jcm1229 Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 Those of you who replace the pump with a maxijet, do you do you use the strainer part or not? Link to comment
Ganomish Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 Those of you who replace the pump with a maxijet, do you do you use the strainer part or not? NOT, couldn't actually fit it in my APod12 chamber with it on. CHeers Link to comment
Phixion Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 Those of you who replace the pump with a maxijet, do you do you use the strainer part or not? I DO, but only because my small hands could still fit in the chamber after I set the pump at the bottom, but it was a PITA trying to do so. Worth it for the extra piece of mind however. Link to comment
ENraged Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 I DO, but only because my small hands could still fit in the chamber after I set the pump at the bottom, but it was a PITA trying to do so. Worth it for the extra piece of mind however. Yea i could not get down there to put in on there. But i have done most of the other mods on here. I have yet to mod the fans as cutting the fins is enough so far to keep me at a max temp of 80. Link to comment
Phixion Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 Yea i could not get down there to put in on there. But i have done most of the other mods on here. I have yet to mod the fans as cutting the fins is enough so far to keep me at a max temp of 80. Same here though I haven't even cut the fins yet. I have enough heat problems at night with the lights OFF and the hood closed to make a differance with any heat the light creates... Hits 83+ at night, ugh! Link to comment
Adrinal Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 I recieved and one a total of 4 of these units at the fosters and smith event. So, sorry if I am a bit behind on the thread Regarding LR Rubble: My thought is that it is probably beneficial to have SOME media in the flow through chambers to accomodate additional denitrifying bacteria, so NH3 and NO2 do not hang around at all. You could use those ceramic rings just as well, but if you use something with a CaCO3 base, it will help with pH buffering. Most important is make the media something that does not collect debris, like those sponges. And even so, an occasional rinse in water change water would not hurt. That is why I "bag" my rubble. I guess we should really just call it "Coral Rubble", since it is different from what we normally call "Live Rock" {/quote] rubble has anaerobic areas unlike the bioballs and ceramics. Don't forget, there are beneficial critters, (sponges, worms, tunicates...) that can grow on rock in a unlighted chamber that can help your tank. Just right I'll be ripping off sponge and sucking up pods out of my other no light zone filters to jumpstart my cubes Link to comment
ENraged Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 I recieved and one a total of 4 of these units at the fosters and smith event. So, sorry if I am a bit behind on the thread Just right I'll be ripping off sponge and sucking up pods out of my other no light zone filters to jumpstart my cubes I have a bit in my 3rd chamber I will put some more in there once i get some. Link to comment
Phixion Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 I can understand the sponge being a nitrate factory, but doesn't it help with the surface skimming or not so much? So if I have sopnge in ch-1, rubble and a sack of chaeto in ch-2, sack of rings in ch-3 and heater and MJ900 in ch-4, what would the best set up be? Remove sponge and move L/R and chaeto to #1, maybe heater to #2 and leave the rings in 3? I guess the options really are endless.... Link to comment
justin81 Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 The options are endless with these systems. Its whatever floats your boat. Everyone has a different opinion on what to run in the chambers. Like I personaly do not like using ceramic rings, sponges, bio-balls, or anything like that in my tank. This is what I run right now: 1st - Chemi-Pure (no reason relly, supposed to keep PH @ 8.3) 2nd - 1lbs of bagged LR rubble, Bagged carbon, Bagged Phosguard when needed 3rd - Refuge with chaeto and 1lb LR rubble and lighting (Will be done this weekend) 4th - MaxiJet400 MaxiJet400 is a test. My 1200 caused too much heat and the flow was too much for my yellow clown goby and pretty much anything else I would have put into the tank. So far no drop in temp, but my goby is much happier that he dosn't have to hold on to stuff to keep from getting blow away. I'm going to try a 900 next. The 400 acutualy has descent flow! The other mod I have done is adding an extra fan to the hood. So far this has not helped. They are both blowing out right now. I am going to try it with them blowing in and see what happens. This weekend Im going to cut the fins, and also cut bigger slits in the reflector were it bends over the balasts to see if I can get better flow and cool the lights down a little. I also switched the lights around so that when the actinics come on, the fans come on. Dosn't seem to help. I even have a house fan plugged into a timer to come on when my lights do to blow on the tank during the day. Between the big fan, the two hood fans, and my heater at 78degrees, I finaly stabalized at 83.5 degrees during the day, and 82.5 during the night with a ambient room temp of 75 degrees. Im having so many problems with water temps. Link to comment
Ganomish Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 The options are endless with these systems. Its whatever floats your boat. Everyone has a different opinion on what to run in the chambers. Like I personaly do not like using ceramic rings, sponges, bio-balls, or anything like that in my tank.This is what I run right now: 1st - Chemi-Pure (no reason relly, supposed to keep PH @ 8.3) 2nd - 1lbs of bagged LR rubble, Bagged carbon, Bagged Phosguard when needed 3rd - Refuge with chaeto and 1lb LR rubble and lighting (Will be done this weekend) 4th - MaxiJet400 MaxiJet400 is a test. My 1200 caused too much heat and the flow was too much for my yellow clown goby and pretty much anything else I would have put into the tank. So far no drop in temp, but my goby is much happier that he dosn't have to hold on to stuff to keep from getting blow away. I'm going to try a 900 next. The 400 acutualy has descent flow! The other mod I have done is adding an extra fan to the hood. So far this has not helped. They are both blowing out right now. I am going to try it with them blowing in and see what happens. This weekend Im going to cut the fins, and also cut bigger slits in the reflector were it bends over the balasts to see if I can get better flow and cool the lights down a little. I also switched the lights around so that when the actinics come on, the fans come on. Dosn't seem to help. I even have a house fan plugged into a timer to come on when my lights do to blow on the tank during the day. Between the big fan, the two hood fans, and my heater at 78degrees, I finaly stabalized at 83.5 degrees during the day, and 82.5 during the night with a ambient room temp of 75 degrees. Im having so many problems with water temps. I really think you need to increase evapotranspiration. Add a fan that blows into the water chamber. The other fans only blow acros the lights. I have seen some mods to do this and am considering it myself. Cheers Link to comment
ENraged Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Opening up the hood and clipping the internal vent peices was the best thing i have done for heat so far. Also i am running the maxi-jet 900 lovin it. I couldnt find a loc-line that would fit mine for whatever reason so i have yet to put it on. I used chamber 2 for my cheato cutting the black film off the back and getting a 13 watt light to sit back there. As to the gent looking at the fission skimmer i have heard of nothing but hate towards that skimmer so far. I would hold out for the AquaC nano remora or build your own Link to comment
Neergaard Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 I have a bit in my 3rd chamber I will put some more in there once i get some. Hi there I used to have bioballs in my first chamber and a slice of sponge on top. Having some unstable waterparameters i went for LR rubble and instead of the sponge I put cotton fiber (what you get at your LFS) on top and changed it every week. It worked great and I have had no problem since. What is nice with the white cotton is that it indicates hgow much dirt comes from the aquarium and changing it every week will eliminate the detrious that can be collected in a sponge over time. I now have two setups both with LR and cotton and it works magic. Only addition is some Rhowaphos under the cotton! About the heatissue I removed my ballast from the lid and installed a fan blowing in. Since then it has worked great! Ohh, also drilled some holes in the top of the lid over the bulbs to help warm air to escape. The Maxi-Jet works great. Have it with a Hydor-Flo and there are no deadspots:) Hope it helps Link to comment
napydred Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 on lr rubble: nature builds the best products for it's own customers, know what I mean? Link to comment
gsechen Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 dang Aquapods why did I buy one anymore mods this is pretty cool and informative thread for AP owners! Link to comment
napydred Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 ey so i just got my aquapod, one of the actinic bulbs is a little dimmer/more purple than the other, is this normal? also, does anyone use the big blue sponge that came in chamber 1? I was thinking of cutting it down a little and just inserting some plastic between it and the bottom grates to stop flow from coming in right there. I am assuming this bag of black stuff that came in chamber 3 (or was it 2) is activated carbon, doesn't seem like that would hurt anything, anyone keep that in? Is filter floss sold at wal mart in the crafts section? is it called filter floss? I think I know what it is, the stuff you put inside quilts and blankets right? Link to comment
gsechen Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Yo, about the lights, its just supposed to be like that and I think your talking about the actinics and I would just get some black silicone to cover up the vents. I'm not going to use that big ol sponge, just live rock pieces/rubble for me. And filter floss is bought at walmart and its called morning glory brand premium polyester fiberfill dunno the benefits of carbon stuff but it looks like eveyrone just throws it out, I think if you have live rock rublle it will work better than carbon. ey so i just got my aquapod, one of the actinic bulbs is a little dimmer/more purple than the other, is this normal? also, does anyone use the big blue sponge that came in chamber 1? I was thinking of cutting it down a little and just inserting some plastic between it and the bottom grates to stop flow from coming in right there. I am assuming this bag of black stuff that came in chamber 3 (or was it 2) is activated carbon, doesn't seem like that would hurt anything, anyone keep that in? Is filter floss sold at wal mart in the crafts section? is it called filter floss? I think I know what it is, the stuff you put inside quilts and blankets right? Link to comment
napydred Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 true that, I guess one light is a little more purple/dim because it is at different NM (nanometers?), Link to comment
Phixion Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 true that, I guess one light is a little more purple/dim because it is at different NM (nanometers?), This is true, one is like 490Nm and the other is like 430Nm (don't quote me on the exact numbers, but it's in the 400's for both) which refers to color temperature, or rather in this case I believe it's the frequency wave that the light travels in... Link to comment
smarcus3 Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 This is true, one is like 490Nm and the other is like 430Nm (don't quote me on the exact numbers, but it's in the 400's for both) which refers to color temperature, or rather in this case I believe it's the frequency wave that the light travels in... its the wavelength which is proportional to frequency by the speed of light. Thats why its a dual actanic light. Link to comment
keithqueef Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/k...22/aquapod1.jpg http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/k...122/aquapod.jpg http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/k...22/aquapod2.jpg Heres a mod its algae turf scrubber block lower vents and half / 3/4 of top vent drain enough water so that chamber 2 flows into chamber 3 chamber 3 should have 1inch of water cut a 3x8 screen place it vertical against the wall so that chamber 2 flows over and cut vinyll and light is a clamp light 23 watt cfl sry pics r with phone no algae in display cept where my mag cleaner wont reach da bottom and im an ironworker so i dont reall y like putting my dirty hands in the tank. all my coral r doing fine and multiplying Link to comment
phil47952 Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/k...22/aquapod1.jpghttp://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/k...122/aquapod.jpg http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/k...22/aquapod2.jpg Heres a mod its algae turf scrubber block lower vents and half / 3/4 of top vent drain enough water so that chamber 2 flows into chamber 3 chamber 3 should have 1inch of water cut a 3x8 screen place it vertical against the wall so that chamber 2 flows over and cut vinyll and light is a clamp light 23 watt cfl sry pics r with phone no algae in display cept where my mag cleaner wont reach da bottom and im an ironworker so i dont reall y like putting my dirty hands in the tank. all my coral r doing fine and multiplying Keith, I'm doing this to my AQ12 or hopefully so. Do you think you'll be posting more pic's of your mod? It's kinds hard to get much info on the AQ12 mod. Thank you Phil Link to comment
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