Plumbing 101 - HELP! (long)

[Cavil]

Hi,

 

For some reason, I find it hard to figure out reef plumbing so I would really like some feedback on my thoughts. I really need my hand to be held for this one ... my head hurts everytime I think about this :

 

Basically what I have is a HOB which I wish to convert, such that, I can plumb my tank (to a fuge) without having to drill it (drilling isn't an option).

 

I want it to be simple, nonexpensive and fool proof.

 

This is what I had in mind. Please excuse the terrible drawings.

 

 

Here is a bit of an insight into my plumbing logic;

 

If pump A fails

Section B of the HOB will drain into the fuge and will not be refilled. Pump B will then drain the fuge until waterline drops below its intake. This water will be transfered to the display tank (this may cause the main tank to overflow a very small amount)

 

If pump B fails

Pump A will keep on removing water from the main tank until the water level drops below its intake. Section B of the HOB will drain into the fuge and will not be refilled. The fuges' water line will increase by the amount of section B of the HOB plus the water difference from the main take. Hence I will make sure that the fuge has "tall" sides. No water should be spilt.

 

If pump A pumps too fast

This is not a problem due to the baffles - water will simply flow from section B of the HOB to section A and then back to the main tank .. cool.

 

If pump B pumps too fast

Err well .. this one I need help with! Maybe an adjustable pump? Or a valve so I can restrict the water flow? But wouldn't the flow from pump B change over time depending on the pumps age and how dirty it is? I guess I forsee this as being a problem I don't want to be constantly adjusting it .. or am I just being a little uptight about this.

 

And before anyone askes ... the real reason behind the baffles is that they're already part of the HOB.

 

And now that I think about it .. there is no real need for pump A .. I could just have water gravity feed from the main tank to the fuge, except it would be easier to prime everything if it was there (ie just start the pumps taadaa primed).

 

Modification/equipment needed - two holes drilled in the HOBs bottom, a drilled fuge tank, two pumps (or one) and some pipes etc.

 

One more question... How do I figure out how much/fast water goes down a pipe via gravity?

 

Am I on the right track? HELP! :*(

 

Cavil

[lizbeth]

Dang makes me have a migraine.

 

Just drill the dang tank.

 

I wish glazer was here to help........On that note.......

 

I think it would work but as you've figured out having two pumps is bound to fail. As you say you could just use pump A to prime but then when you turn it off it probably wouldn't flow enough to feed the fuge in a satisfactory manor. You could use a U tube instead, you would have to have an overflow box in the main tank tho'.

 

How fast the water goes down the pipe depends on the size of the pipe and it location. That's why you need an overflow box to limit what goes out to what comes in.

 

Why won't you drill the tank?

 

I need more coffee........

 

PS this post will get moved to the DYI section soon......as it should be.

[kimura]

lizbeth is right, Why don't you drill the main tank? It's gettting too compilcated.

 

If anything I'l ditch the HOB, DIY a overflow box. You could place a valve at the end of the pipe/tube that feeds back to the main tank to control return. I wouldn't use two pumps like lizbeth said, it's bound to fail. Just make sure you measure the height from the pump to the top of the tank. From there you can choose a pump that will suit your needs. Ie....i have a PH that pumps 384gph @ 3ft. So I know how much it will return, and at the same time I have a 1" intake tube which will take down about 300gph (don't quote me on this) But you get the picture.

 

Then measure the demenisions of the sump where the pump will be located and that should give you the amount of water that will be returned if the intake fails. Also an adjustable overflow will help you setup how much water will be pulled down before flooding the sump/fuge area, incase the pump fails.

 

I hope this helps. And yes this should've been posted on the DIY section.

[Cavil]

Oops .. you're right I should have posted this in the DYI section I wasn't really thinking. Moderator, by all means move away

 

Now that I think about it more I doubt that I will be using pump A and will be replacing it with a U tube as lizbeth suggested.

 

I figured that ppl will suggest that I just drill the tank. Currently I don't have the equipment nor the knowlegde to do it .. and I can't seem to be able find anyone that would do it for me. Infact I have been told several times by the "tank drilling experts" that the glass is most likely to shatter or break. This tank has been set up for sometime and has a well established DSB. The thought of moving this out to get the tank drilled and then possibily the back panel replaced gives me more of a headache than farting around with this HOB.

 

Been thinking of an overflow box and it may prove to be easier. I just thought I would thrash this out .. I kinda like the idea.

 

Thanks for your input!

 

Cavil