foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 1/8" plywood cut into rough strips. I'm using 6 strips to make a 3/4" sandwich of wood. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 The 6 pieces of 3/4" MDF will give me a bending form 4 and 1/2" tall. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 I used the base of the aga 7 gallon mini bow as the outside curve of the form and traced it onto one piece of the MDF. This piece will eventually become the master template for the bending form. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 I measured 7/8" from the outside line to find the inside line and drew a curve. I left an extra 1/8" for some padding that will compensate for inperfections in the form. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Using my jigsaw I removed the material between the lines to rough out the template. The instructions on diynet suggest using a bandsaw but I don't have room for one of those in my garage. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 I smoothed out the rough cut of the form using alot of patience a rasp, file and sandpaper to complete the inside and outside of the master template for the bending form. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 I transferred the line from the master template to each of the 5 other pieces of MDF. I then used my jigsaw to rough cut the 5 pieces. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 I glued and screwed the master tempate to the top of one of the roughed out pieces of MDF and took it to the router table where I had a 1" long flush trim bit with a bearing installed. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Here's a shot of the 2nd iteration at the router table with the inside of the form. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 The operation of alternatingly gluing and flusing trim at the router table was repeated 5 times for the inside and outside parts of the form to complete bending form. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 I taped some foam padding to the inside portion of the outer bending form. The diynet guy used cork but I didn't have any. I then used the gorilla glue tsalter suggested and applied it to each face of the inner strips of the sandwich. I did not glue the outside facing pieces of course. I took the glued up sandwich and clamped the whole assembly together. You need good clamps for this part because of all of the springback. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 After letting the glue cure I released it from the form and cleaned up the outside and inside edges on my table saw. since I don't have a jointer. Another tool I need to buy someday. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 I need to rabbit the inside of the bottom of the bentwood sandwich and create the other 3 sides to finish the sides of the hood but you get the idea. Link to comment
foo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 I didn't include all of the details since you can go to diynet.com and find more detailed instructions. I don't think the Gorilla Glue is what the guy on diynet uses since this stuff foams a bit when you use it and his doesn't. I might try the other glue, titebond2, tsalter suggested next time to see if it's better to work with. Even though my completed sandwich of wood is oak veneered I think I might just paint it black to match the plastic trim so I don't need to make a matching base. I might never finish my nano project if I tried to do everything I wanted. It's bad enough I'm making everything from scratch. When I finish my nano project I'll post steps in my DIY hood build, incuding these bent wood pics, my DIY pendant and reflector, my DIY fan setup, my DIY chiller and other DIY crap I dream up. I haven't completed the fan or chiller builds still trying to work out problems there. I'll finish someday, I'm sure of it. Link to comment
tsalter Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 foo great job. I wasn't thinking about the lamination properties of the gorrilla glue. I was just thinking that it was real water resistant. Sorry. I hope the thickness of it wasn't too bad to deal with. Titebond 2 is just like regular wood glue so it lams well and is water resistant. looks great though. can't wait to see it all. T Link to comment
MattGecko Posted August 19, 2003 Author Share Posted August 19, 2003 Good to see more canopys being made. Looking good Foo. The 1/8" solid oak bends with no problem. Although I did have to go back and reglue the ends. I still have to cut an extra inch off the left side. I used lots of clamps & a strap. Just checking the fit, so far so good. Looks kinda like a Russian hat (new canopy will be 5" tall, old one is 3" tall). Link to comment
foo Posted August 20, 2003 Share Posted August 20, 2003 tsalter - the Gorilla Glue wasn't bad to work with just a little messy to work with. The clamping pressure squeezed out any excess glue though I think maybe titebond 2 would be better to use for the next time. The gorilla glue seems to be holding up just fine. MattGecko - I like your top. You're using only a single sheet of 1/8" wood, a nice solution. Lots of clamps are definitely needed for this bending stuff. I could have done with one more and it looks like you could have made use of another one too during your build. Link to comment
MattGecko Posted August 20, 2003 Author Share Posted August 20, 2003 Foo, I was planning on glueing the two 1/8" thick pieces together, so the bow would be 1/4" thick. After looking at it, it's strong enough & I'm going to keep it at 1/8" on the front & 1/4" on the sides. How tall is your canopy & are you going to add an 70W HQI? Link to comment
foo Posted August 20, 2003 Share Posted August 20, 2003 MattGecko - My wood is 4 and 1/2" wide but I think I need to take off another 1/8" to smooth it out. I want to rabbit out 7/8" to hide the black plastic trim, making the effective height of the hood only 3 and 1/2". I do plan on putting in a 70W HQI MH. It's a little short to mount inside the hood. I already formed a pendant out of sheet metal. So I plan to make a rectanular opening in the top of the hood for the pendant. Below the pendant I want to mount a second piece of glass and run a fan to blow the heat out. You may want to consider laminating the second piece of wood to the front if you think there may be a problem with springback. Did you ever get your custom piece of tempered glass? Link to comment
MattGecko Posted August 20, 2003 Author Share Posted August 20, 2003 Foo The 1/8" is very strong, I don't think there will be any problem. I am kinda stuck on the 70W HQI. I havent checked in to the glass yet. I am thinking of trying a small halogen fixtrure. I found a one that is 3" tall. I will post a pic & link to it later tonight when I get home. Ok heres what I was thinking, mount this inside the canopy. Diecast Floodlight http://www.usalight.com I will drill about 50 holes on the left and right side of the fixture, attach a small fan blowing in to one side of the light. Using the $20 fixture, the only other thing I will need is the bulb (already have M85 ballast). What do you think? Link to comment
foo Posted August 21, 2003 Share Posted August 21, 2003 MattGecko - That looks similar to the Regent 500W halogen flood from Home Depot. Is that what you're going to buy? Or is that one too big? I think they're only like $10 or $12. The halogen fixture retrofit could work and it's probably the cheapest way to go. Some people have had problems fitting the bulb into the halogen lampholders since the distance between the ends is different but I don't have any personal experience there. Assuming it fits, you propose to mount the fixture inside your hood? I have two small reservations about that. If you have the venting holes you propose you will be venting the hot air from inside the fixture into the hood. The air flow will be pretty restricted unless you have enough holes. Perhaps it's not a problem and maybe that's the only way if you're going to have an enclosed hood. What about just blowing the air around the fixture and allow it to vent out the open back of the hood? You will have more evaporation that way but maybe you'll just have to accept that since that may be necessary because I think I saw you post somewhere that you weren't going to have a chiller right? Evaporative cooling may be the only way for you to go in that case. Link to comment
MattGecko Posted August 21, 2003 Author Share Posted August 21, 2003 Foo The regent fixture is 4" tall, the one from USAlight is 3" tall. I'll take a trip over to home depot to check out there fixtures. maybe I'll find something. My canopy bing 5" tall, I really only have 3 3/4" - 4" of useable space inside the canopy. I was planning on the 70W bulb not fitting, just another thing to mod. I was think on the back left side of the canopy, I'd have one 4" fan blowing in. Cut a 2"-3" circle out of both sides of the MH fixture, (left side) put a 3" fan blowing in & another one blowing out on the right side. But, what if I attached a 3" exhaust line & ran it to the back of the canopy? What do I use for the exhaust line? Link to comment
foo Posted August 21, 2003 Share Posted August 21, 2003 MattGecko - Sounds like it will be difficult to mount. But I would think that whatever you use that contacts the fixture directly will need to be able to take over 100 degrees C. I've heard of 105 degrees C rated wiring melting in 150W pendants before and I would guess our 70W will make just about as much heat. Maybe use some sort of high temperature insulation material? Maybe use metal? sheet metal formed into a duct? I don't know. Link to comment
MattGecko Posted August 21, 2003 Author Share Posted August 21, 2003 The pendants at Usalighting are 300 & 500 watt, so the heat from a 70 watt should not be a problem. Crap how do I attach the fans to the fixtrue with out them melting? Maybe, hook the exhaust tube up to the fixture & a fan at the end blowing out. Might work.... Make an aluminum formed duct, I like that idea, thanks. Do you have any new pics, of your project. Link to comment
foo Posted August 21, 2003 Share Posted August 21, 2003 No new pics yet. I won't have time to work on it until this weekend. I guess I'm a little paranoid about heat because when I was testing my pendant the heat from the pendant cracked the glass shield. Of course when I was testing those WPI ballasts my pendant was upside down so more heat than normal was going into the glass and the glass is only about an inch away from the bulb in my pendant. So I think that heat from the 70W HQI possibly may be a problem. I need to go to a glass shop and buy a piece of tempered glass this time. I've already spent some money to get high temperatrue, high voltage wire. Link to comment
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