tank is all set up and awesome? Link to comment
nanoreefnate Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Premium Aquatics IMO has the best stuff. especially their Timpora and Alor rock. Link to comment
Jacobnano Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 you are darn fast jacob lol. ok so walk me through this...... (im a noob sorry) i order the live rock pick off the dead stuff put it in the tank (which has been running for a few days with SW in it) let the tank cycle, and pick off pests if i see them to be pests (lighting on regular timed cycle?)(weekly water changes?) add other inverts after cycling (which means ill let it sit for a month or so) and tank is all set up and awesome? You basically just put it in your tank, the dead stuff is what starts the cycle. It is debatable whether or not to do water changes during the cycle, its really up to you. But not necessary. I would run your light, not on a normal cycle but on a little bit atleast, there will most likely be some coraline on there you might want to keep alive. Premium Aquatics IMO has the best stuff. especially their Timpora and Alor rock. You could be right, all of my rock is from locals I have just heard really good things about sealife. Link to comment
nanoreefnate Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 sealife is quarried rock that they put in the ocean for 3 years...IMO not Real LR. Link to comment
nitrofish1 Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share Posted October 3, 2009 You basically just put it in your tank, the dead stuff is what starts the cycle. It is debatable whether or not to do water changes during the cycle, its really up to you. But not necessary. I would run your light, not on a normal cycle but on a little bit atleast, there will most likely be some coraline on there you might want to keep alive. You could be right, all of my rock is from locals I have just heard really good things about sealife. thanks alot it looks like sealifeinc only has aquacultured LR. checked out premium aquatics. they have fiji live rock, yet it is cheaper than the nano live rock, and more colorful. but it is uncured, but i think that the nano rock is uncured too, but yet it comes with corals and critters? does it matter if i buy cured or uncured and put them in the tank? Link to comment
nitrofish1 Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share Posted October 3, 2009 thanks alot it looks like sealifeinc only has aquacultured LR. checked out premium aquatics. they have fiji live rock, yet it is cheaper than the nano live rock, and more colorful. but it is uncured, but i think that the nano rock is uncured too, but yet it comes with corals and critters? does it matter if i buy cured or uncured and put them in the tank? also, doesnt uncured live rock smell really bad while its curing? Link to comment
TheresaB Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 sealife is quarried rock that they put in the ocean for 3 years...IMO not Real LR. So... how do they get live rock without destroying an existing coral reef? (This is a real question. I purposely bought aquacultured rock because I couldn't easily find an answer and I didn't want to be directly responsible for causing more coral reef damage. On the other hand, maybe there is some way to get live rock without damaging reefs. I don't know.) Oh, and I bought my rock from sealife. I'm quite happy with it. Link to comment
nitrofish1 Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share Posted October 3, 2009 ok. those sites look quite nice to buy from. my LFS sells base rock for 8 dollars a pound. BASE ROCK! i guess that explains why no one buys it. so cured or uncured? i can get cured rock for the same price as uncured on premium aquatics. can someone run me through the steps again? ive done it with jacob, but now that this discussion has continued, im not sure if its changed or not. Link to comment
Trolldoll Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Why cure live rock? Live rock must be properly cured to create a healthy marine environment. The biodiversity found on all transported live rock undergo some degree of natural die-off, especially delicate or damaged fauna and flora. As these encrusting organisms go through this process, they produce a large amount of waste materials. Without proper curing, pollutants and toxic compounds such as ammonia are released into the water and compromise the health of your entire aquarium system. Whether pre-cured or uncured, it is crucial to never introduce any live rock to an established aquarium containing fish, corals, or other marine animals unless it has been properly cured. Curing Live Rock Important: Do not place uncured live rock directly into an aquarium containing fish, corals, or other marine animals. Note: Be sure to use gloves when handling live rock to prevent accidental cuts and potential infection. There are many different ways to cure live rock, however, at Drs. Foster & Smith we have found the following methods to be the most effective: Method A: Curing process of live rock for the established display aquarium that already contains fish, corals, or any other marine animals. Place the live rock in a new 30-gallon plastic garbage can. Consider adding bottom drains to the container to speed draining and water changes. Completely cover the rock with freshly mixed saltwater, with a specific gravity of 1.021 - 1.025. Use a heater and keep the water temperature near 80 degrees to speed die off. Provide constant water movement with a power head or air stone. Keep the area dimly lit to prevent algae blooms. Perform 100% water changes twice weekly. Gently scrub the rock with a new nylon bristle brush or toothbrush between water changes to remove any white film or dead material. When the water conditions stabilize and ammonia and nitrite tests are zero, the rock is ready to be placed into the display aquarium. Most live rock will be fully cured in 1 - 3 weeks, at which time it is safe to add to the display aquarium. Method B: Curing process of live rock for the new aquarium that DOES NOT contain fish, corals, or any other marine animals. Live rock may be used to cycle a new marine aquarium. Follow the manufacturer's directions on the installation of all filtration devices and accessories. Fill aquarium with freshly mixed saltwater with a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025. Activate all filtration equipment, check for leaks, and set heater and/or chiller to the desired temperature of 72-78°F. Note: Mechanical filtration will need frequent cleaning during this cycling process. Rinse each piece of live rock in a small bucket of saltwater to remove any loose organic matter, debris, or sand. Place live rock into the aquarium to create a stable foundation for corals or decorations. Keep the lighting system off during the cycling period in order to reduce the likelihood of undesirable algae growth. Gently scrub the rocks periodically with a new nylon bristle brush or toothbrush to remove loose white film or dead material. Perform 50% water changes weekly while siphoning out any organic matter and loose debris that accumulates at the bottom of the aquarium. Measure and monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels in the aquarium weekly. When both ammonia and nitrite levels are zero, perform a 50% water change on the aquarium. After 24 hours, check the pH of the water and adjust as needed to achieve the desired level of 8.1-8.4. Most aquariums will cycle within 2-4 weeks using this technique, depending on the equipment that is installed. Helpful Tips for Controlling Unwanted Pests: Submerse the new rock into a bucket filled with saltwater with a specific gravity of 1.035 to 1.040 for one minute. Any invertebrates including mantis shrimp, bristle worms, and crabs will quickly evacuate from the rock and into the bucket of water. Remove the live rock from the bucket and sort through the invertebrates in the bucket. Determine those you want to add to your system and discard unwanted pests. Bristle worms still attached to the rock can be removed with a pair of needle-nosed pliers or tweezers. This technique can be used to remove unwanted pests before or after curing your newly arrived live rock. Curing Live Sand Live sand should be rinsed in saltwater to remove any organic matter that may foul the water in the aquarium. After rinsing, the sand may be placed directly in any marine aquarium. Remove the bag(s) of sand from shipping box and dump sand into a new 5-gallon bucket, filling the bucket 1/2 full with live sand. Add saltwater from the aquarium until the bucket is 2/3 full of water and sand. Slowly stir the sand by hand until the water within the bucket becomes cloudy with debris. Discard the dirty water in the bucket and place the sand back into the shipping bag. Lower the shipping bag to the bottom of the aquarium. Disperse the sand slowly and evenly across the bottom of the aquarium. Repeat the above steps until all of the sand has been placed into the aquarium. Link to comment
nitrofish1 Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 Why cure live rock?Live rock must be properly cured to create a healthy marine environment. The biodiversity found on all transported live rock undergo some degree of natural die-off, especially delicate or damaged fauna and flora. As these encrusting organisms go through this process, they produce a large amount of waste materials. Without proper curing, pollutants and toxic compounds such as ammonia are released into the water and compromise the health of your entire aquarium system. Whether pre-cured or uncured, it is crucial to never introduce any live rock to an established aquarium containing fish, corals, or other marine animals unless it has been properly cured. Curing Live Rock Important: Do not place uncured live rock directly into an aquarium containing fish, corals, or other marine animals. Note: Be sure to use gloves when handling live rock to prevent accidental cuts and potential infection. There are many different ways to cure live rock, however, at Drs. Foster & Smith we have found the following methods to be the most effective: Method A: Curing process of live rock for the established display aquarium that already contains fish, corals, or any other marine animals. Place the live rock in a new 30-gallon plastic garbage can. Consider adding bottom drains to the container to speed draining and water changes. Completely cover the rock with freshly mixed saltwater, with a specific gravity of 1.021 - 1.025. Use a heater and keep the water temperature near 80 degrees to speed die off. Provide constant water movement with a power head or air stone. Keep the area dimly lit to prevent algae blooms. Perform 100% water changes twice weekly. Gently scrub the rock with a new nylon bristle brush or toothbrush between water changes to remove any white film or dead material. When the water conditions stabilize and ammonia and nitrite tests are zero, the rock is ready to be placed into the display aquarium. Most live rock will be fully cured in 1 - 3 weeks, at which time it is safe to add to the display aquarium. Method B: Curing process of live rock for the new aquarium that DOES NOT contain fish, corals, or any other marine animals. Live rock may be used to cycle a new marine aquarium. Follow the manufacturer's directions on the installation of all filtration devices and accessories. Fill aquarium with freshly mixed saltwater with a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025. Activate all filtration equipment, check for leaks, and set heater and/or chiller to the desired temperature of 72-78°F. Note: Mechanical filtration will need frequent cleaning during this cycling process. Rinse each piece of live rock in a small bucket of saltwater to remove any loose organic matter, debris, or sand. Place live rock into the aquarium to create a stable foundation for corals or decorations. Keep the lighting system off during the cycling period in order to reduce the likelihood of undesirable algae growth. Gently scrub the rocks periodically with a new nylon bristle brush or toothbrush to remove loose white film or dead material. Perform 50% water changes weekly while siphoning out any organic matter and loose debris that accumulates at the bottom of the aquarium. Measure and monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels in the aquarium weekly. When both ammonia and nitrite levels are zero, perform a 50% water change on the aquarium. After 24 hours, check the pH of the water and adjust as needed to achieve the desired level of 8.1-8.4. Most aquariums will cycle within 2-4 weeks using this technique, depending on the equipment that is installed. Helpful Tips for Controlling Unwanted Pests: Submerse the new rock into a bucket filled with saltwater with a specific gravity of 1.035 to 1.040 for one minute. Any invertebrates including mantis shrimp, bristle worms, and crabs will quickly evacuate from the rock and into the bucket of water. Remove the live rock from the bucket and sort through the invertebrates in the bucket. Determine those you want to add to your system and discard unwanted pests. Bristle worms still attached to the rock can be removed with a pair of needle-nosed pliers or tweezers. This technique can be used to remove unwanted pests before or after curing your newly arrived live rock. Curing Live Sand Live sand should be rinsed in saltwater to remove any organic matter that may foul the water in the aquarium. After rinsing, the sand may be placed directly in any marine aquarium. Remove the bag(s) of sand from shipping box and dump sand into a new 5-gallon bucket, filling the bucket 1/2 full with live sand. Add saltwater from the aquarium until the bucket is 2/3 full of water and sand. Slowly stir the sand by hand until the water within the bucket becomes cloudy with debris. Discard the dirty water in the bucket and place the sand back into the shipping bag. Lower the shipping bag to the bottom of the aquarium. Disperse the sand slowly and evenly across the bottom of the aquarium. Repeat the above steps until all of the sand has been placed into the aquarium. thanks Link to comment
gmr7494 Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 Premium Aquatics IMO has the best stuff. especially their Timpora and Alor rock. +1 for Premium Aquatics. The Alor rock is terrific. Very lightweight, porous, and will give you lots of coralline colors. I have about 20 pounds in my tank. Link to comment
scottyreef Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 all of my rock came from yourreef they have great stuff and free shipping for you i would tell you to get the 15lb pack for 67.50 shipped http://www.yourreef.com/LiveRock.html Link to comment
soundman Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 So... how do they get live rock without destroying an existing coral reef? (This is a real question. I purposely bought aquacultured rock because I couldn't easily find an answer and I didn't want to be directly responsible for causing more coral reef damage. On the other hand, maybe there is some way to get live rock without damaging reefs. I don't know.) Oh, and I bought my rock from sealife. I'm quite happy with it. I believe it's illegal for the live rock suppliers to collect anything but live rock that has been naturally broken from the reef by storms. Link to comment
nitrofish1 Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 all of my rock came from yourreef they have great stuff and free shipping for you i would tell you to get the 15lb pack for 67.50 shipped http://www.yourreef.com/LiveRock.html looks like a sweet deal. Link to comment
rizakaniza Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 +1 for SeaLifeInc I got mine from SeaLifeInc and it is hands down the most amazing rock I have ever seen. I bought it because I found the general consensus to be that SeaLifeInc was the very best. My rocks are completely covered in life. Every day I find something new sprouting off my rocks (i.e. sponges, macro-algae, etc.). It also came with a number of hitchhikers (pencil urchins, crabs, pistol shrimp, snails, worms, etc.). Link to comment
chilyb Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 The rocks from Fiji or the south pacific are generally more interesting to look at, lighter and porous. But there is really no way to get all the life on the rocks from Fiji alive to your aquarium - so there is less life and fewer hitchhikers. I believe there also may be some laws regarding this. Florida LR is farmed rock that has been thrown in the ocean for a couple years, then they pull it out and fedex next day it to your house. That's why it can be sent uncured and there should theoretically be minimal die off. So it depends what you want in your tank. Some people like all the critters that come with Florida aquaculture (some good, some bad). Link to comment
nitrofish1 Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 The rocks from Fiji or the south pacific are generally more interesting to look at, lighter and porous. But there is really no way to get all the life on the rocks from Fiji alive to your aquarium - so there is less life and fewer hitchhikers. I believe there also may be some laws regarding this. Florida LR is farmed rock that has been thrown in the ocean for a couple years, then they pull it out and fedex next day it to your house. That's why it can be sent uncured and there should theoretically be minimal die off. So it depends what you want in your tank. Some people like all the critters that come with Florida aquaculture (some good, some bad). thanks for this tidbit of info. im more or less looking for less critter hitchhikers, and more macroalgae and coral hitchhikers. Link to comment
rizakaniza Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 thanks for this tidbit of info. im more or less looking for less critter hitchhikers, and more macroalgae and coral hitchhikers. My rocks are covered in Halimeda, Shaving brushes, Mermaid's fans and more that I have not yet identified. No corals that I have seen so far, but definitely sponges. Link to comment
nitrofish1 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 My rocks are covered in Halimeda, Shaving brushes, Mermaid's fans and more that I have not yet identified. No corals that I have seen so far, but definitely sponges. sounds great to me Link to comment
rpatjr Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 I've ordered some rock for one of my tanks from intmarinefish.com and the rock wasn't all that great. I've just picked up a biocube 14 and been looking at yourreef.com or even reefcleaners or bulkreefsupply for some dryrock. I guess the choices depends on your cash flow. Link to comment
rizakaniza Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 sounds great to me Did I mention featherdusters! Link to comment
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