Jenna Posted January 27, 2009 Author Share Posted January 27, 2009 My water parameters are fine. Its just the algae part of the cycle kicking into high gear. LOL I have some snails already but they aren't able to keep on top of it. Today I added an Emerald crab and 2 blue legged hermits. We'll see how it all goes but so far the crabs are having the time of their lives at the new buffet. Hi Nitrate? PO4? Now. you need turbo snail and fighting conch and alg eater blenny Isn't it though? LOL beautious! Link to comment
UncleLuke Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 My water parameters are fine. Its just the algae part of the cycle kicking into high gear. LOL Most NEVER have a "algae part" of the cycle. That usually comes later with overfeeding/stocking. PO4 and nitares are 0? Link to comment
PoopCola Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 how long is the light cycle? is it exposed to sunlight? Link to comment
arty77 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Looking good. The algae is a nice natural food for the cleaning crew. Am I being delirious or is that a catfish? Link to comment
RaddReef319 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Unfortunately, it could be bryopsis. Bryopsis doesn't like high light and usually grows closer to the bottom of reef tanks. Does it have a feathery appearence? If so, it could be bryopsis plumosa. Link to comment
Jenna Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 That concerns me. What I read about the "cycle" is that the tank will have an ammonia spike. Then, as ammonia falls, nitrites rise. After that, nitrates rise and nitrites fall. For the most part its up to us to export the nitrates through water changes, etc. Then after that part of the cycle is complete, we start adding a CUC to eat the algae that is inevitable. I did have my LFS test my water to make sure I'm reading the tests right and they tested for a great many things more than what I test for and said everything was fine. They knew I wasn't there to buy at that point. But I do know for sure my nitrates are at 0 or barely registering if at all. (Yes, I did the test right with all the proper shaking. LOL) Now I'm worried because there must be something else going on if the algae isn't normal. Most NEVER have a "algae part" of the cycle. That usually comes later with overfeeding/stocking. PO4 and nitares are 0? No sunlight but I have the lights set for 9am - 6pm. how long is the light cycle? is it exposed to sunlight? The CUC certainly seem to be enjoying themselves. ha ha LOL Yes, that's our catfish Millie. For some reason she thinks that she has to be in all the photos I take of the aquarium. Looking good. The algae is a nice natural food for the cleaning crew. Am I being delirious or is that a catfish? Link to comment
Jenna Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 Thanks for that info. I went and researched it and that is not the same kind of algae that I have. I put in an emerald crab yesterday and he is eating the algae like crazy as are the two hermits. But I'm going to buy some Chemi-pure Elite today just in case there are phosphates in the water that the LFS missed in their tests. I don't have a way to check for TDS at this moment. *adds phosphate test to shopping list* If there is a problem its with my water or my salt because the algae started appearing before I started adding my CUC and up to that point the only hitchikers were a couple of bristle worms, a few feather worms and a Collonista snail. Unfortunately, it could be bryopsis. Bryopsis doesn't like high light and usually grows closer to the bottom of reef tanks. Does it have a feathery appearence? If so, it could be bryopsis plumosa. Link to comment
yankeereefer Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 I thought I read that you used distilled water - This might also be part of the problem - I know others have used it successfully, but I used walmart distilled when I first started my tanks (before I invested in RO/DI) and had crazy problems with hair algae. Link to comment
Jenna Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 We've been using Zephyrhills Distilled water. I did a search here and Zephyrhills wasn't known to have phosphate issues but I don't discount it entirely. I could use RO/DI from the LFS. I spoke to one LFS to ask if they test for TDS. They don't but he did say they change their filters weekly. They also sell saltwater. Maybe I should buy some water from him and test it myself. One of these days I will get an RO/DI unit but for now, I have to make do with what I can. I thought I read that you used distilled water - This might also be part of the problem - I know others have used it successfully, but I used walmart distilled when I first started my tanks (before I invested in RO/DI) and had crazy problems with hair algae. Link to comment
yankeereefer Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Unless your LFS runs a TON of water, they should not have to change out any of their RO/DI filtration on a weekly basis. Link to comment
Jenna Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 Ok, got the Chemi-pure Elite in just in case. They were out of phosphate tests though. The CUC is making excellent progress with the algae. The Emerald crab is really gorging on it. Yankeereefer, it could be that the guy was just saying that to convince me his water is perfectly safe. It may be. But I really have no way to test for sure...yet. Link to comment
UncleLuke Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 DON"T TRUST THE LFS DON"T TRUST THE LFS DON"T TRUST THE LFS Ok, now are you listening? Link to comment
Deeseven Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Beautiful tank Jenna I love the built in fuge beautiful work...Just my 2 cents here...I BELIEVE (I think) I saw a coralife timer on the 2nd. Just IMO...throw that ###### out...Speaking from personal experience here I had one running on my 20 long and one morning I woke up to a LOUD crackling sound and saw my coralife timer shooting out sparks..lucky I live in the basement and killed the power to my room and unplugged everything BUT if you do a quick google search http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=584645 I consider myself lucky that I was home that day. There is other alternatives to a coralife timer (much cheaper imo) here is what I plan on using or My next tank... http://www.amazon.com/American-DJ-channel-...e/dp/B0002GL50Q slim design..everything literally is a click off and on..as for a timer you can use a regular kitchen timer..I've been using one for YEARS without an issue on my freshwater tank. Link to comment
Jenna Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 Thanks! You are right, I'm using the coralife timer. Thanks for the warning info on it. I'll be sure to replace it asap! I do NOT want any sort of electrical issues. That's just plain scary! I'm not that thrilled with it anyway because I can't set the actinics and daylight bulbs on separate cycles. Grrrrr..... Beautiful tank Jenna I love the built in fuge beautiful work...Just my 2 cents here...I BELIEVE (I think) I saw a coralife timer on the 2nd. Just IMO...throw that ###### out...Speaking from personal experience here I had one running on my 20 long and one morning I woke up to a LOUD crackling sound and saw my coralife timer shooting out sparks..lucky I live in the basement and killed the power to my room and unplugged everything BUT if you do a quick google search http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=584645 I consider myself lucky that I was home that day. There is other alternatives to a coralife timer (much cheaper imo) here is what I plan on using or My next tank... http://www.amazon.com/American-DJ-channel-...e/dp/B0002GL50Q slim design..everything literally is a click off and on..as for a timer you can use a regular kitchen timer..I've been using one for YEARS without an issue on my freshwater tank. Link to comment
Jenna Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 Ok, I finally found a phosphate test today. Its API so not bad. I did the test and it read .5 . First I tested the tank water and that was the reading I got. Then I tested the water straight out of the bottle since the test works for both fresh and saltwater. It was .5 as well. I tested another brand I had on hand and it too read .5 (sigh) I'm going to try another brand tomorrow. I think I'll buy a gallon of RO water from each of the LFS that sell it and test theirs as well to see where I get the best results. I know the reading isn't terribly bad but I'd really prefer it to read 0. Will the Chemi-pure Elite I put in bring down that level? It does remove phosphates but will it remove that much? Boy its going to be a pain to test my water BEFORE I can use it but better safe than sorry. At least until I can buy an RO/DI unit of my own. Something exciting! I had these little round, barrel shaped objects on the one rock. I thought they were some sort of sponge. Today I noticed they were opened up with little tentacles around the edge and it looks like they have green mouths! They are still small and the algae is obscuring them a bit at the moment so I can't get a good photo but I have some sort of softy growing in there! There is actually 4 different (not touching) polyps! I'm noticing more hitch hikers all the time! (grin) (No, they are not aiptasia!) Link to comment
Deeseven Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 another tip.... Ask the lfs what their tds is in their "RO" water....if they have no idea what your talking about don't even bother with the water and the ro/di unit I use is http://www.melevsreef.com/rodi.html VERY pleased with this Link to comment
Jenna Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 Deeseven, thank you for all your information and thank you for presenting it in an informative, respectful and nonjudgmental way. I am very much looking forward to getting an RO/DI unit and I've bookmarked the page for the one you provided a link to. For now I live in an apartment so I'll have to find one of the portable units or I'll have to make do. But I will be very sure to ask the LFS about TDS before buying their water. LOL At this point perhaps I should buy a TDS meter and check their water BEFORE buying it. I'm sure they'd love that! Link to comment
yankeereefer Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I live in an apt too - Alot of RO/DI systems have an attachment that just screws into the faucet output. Without removing it after making water though this renders the faucet useless as a tap. You can get an adapter or saddle valve to circumvent that problem though. Mine's in the extra bathroom so tying up the sink is not an issue Look on the classifieds here or over on RC. RO units can be found pretty cheap sometimes. Link to comment
Weetabix7 Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 See this thread for info on the Mighty Mite from airwaterice.com: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...20&start=20 It is a very portable countertop RO/DI unit. There are pics on the second pg of what it looks like hooked up to my kitchen sink. I have been very happy with this unit and w/airwaterice as a company. They also sell TDS meters for $25 and up. Link to comment
Deeseven Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Not a problem at all jenna. Just the facts maam ....as for the ro in apartment I have mine set up in my bathroom..fixed right to the sink..I got a saddle valve and put right to the ro/di system. Then the ro/di system drains into a bucket I have in the bath tub...why the bath tub? cause if it overflows..it goes down the drain..not on my floor TDS Meter http://www.amazon.com/TDS3-Meter-with-Carr...8181&sr=8-2 I've been using it for about 5-6 months takes my tds PLUS temp. Always nice to have a temp reading... Deeseven, thank you for all your information and thank you for presenting it in an informative, respectful and nonjudgmental way. I am very much looking forward to getting an RO/DI unit and I've bookmarked the page for the one you provided a link to. For now I live in an apartment so I'll have to find one of the portable units or I'll have to make do. But I will be very sure to ask the LFS about TDS before buying their water. LOL At this point perhaps I should buy a TDS meter and check their water BEFORE buying it. I'm sure they'd love that! Link to comment
Jenna Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 Thanks for this link! I'm going to save up for one of these bad boys! This will really ease these water worries. See this thread for info on the Mighty Mite from airwaterice.com:http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...20&start=20 It is a very portable countertop RO/DI unit. There are pics on the second pg of what it looks like hooked up to my kitchen sink. I have been very happy with this unit and w/airwaterice as a company. They also sell TDS meters for $25 and up. Link to comment
yankeereefer Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 try using this TDS meter. You can monitor post RO membrane and then again after the DI canister. Link to comment
frozensurfer Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 Here's what works for my tanks to be algae free.... RODI - I monitor both inlet and outlet TDS to see how the membrane is doing. Sunlight - Make sure it's not getting beamed with the afternoon sun (or in my case.. 24 hours of it in summer) Light cycle - For me, it's always been 6 on, 6 off. Best coral growth, best temperature control, least amount of algae. Water Changes - Once a week - 20% Skimmer - A must! I even have one on the 5.5g... cost me about $6 on ebay. There's a thread around NR about this... I believe the Propegator was in on it too. PO4 and N03 Reduction - Vodka. Plain and simple. Once the technique is understood and a good guidline is follwed, this is hands down the best way to control it. I don't use chemi pure, GFO or anything with Weiss in the name. Link to comment
Jenna Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 Sweet! Thanks! try using this TDS meter. You can monitor post RO membrane and then again after the DI canister. Thank you so much for sharing what works for you. Now I'm off to study the whole vodka thing. Here's what works for my tanks to be algae free.... RODI - I monitor both inlet and outlet TDS to see how the membrane is doing. Sunlight - Make sure it's not getting beamed with the afternoon sun (or in my case.. 24 hours of it in summer) Light cycle - For me, it's always been 6 on, 6 off. Best coral growth, best temperature control, least amount of algae. Water Changes - Once a week - 20% Skimmer - A must! I even have one on the 5.5g... cost me about $6 on ebay. There's a thread around NR about this... I believe the Propegator was in on it too. PO4 and N03 Reduction - Vodka. Plain and simple. Once the technique is understood and a good guidline is follwed, this is hands down the best way to control it. I don't use chemi pure, GFO or anything with Weiss in the name. Link to comment
SMK Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 Just a side note on the mounting of your outlet strip. It's not a good idea to mount it upside down, the plugs will eventually work themselves out. Mounting it vertically on the wall is your best option, IMO. OH...The tank looks great.. I love AOI's.... Link to comment
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