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Innovative Marine Aquariums

New Tank - CAD designs of the Tank itself!


JKUNZ

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Instead of the Tunze wave box have you thought about a Vortech MP40 or MP40W... Vortech make beautiful powerheads, and the motor is outside of the tank, keeping power cords and and heat outside... Plus, they have a wave mode if thats what your after :)... (not trying to sell it, just trying to let you know its features real quick incase you didn't know :) )

 

Also, I'd be droping the UV and getting a Two-Little-Fishies reactor and putting some carbon in it :)

 

I actually have a MP40W.....from when my 46 was running, sittinga round awaiting its next assignment. I really like it and do love the wave feature but I feel as if it still doesnt compare to the wave back in actually producing a standing wave without the need of additional powerheads. Although two mP40W's synched on one end (either side of the peninsula overflow) would be sweet.

 

Hmmmm.............now you have me thinking.

 

Why do you recommend the two-little-fishies w/ carbon? and nix the UV??

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I actually have a MP40W.....from when my 46 was running, sittinga round awaiting its next assignment. I really like it and do love the wave feature but I feel as if it still doesnt compare to the wave back in actually producing a standing wave without the need of additional powerheads. Although two mP40W's synched on one end (either side of the peninsula overflow) would be sweet.

 

Hmmmm.............now you have me thinking.

 

Why do you recommend the two-little-fishies w/ carbon? and nix the UV??

 

Haha, running up two MP40W's would definitely be awesome :D!

But agreed, on a 4.5ft tank you would definitely need 2 to get a really good wave...

 

As for the UV, it's good for stopping the spread of disease from one tank to another if you've got multiple tanks connected together, but if there is a disease out break in one tank, the disease is already there, and the UV is not going to do much to stop it... I just feel for the amount of money a UV can cost, you'll be dissapointed in the fact you won't see it do much... As for the carbon, it will make sure your water doesn't get that ugly yellow tinge to it, and will also help to reduce chemical warefare between sps corals... The reason i say put it in a two-little-fishies reactor is because you can then pump the water through it which is more effective (active) than putting it in a bag in your sump (passive)...

 

On the other hand, if you want to go all out, look in to "ozone"... According to everyone i've asked who runs it, their water has never looked clearer, their fish are healthier, and their whole tank functions better, but, it costs lots and lots of dollars....

 

:D

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Haha, running up two MP40W's would definitely be awesome :D!

But agreed, on a 4.5ft tank you would definitely need 2 to get a really good wave...

 

As for the UV, it's good for stopping the spread of disease from one tank to another if you've got multiple tanks connected together, but if there is a disease out break in one tank, the disease is already there, and the UV is not going to do much to stop it... I just feel for the amount of money a UV can cost, you'll be dissapointed in the fact you won't see it do much... As for the carbon, it will make sure your water doesn't get that ugly yellow tinge to it, and will also help to reduce chemical warefare between sps corals... The reason i say put it in a two-little-fishies reactor is because you can then pump the water through it which is more effective (active) than putting it in a bag in your sump (passive)...

 

On the other hand, if you want to go all out, look in to "ozone"... According to everyone i've asked who runs it, their water has never looked clearer, their fish are healthier, and their whole tank functions better, but, it costs lots and lots of dollars....

 

:D

 

Thanks for all the explanations!!! I truly appreciate it! Stay along for the ride, I'll have more questions for you I'm sure as I begin buying all the components.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are the CAD designs for the Peninsula style....let me know your thoughts. Note that the brown is to represent the bracing, hence the hole must avoid it. Also, the tank will be rimless, so ignore the lip!!!

 

Jon_Kunzman_-_Side_Overflow_-_01.jpg

 

Jon_Kunzman_-_Side_Overflow_-_02.jpg

 

Jon_Kunzman_-_Side_Overflow_-_03.jpg

 

Jon_Kunzman_-_Side_Overflow_-_04.jpg

 

Jon_Kunzman_-_Side_Overflow_-_05.jpg

 

Thoughts??? Ideas???

 

Thanks all!!!

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looks like it will hold water, with the overflow being on the end of the tank, I'm interested to hear about powerhead location and what the flow pattern will be. the only advantage of having an overflow on the end is for a tank that is viewable by 3 sides, if this is the intention, I believe putting two vortex's on each side of the overflow would be the best bet. This set up does best in room divider situations. I tend to disagree with what owned162 said about UV. He personally probably has success without it and says you "won't see it do much", as you have seen the progression in my tank Jon, you saw that before I had the UV I had many problems with fish related illnesses, most common ich. After applying the UV I never have had a run in with ich again. Ich is a parasite that is free floating, to say that once its in the tank, UV does not do anything is incorrect. Proper fish nutrition and the use of UV will quickly remove the problem of ich in the aquarium. As with water clarity, UV will decrease nuisance algae and clear the water, it does not polish water like carbon does, but with running phosban, having a good skimmer and UV, water will be crystal clear, for proof...come over to my house.

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looks like it will hold water, with the overflow being on the end of the tank, I'm interested to hear about powerhead location and what the flow pattern will be. the only advantage of having an overflow on the end is for a tank that is viewable by 3 sides, if this is the intention, I believe putting two vortex's on each side of the overflow would be the best bet. This set up does best in room divider situations. I tend to disagree with what owned162 said about UV. He personally probably has success without it and says you "won't see it do much", as you have seen the progression in my tank Jon, you saw that before I had the UV I had many problems with fish related illnesses, most common ich. After applying the UV I never have had a run in with ich again. Ich is a parasite that is free floating, to say that once its in the tank, UV does not do anything is incorrect. Proper fish nutrition and the use of UV will quickly remove the problem of ich in the aquarium. As with water clarity, UV will decrease nuisance algae and clear the water, it does not polish water like carbon does, but with running phosban, having a good skimmer and UV, water will be crystal clear, for proof...come over to my house.

 

 

I run the submariner UV in my 25 right now....and plan on having a UV in the 135 regardless....with the phosban I currently run, an upgraded skimmer, calcium reactor, and possibly an active carbon reactor of some sort.

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Thanks for all the explanations!!! I truly appreciate it! Stay along for the ride, I'll have more questions for you I'm sure as I begin buying all the components.

 

No problem, definitely plan on hanging around for the ride :)

 

Here are the CAD designs for the Peninsula style....let me know your thoughts. Note that the brown is to represent the bracing, hence the hole must avoid it. Also, the tank will be rimless, so ignore the lip!!!

 

Jon_Kunzman_-_Side_Overflow_-_01.jpg

 

Jon_Kunzman_-_Side_Overflow_-_02.jpg

 

Jon_Kunzman_-_Side_Overflow_-_03.jpg

 

Jon_Kunzman_-_Side_Overflow_-_04.jpg

 

Jon_Kunzman_-_Side_Overflow_-_05.jpg

 

Thoughts??? Ideas???

 

Thanks all!!!

 

Looks good :)

I'd just be a bit worried about no support under the opposite end to the overflow... Is there a reason there's no wood there?

 

EDIT: Sorry, just remember what your stand looks like, ignore that no wood comment lol :P

 

looks like it will hold water, with the overflow being on the end of the tank, I'm interested to hear about powerhead location and what the flow pattern will be. the only advantage of having an overflow on the end is for a tank that is viewable by 3 sides, if this is the intention, I believe putting two vortex's on each side of the overflow would be the best bet. This set up does best in room divider situations. I tend to disagree with what owned162 said about UV. He personally probably has success without it and says you "won't see it do much", as you have seen the progression in my tank Jon, you saw that before I had the UV I had many problems with fish related illnesses, most common ich. After applying the UV I never have had a run in with ich again. Ich is a parasite that is free floating, to say that once its in the tank, UV does not do anything is incorrect. Proper fish nutrition and the use of UV will quickly remove the problem of ich in the aquarium. As with water clarity, UV will decrease nuisance algae and clear the water, it does not polish water like carbon does, but with running phosban, having a good skimmer and UV, water will be crystal clear, for proof...come over to my house.

 

Thanks for your input t4 :)

I should have said, for the UV that's just my opinion, many people will have different views on whether it works or not, and for t4 it obviously works :D

I would love to come check out your tank t4, but unfortunately i live in Australia :( lol...

 

I run the submariner UV in my 25 right now....and plan on having a UV in the 135 regardless....with the phosban I currently run, an upgraded skimmer, calcium reactor, and possibly an active carbon reactor of some sort.

 

Sounds good :)

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No problem, definitely plan on hanging around for the ride :)

 

 

 

Looks good :)

I'd just be a bit worried about no support under the opposite end to the overflow... Is there a reason there's no wood there?

 

EDIT: Sorry, just remember what your stand looks like, ignore that no wood comment lol :P

 

Actually the ends are identical in terms of bracing in reality; for the cad design I only showed the end bracing for the side I had the overflow go on. :D

 

I was just lazy!!! Don't worry, I've been asked the same thing a few times now. That's the internal bracing, and then on top is the solid top shown in pictures, which will be drilled for the overflow placement.

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Well seeing as though I have one Vortech MP40W already, I took advantange of the GB and got a second MP40W...I will use these on either side of the overflow box, and synch them using the crescent wave reef mode.....should be sweet, and along with dual return lines, I should be able to avoid additional powerheads.

 

Thoughts??? It was either two of the these, or a tunze wavebox.

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Well seeing as though I have one Vortech MP40W already, I took advantange of the GB and got a second MP40W...I will use these on either side of the overflow box, and synch them using the crescent wave reef mode.....should be sweet, and along with dual return lines, I should be able to avoid additional powerheads.

 

Thoughts??? It was either two of the these, or a tunze wavebox.

 

Thoughts = YAY :D:D:D

Sounds good to me :)

They should provide awesome flow :)

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i was always under the impression acrylic tanks needed to be braced fully or as fully as possible underneath to prevent possible failure.

 

or is this tank going to be glass?

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i was always under the impression acrylic tanks needed to be braced fully or as fully as possible underneath to prevent possible failure.

 

or is this tank going to be glass?

 

You're correct...you just didn't read. :)

 

The CAD design shows bracing only to determine overflow and return locations, the stand itself does have a solid top....see picture below.

Aquarium003.jpg

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