thor1 Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Bought two ocellaris clowns ~1.5" from LFS yesterday, acclimated for ~ 1 hr using the drip method, until salinity/temp were the same as the main tank, where I have 1 existing clown and a firefish. The new clowns have eaten and are relativley active, but not as much as the prexisting * smaller clown. Just now after returning from work, one of the two new clowns has developed what looks like a run away slime coat, milky white and covering its whole body, its still swimming around, and looks like it will eat, but im concerned due to the speed of this developing as well as the amount of "slime" which even trails off of his dorsal and caudal fins. Never had this happen to any fish in all my years of aquaria. Any ideas Suggestions ? If it is a protective layer i dont want to take it off and make the fish more susseptable to disease, but if it is a problem, should I remove it manually? I dont really want to move it to a "hospital"/quarantine tank as i have found this often adds extra shock and kills fish.... Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment
Mini_GBR Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Its a clownfish thing. Chack out my thread from last week on this exact same thing. You might want to acclimate for a bit longer, but that's probably wasn't your issue. You will be lucky if this fish survives, it's really up in the air if he does or not. I've now had 2 males die, I think its the batch that was at the fish store and nothing I could do to stop it. They've replaced them both now. Sorry, its never good http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...topic=88162&hl= Link to comment
lgreen Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 1 hour acclimation is too long! try 10-15 minute tops. Brooklynella. Sorry to hear, but doesn't suprise me. Search for brooklynella. Link to comment
Mini_GBR Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 really, an hour is too long, all the books and LFS say to take it slow for around 2 hours, what tells you the 15 minutes? Link to comment
clifford513 Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 really, an hour is too long, all the books and LFS say to take it slow for around 2 hours, what tells you the 15 minutes? Experience, I do the same. No more than 20 minutes. Link to comment
Mini_GBR Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 huh, interesting, so does doing it for an hour+ stress them out more. and also, do you do the same to your corals and inverts. Just wondering, I mean i'd love to just 'throw' my stuff in when I get it. Link to comment
lgreen Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Like I have said in other threads... Over acclimation can cause more problems that under acclimation. The longer a fish is in the bag, the more stressed it will be. Corals could care less. I never acclimate hermits or snails. I think you should acclimate shrimp, but personally, I have lost more shrimp acclimating than not. I am not suggesting not acclimating them, but just something I have observed in my experience. Link to comment
clifford513 Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Following your lead lgreen, I just threw my fungia plate in after a 5 minute temp acclimation. That was this weekend. I was delighted when it had stretched out it tentacles in about two minutes. It is doing well today. Link to comment
lgreen Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 oops. sorry let me clarify what i meant. corals don't get stressed as bad as fish from being left in a bag for an hour. so drip acclimate away, although unless you are acclimating a $50-100 dollar sps frag, I wouldn't worry too much. I never acclimate zoos, shrooms, and softies. I do acclimate lps for maybe like 1-4 minutes using drip. sps maybe a bit longer Link to comment
Mini_GBR Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 well alrighty then, sorry to have hijacked the thread, got some useful stuff from it none the less. Link to comment
thor1 Posted June 3, 2006 Author Share Posted June 3, 2006 well alrighty then, sorry to have hijacked the thread, got some useful stuff from it none the less. I dont consider it a hijack, I'll try shorter acclimation times and see how it works... I did the fresh water dip and kept it in a lower salinity, but unfortunatly it did not make it, and even worse, this mistery hawaiian crab ate the other clown that i had bought as well, so now i moved it out and have only the original clown and a firefish. !blah for monster crabs! Link to comment
thor1 Posted June 8, 2006 Author Share Posted June 8, 2006 Now the clown that i've had for years, has come down with it.... and my firefish died....... So if you live in the Central Valley dont buy from Kaz's tropcial fish.... They use one central water system for all of their tanks, so if you do buy a fish, the water likely will contain some of these dastardly parasites. Link to comment
pufferpoison Posted June 25, 2006 Share Posted June 25, 2006 sounds like brook. Bad parasite. do a search for "formaldahyde friend or foe" and try to read the article about doing a formalin dip on your remaining fish. Now you have learned the hard way why everyone should QT EVERY FISH EVERY TIME. Link to comment
idog Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 really, an hour is too long, all the books and LFS say to take it slow for around 2 hours, what tells you the 15 minutes? Fish produce large amounts of waste in the bag. This ammonia actual burns the fish's gills and can cause lesions on the body. It's wise to get the fish out of the bag in as short a time as possible. Just a quick acclimation will do a fish fine. Inverts and sensitive corals might be aided by a longer one. They don't produce ammonia the same way in the bag so the acclimation is less risky. Link to comment
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