aquaman22 Posted March 18, 2006 Share Posted March 18, 2006 do you think fresh water dips are affective for ick? if so how long of dips should i do my clown only has like 3 little dots on him also i was looking in my colony of zoos and i saw a little black bug crawling in there whats that thanx for the help!!! Link to comment
Saltwater Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 No, it is not a fix for Ich, if you do a FW dip on your fish than place it back in your tank than you have exposed the fish to Ich all over again. If you have Ich in your tank, than that is where the problem needs to be taken care of. Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 You will lose your fish even faster with FWD... It's for reefers that fish has noticeable ich prior to entering the main display. Link to comment
Snoop Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 I think you are wrong if you take care of the ick via ev staralizer or meds then you can easily kill the ick on the fishes body. Link to comment
Saltwater Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 I think you are wrong if you take care of the ick via ev staralizer or meds then you can easily kill the ick on the fishes body. I am not understanding this? If you treat a fish with meds outside the main tank and leave the main tank fishless for 6 weeks than yes you can kill the parasite. If you treat the fish with meds or do a FW dip on a fish and place it back into the main tank than your fish will be exposed to the parasite all over again and have Ich. Link to comment
Snoop Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 If you treat your main tank for meds or uv and FW dip your fish and quarantine it. The meds only kill free swimkming parasites if those are gone then the FW dip kills them on the animal. Link to comment
FishTechNH Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 There are many parasites that show the same white spots and it is very difficult to accurately diagnose what these potential diseases are. In any case you can't treat he main tank without destroying it. It takes an extreme amount of U.V. to kill parasites and most would be impractical. Quarantine is key. In this case something already got in so the fish must be removed FW dip for as long as it can handle and only if it's up to the dip. A weak fish will be pushed over the edge with a dip. Make sure the pH matches the pH in the display tank for your dip water. Then to a hospital tank for a treatment with formalin. Observe for a couple weeks and make sure the problem is gone before returning to the display. Running the tank fallow while all this is going on should take care of any parasite in the display but any filter feeding inverts should eat up stragglers. Keep the display and the QT on the warm side to speed up the life cycle of the disease. Link to comment
Saltwater Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 Formalin is a very risky treatment for any fish, and if you do treat with formalin than you should use an air stone and treat for no longer than one hour, but you must watch the fish for any side effects than place the fish in a quarantine tank. Here is an article to explain more of this treatment ............. Formaldehyde: Friend or Foe? http://216.168.47.67/cis-fishnet/seascope/99SS1601.htm Link to comment
FishTechNH Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 This is true but I prefer it to Copper on many fronts. There are long term formalin meds available. I actually prefer hyposalination but have mixed results depending on the species of parasite and most hobbyists don't like to wait this treatment out to see if it's going to work on their particular situation. Link to comment
Saltwater Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 I agree, I never recommend copper, there are some fish that just do not do well in copper. I also prefer Hypo, it is hard work and takes patience, it is a daily routine when you use this method. But many hobbyist are not that patient. FishTechNH - I sent you a PM Link to comment
FishTechNH Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 I see your point here but I guess I've just been burned too many times by the new so called safe treatments. My old train of thought is that if something is weak and it doesn't work completely and effectively than I'm on a path to creating a newer more aggressive disease. I've worked in this industry for a long time now and seen alot of products that simply do not work and since they are not regulated there's no incentives for certain companies that produce these items to do anything other than take your money. Anyhow, even hypo can be stressful on a fishes physiology but i'd rather take that chance other than lose the fish in a week or two and possibly wipe out a tank, or worse a central holding system! To stay realistic though I should keep trying new things I'll have to pick up some of these products you mentioned and run them by the veterinarian that I use for my service business. Link to comment
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