LED Dual Retro - BioCube29 & Custom 3.5g AIO Acrylic

[rvadub]

Did you remove the two power switches that you use for the stock lighting or did you just remove them?

 

BTW, got to thing I had a grinder her. Put a cut wheel on and 3 min later had the sink cut to fit around the fans. Kicking myself for not thinking of that sooner. I would have to make one more notch if I keep the stock switches.

 

For the moonlights, where do you plan to position them? I will have six so I am thinking one on each corner and two in the middle I guess?

[C Jerome]

Yes, I will post photos of the project soon, I am just about done I just need to do the final hook up of the wiring harness to the buckpucks, fans, and UVs in the hood.

 

Check out my list of parts in the first post, I have a list for the pico build and one for the 29 build and then one total list. I will update if necessary with the photo post.

 

I left the power switches for the stock lighting in place but I am not using them for anything. I though it would look better if they were left in place. Did you make the notch in the front near the feeding hood like I did? If your heat sink is the same size as mine then it should fit with out touching the switches. I have to take a look at it but maybe you can remove the switch parts but leave the rubber switch boots intact so it looks like they are there.

As for the moon lights I am not sure yet but I think I will put them approximately in an equilateral triangle layout with one in each corner.

[C Jerome]

The continuation of the Biocube 29 build.

I think I left of after I modified the heat sink. After this I did the same as the other build and screwed down all of the LEDs and then soldered them together to make the two strings of white and two of blue.

With the center mounted fan I needed to cut a hole in the hood. I put tape down on the top of the hood so I could measure out exactly where to cut.

I wanted the hole to be centered left right and then where ever it needed to be up down to line up with the heat sink hole, it took about ten minutes to measure out, then cut the hold with my dremel and it all lined up. The fan is attached to the hood with four bolts that also hold the grill down. There is another piece that snaps over that grill that hides the bolt heads and holds the foam filter.

Next I made the brackets to hold the heat sink, I was 95% positive that I took pictures of this and the wiring in my project box but looking though the download to my computer they are not there so I am not sure what happened to them, but I am going to look again this evening. ( looked and I was wrong, I did not take the photos, sorry)

In place of photos I will give you a protracted description... I first went to make the two brackets to run the long left/right way like someone did for their nanocube but after a few minutes I realized that for the bio cube it will be better to run two straps the short way up/down. I made the brackets from the aluminum stock listed in my shopping list.

To make the brackets I first measured the length needed to span the heat sink then add the amount needed to go up either side of the heat sink, make sure these parts go almost to the edge of the heat sink so you can reach them with the screw driver especially on the feeding door side Once you have the total length you need measure it out on the stock, mark the first tab(the part you will bend) then the length that runs under the heat sink then mark the end of the other tab, I added a little extra to the middle part. Now trim this whole length off and mark another just like it. To bend the tabs you could use a vice if you have one (I dont) or do what I did and use a block of metal or the extra heat sink I had. Take your pair of channel grips to hold the stock down aligning the line for the tab with the edge of the block next just use your strong thumb to fold the strap down against the corner making a nice clean bend, do it three more times for the other ends. Now that the straps are made dry fit them and mark the two spots to drill holes in the bracket to go into the mounting posts for each bracket, drill holes. Next mark the spot near the top of each tab where you will attach it to the heat sink, drill and tap holes now mark holes on heat sink and drill and tap. Lastly screw into heatsink to secure!

 

You can see in the photo below the brackets on the back side.

Now that the heat sink is secured I used some double stick foam tape to secure the buck pucks to the hood. I secured the white and blue leads from the BPs to the leads from the LEDs leaving the DC in red and black for later.

 

Cleaned up some and ready for the next step

 

Also some where along the way I freed up the flow for the fan vents on both sides by removing some plastic, this should allow better flow in and out of the hood. To do this I made several cuts using wire cutters perpendicular to the grate direction then used needle nose pliers to snap off the extra plastic. One vent will be left open and the other will blow out.

 

Next up I wired up the project box. I have a complicated pencil drawing wiring diagram, if anyone is interested let me know and I will scan and upload it. I am using two power supplies one for blue LEDs and one for White. The blue one will also power the fans. There are four DC lines into the project box from the power supplies, one for the UV, one for the Fuge, one for the blue and one white. There are separate AC plugs for the white, fuge light and the blue and UV share one AC plug. The other side of the box has a 12 pin molex type connector, 10 are active- 2 for blue, 2 for white, 2 fuge, 2 UV, 2 hood fan, and then a separate pig tale for the stand fans. Once the DC lines go into the project box the white, UV and fuge go right to the molex out. The blue DC in is split to the blue molex pins and then split for the hood and stand fans which first go to the pots so I can control them. See three related photos below.

 

 

Next i put together my wiring which consists of three four conductor cables. If you can find a 12 conductor 18 gauge that would be ideal but I could not find one near me. I labeled all the wires put one end into to the connector and the other up to the hood. I also put them into a wire loom to keep it nice looking. I used the stock hole in the rear of the hood but drilled a new one into the light area right near the fan.

I made all the connections with these little wire nuts I purchased at home depot, they are in little boxes on the shelf not on the peg board if you are looking for them.

Below everything is connected(except the fuge light which I have not built yet) and cleaned up

Some one asked about the switches

Wider view

And the money shot!

 

 

I need to add a few more things...

[evilc66]

MOAR!!

[rvadub]

What size is the fan again and is it gong to be mounted to the heat sin or the hood and will it be flush or above the hood?

[C Jerome]

120MM and it is bolted to the inside of the hood. I will add a photo of the top of the hood it looks like it is stock. Remember that I did remove material from the heat sink in the center to allow the fan to sink into it some, if you can not do this then I would see if a 10mm thick 120mm fan is available.

[evilc66]

Thinnest I have seen 120mm fans is 25mm. 80mm fans go down to 15mm thick.

[C Jerome]

See post 78 for lots more pictures and words...

[evilc66]

That looks like a bunch more pictures and words. Action shots?

[C Jerome]

We are going to have to wait a while for the action shots over the tank as its not set up yet. I plan to upgrade my biocube 14 to the 29 in the coming weeks.

 

The light has been set up for the nano for about two weeks now and some of the corals are taking well to it but others such as a small galaxy and a plate frag are taking it a little harder. They are not inflating much or extending. I am still only running it about 1/3 on the dials. Do I just need to wait longer to turn it up more? Maybe two more weeks then turn it up to 2/3 then two more to full?

[evilc66]

Wait it out. Thats a major jump in light, even at 1/3 power.

[thecowkid]

Thanks for the pic. I love the gheto ato straw mod. Custom tank topped off with a straw. LOL gotta love it. This has got to be the coolest LED setup I've seen. I love how you can dial your power in to the exact amt that you want/need. I'm still waiting for mine in the mail.

[C Jerome]

I have moved the two taking it the hardest to the sand and one under into partial shade.

 

I though the bendy straw was just the right thing to use and it turned out well. I have the 5 liter nalgene down on the floor and the line runs up to the straw to go over the edge into the tank. Thanks for the complement on the LEDs!

 

I snapped a few photos of the 29 hood top side with my phone this morning, I am really happy with the way it has turned out. I think it looks like it could be an OEM hood from the outside.

The only thing that could make it better is if HD had mat gray black paint for the knobs in place of the mat black, but I think I can live with it ;-)

Closer up

[rvadub]

What switches are those? Also, for like MH likes, should the screen trick be used to adjust to the stronger lights? Looks clean! Where did you get the fan cover too?

[C Jerome]

Thanks!

The knobs are up in my shopping list and then I painted them mat black to match. The screen is not as necessary with the LEDs since you can just dial them down to low and increase as corals acclimate, unlike the MH which is all or nothing you use the screen to reduce the intensity. The fan cover may be in the shopping list but I got that from Willeys, link in the list.

 

Jerome

[evilc66]

It does look really clean from the outside.

[mkregs]

Looks like a really nice clean-looking build! Good job!!

 

I'd be interested in seeing a few FTS with this hood installed.

[C Jerome]

I want full tank shots too! I am collecting the gear I need to get the 29 up so I can transfer over my critters from the 14. Also I am toying with moving in the next month so I probably will not be set up until July when I know if I am staying put.

Stuff I have the used but clean tank and stand, LED modded hood , heater, sand, still need DJ switched power strip, koralin 1, upgraded return pump, install GFI in wall to replace extension cord one I use now (I have to do this when moving the tanks as the outlet is behind the stand) anything else?

 

Jerome

[firebirdude]

OUTSTANDING job. REALLY really well done.

 

Maybe a dumb question, but the clear plastic protective cover over the stock PC lights..... you just ditched it? Or is it installed? You're not worried about salt build up on your LEDs? I noticed in Waterproof's build that his was still installed, so figured I'd ask.

[C Jerome]

I just had not screwed it on yet in the last photo of it lit up. I still need to cover up the holes that the OEM cords went through, but I plan to install and use it when over the tank to seal up everything nice.

 

Thanks

Jerome

[uwwmatt]

Great work

[C Jerome]

Thanks!

[firebirdude]

Maybe a dumb question.... but what are the UV LEDs for?

[SbCaes]

WOW. is all i can say. AWESOME JEROME. I wish i could pull things like this out. =)

[C Jerome]

The 'uv' LEDs are to provide light close to the UV spectrum which I read SPS and Clams require to really thrive. I personally am not clear if these LEDs can actually provide the exact required spectrum but I had space so why not?

 

Thanks for the complements! You can put something like this together. I am rather handy so thats easier for me to say, but really I have seen some people post who say they did not have any experience and their project came out great. There are several threads similar to mine after studying them for a little you should be able to put your own build together, its just like legos only a few more pieces.

 

Jerome