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Why Acros Like High Flow


Gilman

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Alot of Acroporas live in the surf zone. This morning, the wedge in Newport Beach had some sets coming in with 20ft plus faces. While I was there I was thinking that it was pretty amazing that acros can withstand this sort of punishment. I have seen corals in Indonesia and Bali (in photos, but I can't wait to go one day) that handle this type of surf condition on a regular basis. Our powerheads are feeble in comparison.

 

You can see someone on the shoulder which gives you an idea of wave size.

wedge550_1.jpg

 

Different wave, maybe even a bit larger.

wedge550_2.jpg

 

Gil

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Wow....that's incredible. One thing I thought of is that hugs waves like that probably help a ton w/ propagation. Tips break off and end up somewhere new. It really is amazing though at how durable they appear to be under that violent water.

 

Cameron

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It's amazing that corals have beem subjected to this for millions of years; swells, storms, hurricanes, and tsunamis; yet keeping them alive in a tank is still impossible for some of us. I'm cranking my wavemaker up to full power tonight!!!

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Physh yes natural fragging would definitely occur it seems.

 

Bin Weed thanks man.

 

adin, cali water isnt really that bad as long as there isn't a storm, and your not out by where a creek outlets into the ocean.

 

Johnny, hahahahahahahaha.

 

surfy no thanks. I only bodyboard, and not at the wedge. Only complete psychos actually surf at the wedge, its mostly bodyboarding and bodysurfing only. The place is notorious for breaking necks.

 

Gil

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Originally posted by Gilman

surfy no thanks. I only bodyboard,  

Gil

 

gilster, do u feel that your lovehandles add unnecessary friction in the water when they sag around the sides of the bodyboard and slow u down, or do the love handles actually stabilize the craft allowing better straightline movement...

 

and if the answer is to the latter, do u often have to shift your weight and make sure the love handle sag is in equilirium on BOTH sides of the board?

 

inquiring minds want to know...

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Nice Shots Gil,

 

Damn that break looks wicked.

 

To bad our breaks are lacking the size today. At least we had off shore winds this morning, good long board dawn patrol.

 

Who say's there is no surf in Texas.

 

http://www.spadre.com/surfcam.htm

 

 

Samstersam,

 

I would love to see you on that wave screaming O* SH*T, mommy...mommy...

 

Got to thinking, you would be doing that on the paddle out.

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Samster,

 

Thats pretty funny coming from a guy who posts a pic of his car in a thread called, "Post a picture of yourself" hehe. Next time I'm in NY will you come see me so I can slap ya silly fer bein dumbass. Will ya?

 

:D

 

Here is a couple shots of me (not for you Samster who obviously is spending time thinking about my naked, wet, body) highlighting my love handles. hehehe

 

Taking off

bb3.jpg

 

In my happy place (maybe I made it, maybe I didn't)

bb6.jpg

 

Bikelock, the wedge is a very well known wave. I have only gone out there when its small. Im over having my neck broken by a wave.

 

Gil

 

ps. theres waves in texas?!

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Here is a shot of someone who is about to get PUMMELED this morning at The Wedge. This place is something to see in person when its breaking.

 

yardsale480.jpg

 

Gil

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Originally posted by Gilman

Here is a shot of someone who is about to get PUMMELED this morning at The Wedge. This place is something to see in person when its breaking.

 

yardsale480.jpg  

 

Gil

 

ouch.

 

what must be running through his mind...

 

"FARK! I left the oven on!!!"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

....(" no wait a minute. i'm a farking squirrel for christ's sake...)

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OMG!

 

I bet he got just a little sand in his wetsuit.

 

How deep is it breaking there to be jackin' up like that and spitting that guy out?

 

Anyway I love the pics of your waves, entering the green room.

 

No need to be a super hero anymore. Better to just have fun and surf another day.

 

And Gil there are waves in Texas just not all the time and not always very big and if anybody asks it SUCKS and DON'T COME DOWN. But when it is firing it is extremely good. Like a good day down in Mexico, it just doesn't last though. Oh and there are not the crowds, I love being blocks from the beach!

 

Pray for surf,

 

Bikelock

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Sweet! @ waves in TX. I wont tell I promise.

 

Glad you like the pics. I like taking them.

 

The wedge breaks in about 2-4ft of water at most. The waves really throw the lip over, and the beach is kinda steep so the backwash makes it jack up to amazing heights sometimes. I actually got some good shots of the guy that is in midair on other waves, I'll resize and post a couple other shots from today.

 

Gil

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Here is a shot from yesterday showing how close to shore the break is.

wedgesand480.jpg

 

Same guy as above about to get pitted in a big way this morning. Already has a big roof over his head in the shot.

wedgetube480.jpg

 

Gil

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A few more from this morning.....

 

This is a longer exposure. In the full size version, the only thing that isnt a little blurred/softened is the rider.

wedged480.jpg

 

Flying through the air with the greatest of ease.

airwedge480.jpg

 

Sucks to be this guy.

sucks480.jpg

 

Gil

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Gil- how close do you live from the beach? I'm moveing to Dana point in a couple years when I finish school up my way.

 

Yeah I can see why you would only want to body board there. Newport has some fast ruff surf so I usually go a little farther up to where it's a little smaller. Plus there are a bunch of asses that surf there. I usually ride a 7'6" board so it's a little hard for me to ride the waves in Newport.

 

The last time I went to the beach me and my friends got caught in a huge rip tide.

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Surfy,

 

I grew up in dana point man. I live in Lake Forest now which isn't too far from the beach, wish I was a lil closer. Next house will be for sure.

 

The pics of me above were taken at State Park in San Clemente. I go out there, Lost Winds or Riviera in San Clemente on a very regular basis. I prefer San Clemente to strangs/salt creek in DP.

 

I have gang of friends in newport so I can go out there with them and end up not getting too much stinkeye. The singer of my band is known as the surfing mayor of newport so he gets the respect, and I ride the coattails. hahaha. 49th/52nd is where I go out there, if I do.

 

I also go down to mexico periodically to Popotla, Pemex beach break (pay the guy with the machine gun a few bux to watch your car np), Calafia, and k38.

 

Gil

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LOL, cool man. Yeah San Clemente is pretty nice. I used to go there all the time when I was little.

Is your singer really good at surfing? When I was there last there was a guy out there riping it up. Maybe it was him.

If it was he stole all my waves.

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Our singer is an oldschool barrelrider. Every year he goes to Tavarua and Bali, sometimes with the quicksilver surf team (which he is not a member of). Everyone in our band but the drummer goes in the water (drummer lives in pomona so no beach).

 

Last year when our singer was in bali, he was a victim of a terrorist attack as was the manager of our band who was killed in the bombing. (RIP Webby) He has been back surfing, but his balance isn't always as good as before the bombing since it blew out the coclea in one of his ears. If you do a google search for Steve Cabler, you can find alot of information about him.

 

When you move to DP, we'll paddle.

 

Gil

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Oh man that sucks, I'm sorry. Yeah now I remember reading your thread about that. That has to be a pretty awefull thing to go through.

I've lost a couple good friends but not through something like that.

 

How come you weren't there if you don't mind me asking. Thank god you weren't.

 

My thoughts and prayers are with you and your friend.

 

I'm always at the beach so maybe i'll see you sometime before I move.

 

Do you have any shows planned any time soon? I always go to shows too.

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Gil,

 

Amazing shots of an amazing wave. The sucking power looks amazing, nothing like a 15' shore break to scare the (insert) out of you.

 

I was down at K38 this year while at a wedding in that Lobster City or something like that. I forget right now. Waves were small but nice long lines.

 

Looking forward to seeing more shots.

 

My thoughts go out to your loss and that your friend gets his balance back.

 

Bikelock

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wow those r cool pics from the wedge. i have family down there and a few of them go out to the wedge every once in a while. my cousin had a few bad experience there....ouch

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OMFG!

OMFG!

Damn Gil....I wish I lived SO close to the wedge.Its a CRAZY CRAZY place....as Im sure you know. I would love to surf it sometime but more like the 10ft range. 20ft beach break is not for me :) my bones arent rubber enough.

Man those are AWESOME PICS! Its cool that you body board too my friend, the ocean is so important to me in my life and im sure you can understand what im saying. :shakka:

You are a great photographer Gil. Get more pics for me! Lol! Ill need something to tide me over till we get a 'real' swell. Right now its like 4-5ft here :|

photo3f7bed338ea07.jpg

the wedge is NO JOKE :P

 

~Ray

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