lynxer Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Large batch of DIM4s will be in next week, if you havent gotten yours, this is the time to get your order in. Suweet. Is this batch sold out? or did i order in time? (nov25th) Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Suweet. Is this batch sold out? or did i order in time? (nov25th) Not sold out yet, I think we have a few more left. Link to comment
Fnard Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Quick question, so I have 2 1000ma buckpucks and a 24v 6.5A PS from a previous build, these would not be able to be used with this set-up? Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 Quick question, so I have 2 1000ma buckpucks and a 24v 6.5A PS from a previous build, these would not be able to be used with this set-up? If the buckpucks are dimmable, you can use it with a DIM4 if it except a 0-10v dimming on the buckpuck Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Great news! We got another batch in before the last batch sold out (Finally!) so now we have stock. The item is no longer pre order. Link to comment
DirtyC Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 could i use channel 1 and 2 with inventronics drivers and use the 500ma on channel 3 and 4 for exotic leds? Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Yes, but you'll need I believe 700mA to power the dim4, plus a max of 500mA per channel of leds wired direct, and I think 10mA for driver channels...milad may correct me if I'm wrong Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 (edited) I has a question. I have several of these drivers running a couple of LED strings. They are labeled as "Maxwellen" brand and they use potentiometers for dimming. Would it be possible to run these drivers with the DIM4? EDIT: Ok, I read through the PDF manual for it and it makes more sense and seems that I should be able to use it no problems as the drivers use 1-10v for dimming. Now I guess just how big of a power supply will I need for the DIM4? According to the manual: Varies. Total of your current loads + 100ma So if my four LED drivers are .75a, .75a, .75a, and .55a, I would need a 12v 2.9a power supply to connect to the DIM4? Thanks Milad! Edited March 5, 2012 by jedimasterben Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 I has a question. I have several of these drivers running a couple of LED strings. They are labeled as "Maxwellen" brand and they use potentiometers for dimming. Would it be possible to run these drivers with the DIM4? EDIT: Ok, I read through the PDF manual for it and it makes more sense and seems that I should be able to use it no problems as the drivers use 1-10v for dimming. Now I guess just how big of a power supply will I need for the DIM4? According to the manual: So if my four LED drivers are .75a, .75a, .75a, and .55a, I would need a 12v 2.9a power supply to connect to the DIM4? Thanks Milad! Its the dimming channel you need to add up not the output. Most of the time they are 10ma or something close to that so a 12v 500mA power supply + DIM4 will run those drivers well. If you want to add moonlights or fans etc etc then you should get a 5000mA driver (5a). Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 (edited) Its the dimming channel you need to add up not the output. Most of the time they are 10ma or something close to that so a 12v 500mA power supply + DIM4 will run those drivers well. If you want to add moonlights or fans etc etc then you should get a 5000mA driver (5a). As always, sir, you are a gentleman and a scholar. After I finish setting up this new tank I'm gonna order a pair of the DIM4's (one for each of my tanks), but it may be a while, the new tank has blown past my budget already. Gotta fine some more "submarine money", you know, the kind that goes under my wife's radar. Edited March 5, 2012 by jedimasterben Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Gotta fine some more "submarine money", you know, the kind that goes under my wife's radar. LOL We are stocking them decently now so there shouldnt be a shortage or anything. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 LOL We are stocking them decently now so there shouldnt be a shortage or anything. Very good, sir. I look forward to throwing money at you soon. Link to comment
davce99 Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Very good, sir. I look forward to throwing money at you soon. Exellent controller but i dont have money to buy Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 I have to say. None of our customers have came back and said, "Ya the controller is good" They all have been coming back and saying "Holy $%#^ this controller is amazing" Its a very good controller, we custom designed it for reefers in mind that have DIY lighting. Its not a controller designed to control your tank, its specifically designed for DIY lighting, period. That is why its so great! Link to comment
JayPagi Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Hey Milad... I have 2 drivers running at 750mA each (Mean Well ELN-60-48D) plus a 2 LED moonlight kit at 350mA. I'm also thinking of adding a cooling fan to my control box. Can I use the 12V 5A power supply on your website to power the DIM4 or should I find a different option at 2A? Is there a more suitable one for sale on your website? Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Hey Milad... I have 2 drivers running at 750mA each (Mean Well ELN-60-48D) plus a 2 LED moonlight kit at 350mA. I'm also thinking of adding a cooling fan to my control box. Can I use the 12V 5A power supply on your website to power the DIM4 or should I find a different option at 2A? Is there a more suitable one for sale on your website? 5A will be fine. The DIM4 will just take 2.1A or 3A or whatever it needs from the 12V 5A source. FYI just a heads up, most of the time the drivers at 0 voltage will still have the LEDs running so you need a timer or use the relay system in the DIM4 to cut power to the drivers. Link to comment
JayPagi Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 5A will be fine. The DIM4 will just take 2.1A or 3A or whatever it needs from the 12V 5A source. FYI just a heads up, most of the time the drivers at 0 voltage will still have the LEDs running so you need a timer or use the relay system in the DIM4 to cut power to the drivers. Great thanks! Link to comment
JayPagi Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 5A will be fine. The DIM4 will just take 2.1A or 3A or whatever it needs from the 12V 5A source. FYI just a heads up, most of the time the drivers at 0 voltage will still have the LEDs running so you need a timer or use the relay system in the DIM4 to cut power to the drivers. Milad, Can one relay cut the power for two drivers or do I need two relay's? Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 One relay can cut two drivers provided you have them wired together Link to comment
thever Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 I have wired up my 3UP LED's to the DIM4, 3 seperate channels, and added a fan to the relay. After testing the lights and timers, the fan would not turn off....did I fry the relay closed? I can find no information as to how much the fan draws. If I did kill that relay..any real cheap options for a heavier duty relay to be run off the 2nd one? Thanks! Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted April 21, 2012 Author Share Posted April 21, 2012 I have wired up my 3UP LED's to the DIM4, 3 seperate channels, and added a fan to the relay. After testing the lights and timers, the fan would not turn off....did I fry the relay closed? I can find no information as to how much the fan draws. If I did kill that relay..any real cheap options for a heavier duty relay to be run off the 2nd one? Thanks! Can you take a picture of the wiring the fan shouldnt fry on RL1 or RL3 Link to comment
thever Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 (edited) Can you take a picture of the wiringthe fan shouldnt fry on RL1 or RL3 At the time of the pic, the fan was running, if I remove the wires from channel 1and leave the fan on the relay, it still runs. I moved the fan to the channel 3 relay, and that works like its supposed to, but channel 1 is always on, no matter the time, load or no load. It is putting out 12v on the relays. For an experiment, I moved my NW's which are channel 3, to channel 4, but that channel has a problem, as that channel is supplying power all the time, the only way to turn off the lights are to lower the voltage. Did I get a bad DIM4? Edited April 22, 2012 by thever Link to comment
kcress Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Hi thever. I'm a little confused on this. I thought I had things figgered until you did your "experiment". Let me tell you what I know. You can't run all fans reliably on the DIM4 relay outputs. Some fans are serious current guzzlers. Those can indeed fry the drive transistor. You should keep the fan currents below 500mA. Looking at your fan wire, (cable actually), makes me think that fan is probably WAY too big, but that's just a guess. Most computer style fans have just "flying leads" or tiny "zip cord". When I see a 'cable' I start thinking BIG fan. You really need to identify your fan's current draw. If you can't see it on the label or look it up from a part number you should measure it. Use a DC ammeter set to more than an amp and hook the whole thing up directly to a 12V supply and SEE what it draws. (Only 12Vdc fans can be used!!) Please keep in mind that the DIM4's relay outputs are relay DRIVERS not relays. If you hook something like 120Vac fan to those terminals - as if they're a relay - you will likely cook a whole lot of things - LEDs, the DIM4, your LED drivers, yourself, your dog, the fish, etc. If you want to run fans that draw more than 500mA you need to use a relay and let the DIM4 drive the relay. Then you can hook -whatever- up thru the relay's contacts (based on the relay's ratings). If that fan is a guzzler, YES use an interposing relay. Now, If you've cooked the RLY1 drive transistor I would think you could use the RLY3 driver correctly and get back on track. The RLY3 driver kicks ON whenever the DIM4's channel 3 is active. You'd just switch your CH1 loads which would be controlling the now defunct RLY1 over to CH3 and the CH3 loads over to CH1 correct your settings and away you'd go. Any reason this wouldn't work for you? Link to comment
thever Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 (edited) Hi thever. I'm a little confused on this. I thought I had things figgered until you did your "experiment". Let me tell you what I know. You can't run all fans reliably on the DIM4 relay outputs. Some fans are serious current guzzlers. Those can indeed fry the drive transistor. You should keep the fan currents below 500mA. Looking at your fan wire, (cable actually), makes me think that fan is probably WAY too big, but that's just a guess. Most computer style fans have just "flying leads" or tiny "zip cord". When I see a 'cable' I start thinking BIG fan. You really need to identify your fan's current draw. If you can't see it on the label or look it up from a part number you should measure it. Use a DC ammeter set to more than an amp and hook the whole thing up directly to a 12V supply and SEE what it draws. (Only 12Vdc fans can be used!!) Please keep in mind that the DIM4's relay outputs are relay DRIVERS not relays. If you hook something like 120Vac fan to those terminals - as if they're a relay - you will likely cook a whole lot of things - LEDs, the DIM4, your LED drivers, yourself, your dog, the fish, etc. If you want to run fans that draw more than 500mA you need to use a relay and let the DIM4 drive the relay. Then you can hook -whatever- up thru the relay's contacts (based on the relay's ratings). If that fan is a guzzler, YES use an interposing relay. Now, If you've cooked the RLY1 drive transistor I would think you could use the RLY3 driver correctly and get back on track. The RLY3 driver kicks ON whenever the DIM4's channel 3 is active. You'd just switch your CH1 loads which would be controlling the now defunct RLY1 over to CH3 and the CH3 loads over to CH1 correct your settings and away you'd go. Any reason this wouldn't work for you? Last night, I unplugged the controller and removed the battery to clear things, and I checked things out this morning, the ch1 relay is still ever on, but the ch4 problem is now gone. I have my LEDs hooked to ch1,2,4 and the fan is hooked to channel 3 relay, kicking on a few minutes before I can see the LEDS beginning to glow. The fan is 80mm & 1700rpm and draws .24 amps(I just found out the amps, I looked everywhere online and the package.....it was on the fan ) The 'cable' is 18/2 stat wire to extend the fan out to the controller...I had it laying around. Edited April 22, 2012 by thever Link to comment
Fnard Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Thinking of setting up new lighting for my tank using the Aquastyle 14led Dim kit. Are the drivers they supply compatible with this DIM4? Was going to use 2 kits, but only 2 drivers, 1b 1w, assuming each driver on a separate channel and then using the remaining channels to power a couple reds or turqs. Now that I think of it, do I need the dimmable kit, includes pots, or will I be able to control dimming with the DIM4? Link to comment
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