Hammer Coral Trouble

[gt3073b]

I do 1 gallon water changes weekly, my specific gravity is at 1.024, temp 79 degrees, 11 dKH (maintained with Kent 2 part Calcium/Buffer), no detectable ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates. My tank is 10 gallons and I have 1x36W 10000K and 1x36W true actinic, both on for 10 hours per day. I have been running a skimmer (bakpak 2r) for about a week now. My hammer coral suddenly died on one end. The other day it decided not to open up as much as usual so I began watching it very closely. 3 nights ago it secreted a slime coat on that end so  I tried dipping the coral in Kent Tectra D (an iodine based coral dip) with no improvement. The next night the slimy area turned to brown slime so I gently sucked up the gunk with a turkey baster and dumped it down the sink. The other end looks ok (though retracted even with the lights on).

 

After reading on the internet, I was wondering if this is bacterial or just a molybdenum deficiency?

 

Please help, this coral was gorgeous and I'd really hate for it to die a mysterious death.

[Toyfreek]

Sounds like Rapid Tissue Necrosis or something similar.

Did you dip the other half as well? can you break off the affected part without harming whats left? did you add any new stonies recently? Where is the nearest coral in proximity to the hammer in question and what is it? are any of your other animals showing signs of stress?

TIA,

Toy

[gt3073b]

Thanks for the reply Toyfreak. I dipped the coral again last night in the Tectra D (iodine) and used an airstone and turkey baster to keep the water in the bowl circulating and to help remove the dead tissue. About 1/3 of the skeleton is completely devoid of tissue, but the remaining tissue doesnt look too bad. I'm sure the infection was/is stressful. I have a few tiny unidentified coral pieces (doing quite well) from the substrate in the lfs frag tank but they are at least 6-8 inches away from the hammer (they were added before the hammer). The tissue loss seems to have stopped, but the coral still looks weak.

 

I always do the water changes slowly using ro/di water and kent salt that has been well mixed at least a day in advance. I use an airstone and make sure the specific gravity is the same as the tank (using a glass hydrometer, not the swing-arm type). I then use the turkey baster to slowly add the water so I don't shock the tank, and add it in the skimmer so it will be well mixed. My 2-part calcium supplements are added to the middle of the photoperiod (when I get home from work) so the pH swings should be minimal.

 

I know rapid necrosis is usually caused by some sort of shock. I wonder what I did to screw it up?

 

Would strontium/moly/iodine supplements help with the receding tissue?

[Toyfreek]

I dont go for the trace element theory if it was wild caught it would take months to show depletion. If it was fragged it came from a synthetic enviroment already and your salt mixes should have enough trace elements in there.

RTN can be caused by stress initially, however after one specimen gets it it will spread quite rapidly to other non-stressed animals. we aren't really sure why RTN occures just how from what I've read.

continue to watch the coral closely and I wouldn't do any more dips for a while, better to let him heal without disturbance.

Now would be a good time to set up a bare QT tank if you haven't already.

On another note If your coral dosen't make it I have a nice pink/green frogspawn I am going to frag soon, we can talk later.

HTH,

Toy

[gt3073b]

Thanks Toyfreak. I really appreciate all your help. The coral is looking kinda rough today, it had a hefty slime coat which i carefully removed with the baster. I sure hope it lives, it was a gorgeous coral.