dasstheboss Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Here is a list of all my equipment and livestockfor my upcoming 75 Gallon reef; i just need you guys to tell the good, bad and the ugly. Fish (added in this order): 2.Black and White Ocellaris Clownfish 2.True Percula Clownfish 1.Purple Firefish 3.Royal Gramma 4.Blue Hippo Tang 4. Yellow Tang 5.Green Mandarin ( add after 6 months and when i see pods on my tank glass) Sand: aragmax Sand 30lbs. Seaflor Special Reef Sand 40lbs. Live Rock (added in this order): 1. Fiji Premium Live Rock 45lbs. 2. Fiji Premium Live Rock 45lbs. 3. Tonga Branch Live Rock 22lbs. All the listed above will be from liveaquaria.com 4. More live rock from lfs if necessary Equipment: Hydor Koralia 850gph Powerhead (2) Two Directional U-Tubes Rio 1400 420gph Pump (any comments?) PS160 Odyssea Skimmer (willing to try it) Azoo 300W Heater 48" Glass Canopy 30L Sump and Fuge Lighting: 48" Aluminum Reflector with 2 Mogul Sockets built-in 175W Ballastwise MH Ballast (2) 175W Iwasaki 15000K Bulb (2) 420nm T-5 HO Bulb (2) 2x 54W T-5 HO Ballastwise Ballast 70W DIY Metal Halide w/ 6500K Bulb All except the fuge light will be placed in a Sedona canopy with cooling fan running across the tank from one side ot the other. Corals: Bubble Coral Pipe Organ Stardust Yellow Colony Colt Yellow Fiji Leather Blue 'Shrooms Frogspawn Hairy 'Shroom Hammer Xenia Cauliflower Colt More to come... will be mostly lps and softies though. Inverts: CUC: 5x Mexican Turbo Snail 10x Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab 10x Nassarius Snail 5x Astrea Snail 10x Cerith Snail 5x Nerite Snail 10x Blue Leg Hermit Crab Feather Duster (2) Blood Fire Shrimp Scarlet Skunk Cleaner (2) All suggestions are welcome... Also, here is my idea for the sump: I want 12" on the sump sectioned off for Skimmer; a bubble trap; insert slots for various media pads such as phosphate, floss, etc. space for return pump; and the rest will be devoted to the fuge. If the fuge turns out too big, then i will add another chamber for live rock rubble. Link to comment
Prowland Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 why would you add the base rock 3rd? Link to comment
dasstheboss Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 i want ot add just enough rock to suit my aquascaping needs, i can add the live rock first 90lbs. in two shipments and if i need more, then i can add the base. The base is mearly for aquascaping if i dont have enuf LR. Link to comment
Prowland Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 I am assuming you mean base as in dead rock... I call base rock the rock that has no neat shapes, just good for a base to stack more interesting peices. I would also mix up the snails more. The more diverse the crowd the better! Link to comment
dasstheboss Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Ok thanks, how does this sound: 10x nassarius 10x astrea 10x turbo Link to comment
reefone Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 might want to go bigger on the sump. Link to comment
dasstheboss Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Im not mad or anything but how does the sump size effect anything? i thought it was just a place where you put stuff in to hide from display. I have heard people say that a sump should be 0.5-0.75 size of the display. I see that this is due an overflow scenario but if i place my returns and drains up high and fill my 20 with just a bit of water.. will it help? Also, if thats not possible, could i go with a 30L sump? Link to comment
Prowland Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 This is all IMO but I would go for Snails 10 nassarius vibex 20 margarita 10 turbo 10 Trochus 10 Certh 10 Nerite 2 Atlantic Sand Cucumber Hermits 10 Baha Red Leg 10 Blue Leg 10 Scarlet Reef Link to comment
dasstheboss Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 This is all IMO but I would go for Snails 10 nassarius vibex 20 margarita 10 turbo 10 Trochus 10 Certh 10 Nerite 2 Atlantic Sand Cucumber Hermits 10 Baha Red Leg 10 Blue Leg 10 Scarlet Reef Wouldn't that be overkill since they might starve due to not enough algae/ food? I was told that you should have 1-2 hermit per 10 lbs. of LR and 2 snails per 5G of water. I may be wrong but this is what i have been going by worked for me... Link to comment
Prowland Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 It wouldnt hurt to make the sump as large as possible as it will increase water volume. You could use some more intense light over the fuge Link to comment
dasstheboss Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 I will likely only have Hcaeto in the fuge, does it still need lots of light? Link to comment
musicawal Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 I would change your bulb choice even if your only going to have mostly softies and LPS. XM 15k's are basically the worst bulb you can get. The XM 20k even has more PAR than the 15k. Link to comment
dasstheboss Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Ok thanks, i will change the bulb Link to comment
musicawal Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Go to reeflighting.com. This is Sanjay's website ehere he has tested many light and ballast combos. It's very easy to use and with a little studying and time you can pick out the best bulb for your setup. Good luck. Link to comment
Monkeyrobb Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Don't get the clowns. Too cliche. Link to comment
dasstheboss Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 I like the clowns, they're my 2nd favorite after the mandarin. Sorry, but i cant get rid of them. I can maybe add anthias anyways instead of the jawfish but i will see if the bioload will be acceptable then. Link to comment
Maeda Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Equipment:Hydor Koralia 850gph Powerhead (2) SCWD Device w/ two directional U-tubes Rio 1400 420gph Pump (any comments?) PS160 Odyssea Skimmer (willing to try it) Azoo 300W Heater 48" Glass Canopy 20L Sump and Fuge Lighting: 48" Aluminum Reflector with 2 Mogul Sockets built-in 175W Ballastwise MH Ballast (2) 175W Hamilton 14000K Bulb (2) 420nm T-5 HO Bulb (2) 2x 54W T-5 HO Ballastwise Ballast 24W CF for fuge Don't waste your time with cheap RIO junk. You just end up getting shocked(i've had two melt down) Ditch the SCWD, and just plumb a real deal external like a panworld or genx or iwaki. You won't be sorry. I've heard intersting reports of the Odyssea Skimmer working well after a few mods. It's worth a shot. If if doesn't work or the mods are pricey, you may as well just get a real skimmer(smallest ER, octopus, tunze 9005, etc). If you're going to go through the trouble of using mogul bulbs why are you using any other then Iwasaki 15,000k? If you just need light for softies and lps, i'd stick with 150w HQIs. They're smaller and easier to deal with then the big honking moguls. If you stick with 175's why are screwing around with that? get 2xlumenarc III's, 2xiwasaki 15000k, and enjoy more light then most 250w can put out. Link to comment
dasstheboss Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Actually i thougt about getting the 150W Hqis but i thought they wouldn't be enough and hellolights said they would attach the mogul bases to the halides for no extra cost, so now i might reconsider, maybe the couple extra bucks might be worth it. Does a SE bulb produce more heat than a DE bulb? Link to comment
Maeda Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Actually i thougt about getting the 150W Hqis but i thought they wouldn't be enough and hellolights said they would attach the mogul bases to the halides for no extra cost, so now i might reconsider, maybe the couple extra bucks might be worth it. Does a SE bulb produce more heat than a DE bulb? SE bulbs and DE bulbs are pretty much identical. an SE bulb looks like a de bulb in a glass houseing with a screw in base. get 150hqis over 175w, because they put out as much light in many cases. unless you use a 175w iwasaki 15000k(which puts most 250w bulbs to shame). I feel like the heat is not really an issue. Weird to say but yah thats what I believe. Stick a fan over it. For such a big tank a couple 150w isnt really going to heat it up much. Link to comment
dasstheboss Posted May 24, 2007 Author Share Posted May 24, 2007 So if i were to go 175W SE Iwasaki, would i be able to keep ANYthing? The reason i like SE is because i heard they all have the same base so if i need ot upgrade, i just change the ballast, i dont gotta screw around with the canopy at all. Another random thing: Whats the biggest tank i could have with two Halides? Its ok if there are some "dark" spots cus i can keep filter feeders or low light stuff there. Would a 72" be too long? Link to comment
HecticDialectics Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 So if i were to go 175W SE Iwasaki, would i be able to keep ANYthing? The 175W iwasakis are crazy bulbs. They're brighter than most 250W bulbs. Don't skimp out on the reflectors though. Crappy reflectors can turn a great bulb into an average or even sub-par bulb. Link to comment
seahorsedreams Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Margaritas are cold water snails.... I really have no idea why people sell them. Too many turbos... those snails get HUGE. You don't want them starving in there. Sounds like it will be a pretty tank when you are all done. Skip the base rock. Buy a piece of LR from you LFS as you need it for fillers. Then you can pick out the shape that fits perfectly. I find baserock just loves to attract stuff like hair algae. Link to comment
Helfrichs Chick Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 ^ I like this chick. Were on the same page a lot of the time. No turbos, lol and no margs. Nas snails are killer for your sand, and astreas are great but acclimate slowly IME they seem to be very sensitive. Why not go for diffrent LR??? I know you might want to save $$ but IMO rock is not the place. It WILL be your paint to paint a picture with so to speak. Get Kalini, Tonga AND some Figi. IMO Marshal Island and Tonga is the prettiest. I have also noticed tonga makes for a VERY natural scape when all said and done. I am self dubbing myself the scape queen. I just did my friends 240g and it came out KILLER! Link to comment
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