Normandy's 34G RSM

[strapingyunglad]

wow. thats weird. skunks are supposed to be very reef safe.

well........if you have to get rid of the shrimp i like mine fried!

[Normandy]

I gave the stock skimmer a run and it's worse than everyone says that it is. In 2 weeks I may have a thimble full of very wet skimmate. There are constantly microbubbles in the tank and there is no way to tune inbetween. Yes, there is a knob...No, it doesn't do anything except control the amount of MBs that are released into the tank.

 

My Tunze 9002 (which was on backorder) and StevieT media rack and Tunze cup mod should all arrive Friday.

 

Also, the vendor from which I received the dead corals (dead due to FedEx delay by 1 day for no reason) is not communicating very well. I've been waiting for him to go through the claim process, but there is very, very little communication coming from him.

[HankB]

So I wake up this morning to one of my Skunk Cleaner Shrimp eating my Open Brain Coral. I was groggy and furious.

 

Wow! A skunk was on our list of possible additions. During my research I saw no accounts of skunks eating corals, unlike peppermint shrimp.

 

Is there any chance the coral was in trouble and the shrimp was just doing the CUC thing?

 

thanks,

hank

[smarsh]

+1. I think the coral just died and the shrimp was eating the dead flesh. Keep in mind your tank is only like 2 weeks old, so chances are it was too much at once. Cleaner shrimp will eat anything that is dying.

[nano-nater]

+1. I think the coral just died and the shrimp was eating the dead flesh. Keep in mind your tank is only like 2 weeks old, so chances are it was too much at once. Cleaner shrimp will eat anything that is dying.

+1 in the pic you posted the brain looks pretty much dead(almost)

[Normandy]

You are correct. I went to the (very good) LFS last night and mentioned to them what had happened. They had received 3 similar brain corals in the same shipment (one of which I purchased). Two had been purchased and one was still in the store. All three died, but were inflated and looking well three days before. They asked me to bring it back and replaced it w/ a beautiful red/green Lobo.

 

As for the time-frame...yes, my tank isn't very old, but I've had very stable conditions. 10 PPM nitrates is the most I've peaked out at and that was prior to adding the Chemi-pure Elite. I'm beginning to see the spread of coralline and the start of it in areas it wasn't originally on. I used 43 #'s of fully cured LR 20 #'s of LS, and also substrate & several gallons of water from an established system. It is early, but everything is still OK.

[StevieT]

I would slow way down, tank is still too young to be adding so many living animals. I know you may be seeing stable conditions, but all it takes is one too many bioload items to offset that ballance of chemistry. After that happens, it can be very painful to watch things die off.

 

I believe your shrimp is only eating the brain because it was on it's way out. The shimp is reef safe, but after it smells dead material it will go to work cleaning your tank. My peppermint shrimp is completely reef safe, but I had a clam shipped in and it went to town on it. Reason, the clam was dead on arrival, I didn't even know this since it was closed up but the shrimp sure told me it was toast.

 

Also, adding SPS to such a new tank may not end up well. It needs the absolute stable and mature systems with optimal amounts of ballance between trace elements, calcium and alkanity. Wait 6 or so months before adding any more.

 

For now, slow down. If you do not want to take any corals back to a LFS, keep up on the water changes, watch all perams and test for calcium since you have a monti.

[Normandy]

Thank you for the words of advice. I'm not planning on any new adds for at least a month or so. I know I increased the bio-load too fast, especially w/ the Goby, but when my wife wanted to get involved I wasn't about to tell her to take back the fish. You want to see a tank in bad condition, make my wife hate it by having her take back a fish she was trying to suprise me with...then both the lives of the fish and my own would be in jeopardy.

 

As for the Monti, I admit I should have waited for that...but it seems to be doing well. Small frag, but has good color, polyp extension, and reaction to stimuli.

 

Stevie, can't wait to get my stuff from you. Coming the same day as my Tunze.

[StevieT]

Sometimes you just need to tell the wife that it is all for the health of the tank. IMO, it is better to have a tank survive a year and do it slowly than have an instant reef and have things die, costing even more $$.

 

IME, a coral will look fine for a bit, but then slowly get worse. Just watch you perams and keep that calc around 420, a monti is a pretty easy SPS coral to care for, but it does need the basics.

 

Hey, that was perfect timing then, let me know what you think when it arrives! "superior packing by StevieT"

[Normandy]

Stevie, you know your RSM, but you don't know my wife. Italian/Irish w/ a hell of a temper! I might not be around to see the year mark if I had done that.

 

My calc has been holding steady at around 500. Seems high, and I thought it would deplete, but it hasn't changed much. Am I OK @ that level?

 

 

Sometimes you just need to tell the wife that it is all for the health of the tank. IMO, it is better to have a tank survive a year and do it slowly than have an instant reef and have things die, costing even more $$.

 

IME, a coral will look fine for a bit, but then slowly get worse. Just watch you perams and keep that calc around 420, a monti is a pretty easy SPS coral to care for, but it does need the basics.

 

Hey, that was perfect timing then, let me know what you think when it arrives! "superior packing by StevieT"

[StevieT]

yeah, 500 is still ok. I like to keep it between 420-480, so 500 isn't so bad. It can readjust after a WC. It probably isn't going anywhere since there isn't much to use it, ie more SPS. Mine will drop pretty fast but I have a top full of corals that eat it up.

[Normandy]

My Tunze 9002, StevieT Media Rack, and StevieT Tunze Cup mod all arrived on Friday. I was able to set everything up quickly and everything works great. Skimmer has been breaking in for a couple of days, but I could tell that it was starting to do it's job this morning.

[StevieT]

sweeeeet !

 

your skimming will all depend on bioload and tank condtions. It may take a few days of adjusting but once you find that sweet spot, no need to keep messing with it.

[Normandy]

sweeeeet !

 

your skimming will all depend on bioload and tank condtions. It may take a few days of adjusting but once you find that sweet spot, no need to keep messing with it.

 

 

Yeah, I had a hell of a time getting the Tunze to stay put at first. I picked up 2 large rectangular magnets @ Home Depot when I went to get epoxy for the Tunze magnet. I then taped them together w/ electric tape...so they were double stacked. There was barely enough force to keep the skimmer in place. Your cup mod is a great build, but it's a little heavier than the stock cup...so with that added I kept finding the skimmer slipping to one side or the other.

 

I took the magnets apart last night and taped them side-by-side and now the hold is pretty good. I don't think it will be moving much any more.

 

I'm still trying to tune everything for the right flow in the sump area. The return pumps tend to pull more than the intake can bring in, causing some air pockets to get into the back chamber, hence microbubbles. I have been running Floss / Purigen / Chemi-pure Elite in the rack (from top to bottom) and it slows it a bit too much. If I shake the basket a bit it stops for a while until the Chemi-pure settles again.

 

Have you had this issue?

[smarsh]

I pull the tied end of the Chemi Pure through the upper shelf of egg crate. This keeps it round and allows water to flow more freely.

[Normandy]

I pull the tied end of the Chemi Pure through the upper shelf of egg crate. This keeps it round and allows water to flow more freely.

 

That makes send and sounds like an easy fix. What do you use to hold it there?

[smarsh]

The plastic tie wrap and end of the bag is enough for it to be held in my rack. Of not the case when you try, a zip tie will work. These bags get really dirty quick, be sure to clean it often. Any pic updates?

[StevieT]

+1

 

Tie the chemi pure to the middle shelve, the bag is much too big for proper flow, but with it tied I have no issues. Also you need to find the correct amount of floss to use. I have the pad kind right now, used the floss kind in the past with the rack. Right now I am using three squares cut, I replace them every 3-4 days, otherwise it blocks too much flow and messes with my ATO. If you ever go on vacation, remove the floss, run just the chemical media.

 

That makes send and sounds like an easy fix. What do you use to hold it there?

 

 

zip tie

[Normandy]

+1

 

Tie the chemi pure to the middle shelve, the bag is much too big for proper flow, but with it tied I have no issues. Also you need to find the correct amount of floss to use. I have the pad kind right now, used the floss kind in the past with the rack. Right now I am using three squares cut, I replace them every 3-4 days, otherwise it blocks too much flow and messes with my ATO. If you ever go on vacation, remove the floss, run just the chemical media.

 

 

 

 

zip tie

 

 

Thank you both (StevieT and Smarsh).

 

I'm going to see if I can't get some updated pics in the next couple of days.

[Normandy]

Ok, zip-tying the Chemi-pure to the middle rack helps a ton. Good flow through the back w/ little to no MBs in the tank. Looks clearer than ever and Nitrates are staying low (around 5-10 ppm).

 

Lobophyllia is opening more each night, fed some Silverside pieces night before last and they were very happy. Last night he was out in full form, expecting a hand-out again.

 

I've moved my Duncan higher up in the tank, with higher light and a bit more flow. Opening up this morning, it seemed to like its new placement.

 

My mushroom ($5 at the LFS since he had detached from a rock in the show tank) detached once again and has now found himself in the back of the tank on/near the substrate. I've given up there. It's getting some light and hopefully will floursh and split back there.

 

One of my Rics had two mouths when I bought it and now appears to be completely splitting.

 

Monti appears to be growing a tiny bit, could be my imagination though.

 

I'll be posting more pics soon.

[StevieT]

Ok, zip-tying the Chemi-pure to the middle rack helps a ton. Good flow through the back w/ little to no MBs in the tank. Looks clearer than ever and Nitrates are staying low (around 5-10 ppm).

 

 

 

Norm- Did you read over the instruction and troubleshooting sheet I include with all my products?!

[Normandy]

Norm- Did you read over the instruction and troubleshooting sheet I include with all my products?!

 

Uh, yes...but I guess I skipped over that part?

 

I feel like a kid who didn't do his homework and wasn't prepared for a pop quiz.

 

Your instructions were very clear and informative. I think it was "reader error".

[Normandy]

I'm thinking about adding chaeto somewhere to the equation here. Any other RSMers doing this? If so, where/how did you do it?

 

I'm thinking something the the last back area, under the return powerheads that would hold it in place below the intakes...then add a submersible LED light. Thoughts?

[smarsh]

StevieT, myself and many other RSMers have discussed this. I just use the clear walmart soapdish in the tank for my chaeto. Putting it where you said may decrease flow. Good Idea though.

[Normandy]

StevieT, myself and many other RSMers have discussed this. I just use the clear walmart soapdish in the tank for my chaeto. Putting it where you said may decrease flow. Good Idea though.

 

 

Thoughts on the following:

 

Acrylic rectangle to slip down into final chanber 4 sides that would fit just inside the glass. Eggcreate on top to allow flow. Keep Algae under the eggcrate.

 

Add LED sub lighting into Chaeto area.

 

I've also thought about adding tubing to bottom of stock powerheads to pull water from the bottom of the final chamber (instead of just an inch or so down where the powerhead intake is). Maybe this would help MB issues? If this was added, it could be routed to intake water from below Chaeto chamber to increase flow in/out of the chamber?

 

Here is a rough sketch:

chaeto_sketch.bmp