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25G ADA TANK 18X18X18" RIMLESS CUBE


PurpleUP

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Got this posted on RC? I seriously think you could contend for tank of the month.

 

Funny. The corals in this tank actually have some beauty pagent experience. In my BC14, most of them were big contributers to NTOTM in Aug '07. I believe we were supposed to run a nano tank of the year contest with all of the RC winners of 2007, but I am wondering if my new tank will qualify. The BC14 was already broken down, but the corals live on in here. It might have a better chance if the live rock were covered in coralline, zoanthids, and this blue coral we're trying to ID. Multi-colored monti caps swirling at the back left corner would give this cube much more character, but that takes TIME. I think I would enter it just for kicks in NTOTY if the contest actually happens.

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Looks like these two genera are hard to tell about just by images. I found these pics:

 

Sansibia

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_...p;x=31&y=11

 

Clavularia

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_...d_mh=clavularia

 

 

Funny thing, fads for corals. LOL! Never knew fads in reefing existed before today. Maybe there'll be an ADA reef tank fad.

 

I think you may have started one! :)

 

--Diane

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So here's what I've found from my own research this morning.

 

4" of Blue Anthelia from Pacific East Aquaculture on sale online for $69.

S%20O1304%204%20I%2099%20Bright%20Blue%20Anthelia.jpg

 

SPS20, I squirted my larger colony more than 10 times with a turkey baster. They only shrank or "deflated" instead of closing-up. Does that make them Anthelia or not? Sure looks like it, based on the link above. Mine just look crazier purplish-blue from the 20K lighting! BAMM!!!

 

Here are closer shots of my stuff.

120807anthelia1.jpg

 

Anthelia Frag! (or whatever it is) Speaking of FADS, what do you say we start an Anthelia frag fad? This one's already fastened to a piece of live rubble. WHO WANTS TO TRADE?!@#! No reef is complete without it. This stuff will make your tank literally EXPLODE with color. LOL

120807anthelia2.jpg

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Looks like these two genera are hard to tell about just by images. I found these pics:

 

Sansibia

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_...p;x=31&y=11

 

Clavularia

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_...d_mh=clavularia

I think you may have started one! :)

 

--Diane

 

The polyps are very close in resemblance to both Sansibia AND Clavularia, but so far I'm sold on simple bright blue Anthelia.

 

As far as the ADA fad, I'd have to give credit to Helfrich’s Chick. Her ADA thread inspired me to get mine. But I just haven't got the balls to go completely filterless!

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Funny thing, fads for corals. LOL! Never knew fads in reefing existed before today. Maybe there'll be an ADA reef tank fad. Hmmm. So silly.

 

Just watch. In 5 years, Acans will have been spread to too many tanks to maintain the current pricing, hobbyists will have learned to frag them easily, and they will cost no more than any other brain coral.

 

An article on the subject: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-08/ebac/index.php

 

go for it! the guys over on RC would sh#t a brick if the TOTM was running a Rapids Pro system. ha :P

 

I think one day I will have to take a 10 or 20 gallon aquarium, put an undergravel filter on it and light it with a halogen light, FILL it with corals, take a picture, and post it on reef central. It would be so funny to see the reactions there. Maybe I'll put 3 or 4 tangs in it too to cause some real trouble. Of course I would immediately break the tank down, but the reactions would be priceless.

 

S%20O1304%204%20I%2099%20Bright%20Blue%20Anthelia.jpg

 

Thats the exact stuff I have! Mine even has the same maroon encrusting between polyps. Its coralline I assume, but who knows.

 

Oh, and I squirted mine with a baster. It doesn't close up like I thought I remembered it doing, it just shrinks up really small. So, I guess its Anthelia, as I originally thought. I'm pretty certain we both have anthelia.

 

- Josh

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Just watch. In 5 years, Acans will have been spread to too many tanks to maintain the current pricing, hobbyists will have learned to frag them easily, and they will cost no more than any other brain coral.

 

An article on the subject: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-08/ebac/index.php

 

Excellent article, Josh! Thanks for posting it. I can easily see myself posting it in a lot of threads here...

 

Thats the exact stuff I have! Mine even has the same maroon encrusting between polyps. Its coralline I assume, but who knows.

 

Oh, and I squirted mine with a baster. It doesn't close up like I thought I remembered it doing, it just shrinks up really small. So, I guess its Anthelia, as I originally thought. I'm pretty certain we both have anthelia.

 

- Josh

 

Aside from the discussion on artificially created coral fads for profit, the article you posted also had a Borneman term I'm going to borrow and use a lot--"armchair taxonomy." That's exactly what we all commit, ID'ing so many things from just a tiny pic posted online. I know that a lot of retailers (and no doubt wholesalers) routinely sell mislabeled specimens. Of course, it's been ever thus in any biology-related hobby you can think of, be it orchids, FW, SW, you name it.

 

That said, there is a lot to be said for having an "agreed upon" name, whether it is taxonomically correct or not. (Think "kribensis" :)). For most purposes in the hobby we simply want to be sure we're talking about the same thing, with its concommitant knowns--growth habits, food needs, etc.

 

But some of us really would like to have as much correlation between "agreed upon" names and "currently taxonomically correct" names as possible! (Everything's complicated, of course, by the labile state of marine taxonomy.)

 

If in fact the deflation distinction (between Anthelia & Clavularia) I quoted from Sprung is correct (and I see no reason to doubt it at this point), it is one of the few telling characters we can seize upon for some peace of mind! Unfortunately, as Borneman repeatedly points out, confident taxonomy usually requires a skeleton and/or sclerites...

 

--Diane

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I think "armchair taxonomists" can be farily accurate, at least to the genus level. I mean, we have to at least try to identify what we have. With only a few exceptions, many corals can be positively ID'ed to the genus level with just a good macro photo, and knowledge of how the coral reacts in certain circumstances. (Like the "turkey baster test" we have devised to tell the difference between Anthelia and Clavularia)

 

Sure, we are probably wrong some of the time, but I think we are probably right alot of the time.

 

As for the fad thing, I knew we were in the midst of a craze when I saw a Acan listed on ebay for over $1000.00. NO CORAL IS WORTH THAT MUCH. Nothing that can grow and be asexually propagated without having to be fed chunks of platinum and diamond is worth anything near that much. You know its a fad when some jerk starts labeling his corals as "limited edition" as if he/she somehow made them from scratch.

 

Personally, I would like to see the hobby reach the point when frag swaps are the primary means of obtaining livestock, and coral farmers who try to charge many multiples of the true cost of growing a coral are laughed at and dismissed as the snake oil salesmen they are. Coral propagation is not some arcane mystery that only experts can participate in. All it requires is a healthy tank, some coral, pruning shears, a rock, and some glue. Nothing that is so easy to do should ever fetch prices in excess of the cost of the lighting system on the tank it grows in. Its one thing to make some profit. Its another thing to match the cost of a down payment on a new car for something which only took a few months to grow.

 

*rant over*

 

- Josh

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If in fact the deflation distinction (between Anthelia & Clavularia) I quoted from Sprung is correct (and I see no reason to doubt it at this point), it is one of the few telling characters we can seize upon for some peace of mind! Unfortunately, as Borneman repeatedly points out, confident taxonomy usually requires a skeleton and/or sclerites...

 

--Diane

 

It feels settling, to say the least, that we are referring to this coral as to what we confidently believe is it's correct taxonomy. To know what we keep in our tank or to at least know the common understanding of what we keep, enables us to give them better care and resulting better advice to others. Now unless someone is willing to obtain a skeletal sample from me and prove us wrong, I'd say we've been looking at a true Anthelia here. Now who wants a frag for trade? Let's spread the love (that's the old techno-hippy in me).

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Feast your eyes on a Limited Edition Crocea Clam that I won from my LFS auction today for only $1000!

 

120807crocea1.jpg

 

120807crocea2.jpg

 

120807crocea3.jpg

 

120807crocea4.jpg

 

Just kidding, Josh. $29 for the clam and I thought that was too much. Especially lately, I've noticed the LFS pitching me rare SPS frags at astronomical prices. What bothers me most about that is they look EXACTLY THE SAME as your comparable common varieties. The only real difference is that someone discovered one and named it after himself.

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Mini Fuge?

 

Shown is a wet/dry sump for a Rapids Pro filter. You know how we're always thinking about how we can maximize our equipment. Can anyone give me their opinion on whether or not there would be any benefit to growing chaeto in here? Not only that, but being the most turbulent spot in the system, can chaeto even grow in it? I can light it from the outside with an inexpensive CF due to the clear canister. The growing area would be very small, restricted to the rectangular section outlined in the pic. And let's say I decide to try it, should I run a reverse lighting schedule for such a small volume vs the size of my 25G tank? To take it one step further, could pods survive and produce with so much turbulence?

120807fuge1.jpg

 

120807fuge2.jpg

 

 

Now what if I added this component to the mix? Notice 2 water levels. The saltwater from the lower level flows back and forth from the sump connected via the coiled blue tube. The water container above it is actually freshwater for auto-refilling the system. Can chaeto grow inside here with only 2.5" of height and very little to no water movement?

120807fuge3.jpg

I also posted this in the Refugium section for more exposure. Thanks for your help.

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Can anyone give me their opinion on whether or not there would be any benefit to growing chaeto in here? Not only that, but being the most turbulent spot in the system, can chaeto even grow in it?

 

I don't see why not, so long as the turbulence doesn't tear it into bits.

 

... should I run a reverse lighting schedule for such a small volume vs the size of my 25G tank? To take it one step further, could pods survive and produce with so much turbulence?

 

Not sure if you'd see a pH difference, but there is no reason not to try a reverse photoperiod and see.

 

As for the pods... I wouldn't count on this area being a pod haven.

 

Can chaeto grow inside here with only 2.5" of height and very little to no water movement?

 

It would grow, but not very fast. To maximize the benefits of chaeto, you really need to give it some water movement.

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hows your clam, miss?

 

Nips,

My Clam is a happy Clam:) , I'll send ya a pic tonite.

 

Randy,

You picked a very nice one too!

 

 

.........I'm collecting stuff from random tanks ppl...Keep them coral pieces coming :lol: heehee

THank YOU Randy and Nips!!

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Nips,

My Clam is a happy Clam:) , I'll send ya a pic tonite.

 

Randy,

You picked a very nice one too!

 

 

.........I'm collecting stuff from random tanks ppl...Keep them coral pieces coming :lol: heehee

THank YOU Randy and Nips!!

 

Hey, patty. The tubs made it alright. Only the larger half of them opened up today though. I'm sure they'll be fine. Thanks again!

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hey i know this is off topic, but what kind of skimmer did you use on your biocube and where can i find it?

thanks

 

Man, I tried MULTIPLE HOB skimmers from the CPR backpack to the Rio Nano Skimmer. None of them worked well or made any difference to the quality of my water since I changed it once a week anyway. Do you own a BC14? If so, I recommend doing without one. Smaller tanks like that are just fine without. For a while, I was even thinking about not running a skimmer of this 25G ADA, but I figured my SPS wouldn't appreciate that. Good luck.

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Hey, patty. The tubs made it alright. Only the larger half of them opened up today though. I'm sure they'll be fine. Thanks again!

 

 

I'm so glad to hear that Randy! please post progress pics as i know they will thrive in your tank. :)

post-30046-1197402268_thumb.jpg

post-30046-1197402297_thumb.jpg

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I'm so glad to hear that Randy! please post progress pics as i know they will thrive in your tank. :)

 

Torch looks great, Patty! As you've probably already found out, the torch gets about 5 times bigger than that when it's happy. I'd like to see the baby stub on the right grow out again. Good luck with it.

 

Here are the tubs you got me now mounted to a rock of it's own (with IC gel). So far it's only opened up half of it's polyps, but I'll keep close watch. I'm really hoping that someday these blues cover most of the rock. I'll likely mix it with orange, being that I'm a Warriors fan.

121107tubs.jpg

 

Continuing on with the BLUE theme, I replaced my clear air tubes with blue for the aqua lifter. Looks slick and hides algae better.

121107aqua.jpg

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what do u suggest is a good ATO? did the one in the pic come with the setup? i have a 14 bc

 

The one pictured is an add-on to the Rapids Pro, and it can't be used independently. For a BC14, I would suggest using the same one I used to run on mine: JBJ ATO. In the 3rd chamber, you can very easily use the clip mounts to hang TWO sensors at the same time. The 1st sensor activates the freshwater refill and the 2nd sensor (hung upside down) is an emergency fail safe if for whatever reason your 1st sensor should fail to cut the water off. Let me know if you need help with the install if you decide to purchase one.

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I almost gave up on my Chili coral after it hadn't extended it's polyps in 2 weeks. It was placed deep inside the cave where absolutely no light would shine. 2 days ago, I brought it out closer to a cave entrance on the right side of the tank. Here's what it looked like this morning.

 

with the lights off (using camera flash)

121207chili1.jpg

 

with the lights on

121207chili2.jpg

 

you can see the extension of another branch in the back

121207chili3.jpg

 

It quickly closed once the lights came on. Weird behavior. I know it's non-photosynthetic, but I'm surprised how it's been able to live for 7mos now with such infrequent polyp extension. Hopefully it's content in the new spot and does this on a regular basis, so I can direct feed it.

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Filter-feeding corals like chili coral can be sooooo fickle. I have seen hitchhiker dendroneptheas get enormous with NO care at all, and I have seen people put all kinds of effort into keeping certain filter feeders only to have them die anyway.

 

I have a feeling that they need very particular amounts of water flow. Too much, they can't capture particles before they wash away, and too slow and they just don't get enough to eat. Obviously yours doesn't like light much.

 

Regardless, its one neat looking creature.

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The one pictured is an add-on to the Rapids Pro, and it can't be used independently. For a BC14, I would suggest using the same one I used to run on mine: JBJ ATO. In the 3rd chamber, you can very easily use the clip mounts to hang TWO sensors at the same time. The 1st sensor activates the freshwater refill and the 2nd sensor (hung upside down) is an emergency fail safe if for whatever reason your 1st sensor should fail to cut the water off. Let me know if you need help with the install if you decide to purchase one.

Im thinking about buying that one. Another thing is would i be able to dose with that ato or would i have to buy a doser?

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Im thinking about buying that one. Another thing is would i be able to dose with that ato or would i have to buy a doser?

 

IMO, dosing via ATO on a 14 gallon tank is risky b/c so many things can happen which will cause your ATO to activate unexpectedly. For example, if you remove anything from your tank, bringing the water level down slightly, the ATO will quickly replenish before you realize it. If you change water and forget to turn off your ATO, the same thing will happen. See the sensors activate so quickly that by the time you've realized what you've done to set it off, you've already got replacement water in your tank. If it's only freshwater than no big deal, but if it's Kalkwasser then your pH, alkalinity, and calcium can reach risky levels fast, causing precipitation and your pumps to freeze. I say this from experience. I had to buy replacement gear and soak my pumps in vinegar for 3 weeks before I got them to work again. Only advanced reefers should dose from ATO. What are you keeping by the way? Are you sure you need to dose? If so, yes, buy a doser.

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Here's an FTS I entered in the Nano Tank of the Year contest on that other site. Maybe I'll swap it out if I can catch a pic of the firefish, clowns, shrimps, and coco-worm all in one family portrait. Who knows if that'll ever happen though. I think it's cool that there are 2 other peeps from my local reef club in the same contest. Wish us luck.

frntfts.jpg

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