Aquapod 12G Temp problems

[movingreefer]

For some reason my search feature is all buggy and i am in desperate need of a way to cool my ap. I have thought of drilling the tank for the chiller probe but hate the idea... Has anyone had success adding another fan and keeping the temp around 80. if so where did u get a fan with a 2prong connector or have you had any success adding a fan with its own power supply to run all the time. I'm also toying with the idea of adding a kalk top off any one got some easy foolproof suggestions.

 

Thanks!!!!!!!!!

[spark]

Upgrade and add another fan. Punch out the plastic between the fan vents. It allows much more air to blow through. You can buy a 12V Adapter at Radio Shack to run the fans. Pulling the ballasts out of the hood takes away quite a bit of heat as well. I would try those before drilling. Mine stays at 78-79 with 2X32 Watt bulbs.

[nanoguru]

Take out the ballasts? I always thought that was a good idea...but

I wasn't sure how you would go about doing that...

so many wires that connect to the pc lights and switch...

 

could you post some pics?

 

thanks

[spark]

I had one of the first Aquapod 12g tanks with the wiring issue. My tank was up and running and in my 9 year old daughter's room. I got sick of waiting and did not want to kill everything in the tank or take any risks with water and electricity with my daughters. So I bit the bullet and bought a 2X32 retro kit. So I bypassed the switches altogether since the external ballast has them built in. I didn't have time to rewire and use the same ballasts. I am actually using one for a light over one of my 10g AGA holding tanks.

 

http://www.aquabuys.com/miva/merchant.mvc?...Product_Count=9

 

I am taking this tank down this month and consolodating into a new 54g.

 

How high are your temps? Replacing fans with good ones, hooking up another one and punching out the plastic between the vents will drop temps by 2 degrees alone. I would start with that first as it is the most inexpensive and the easiest fix. This is a good fan that is not so noisy. (higher rpm pushes more air but over 5000 gets really noisy.)

 

http://www.buyextras.com/su50malefan1.html

 

Adapter

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search

 

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2049699

 

Use the lead to connect to the spliced connectors on the fan. It is 12V, so it is like a battery with a pos & neg. Just slide a very small heat shrink tube onto the wires & solder together. Slide the tube over the wiring & shrink up with a lighter. It is incredibly easy to do.

 

Another thing is to replace the silly piece of masking tape under the fan with some electrical tape. Since the fans on these are mounted high and do not sit flush, the air is not forced out very well.

 

$35 and a little effort will drop your temps down 2 degrees. Replacing the fans alone without popping out the plastic pieces won't do much. Have to pop those out to allow the hot air to blow out.

 

If that does not help, then move onto to the ballasts.

[nanoguru]

thanks spark,

do you have one fan pushing air in and the other out?

 

did you guys pop the vents over the reflector that sits on top of the lights as well?

 

I was wondering about those 2 pin splitters...that lets you plug 2 fans to 1 female pin receiver to power them both...does that divide the strength of fan in half?

Parallel and serial circuits are just too confusing to me...

 

nano

 

BTW - I thought about adding a small radiator which would receive water from refugium in the back and return cooled water back to refugium...but was told salt water would corrode any type of metal radiator eventually....anybody thought about this at all?

[spark]

thanks spark,

do you have one fan pushing air in and the other out?

 

did you guys pop the vents over the reflector that sits on top of the lights as well?

 

I was wondering about those 2 pin splitters...that lets you plug 2 fans to 1 female pin receiver to power them both...does that divide the strength of fan in half?

Parallel and serial circuits are just too confusing to me...

 

nano

 

BTW - I thought about adding a small radiator which would receive water from refugium in the back and return cooled water back to refugium...but was told salt water would corrode any type of metal radiator eventually....anybody thought about this at all?

 

I only popped out the vents over the fans. But popping a few over the lights & ballast would definately help the air flow. I would point both fans out since there are pretty big vents over the lights, it can pull cool air in over the lights & ballasts and pump it out. Even just popping out one above the lights would make a big difference along with the fan vents.

A splitter may work, but since the fans are run off the ballast the mA that can be pulled are controlled by the capacitor. So it just depends on the capacitor. I never looked and pulled the capacitor out. It would be worth try, but the fans may not drive at full capacity.

 

Unless the radiator is made of plastic or titanium for all internal parts, it will rust very quickly. I have never seen a pc radiator made of titanium or all plastic. Stainless steel eventually will rust as well.

[movingreefer]

Thanks everyone!

[nanoguru]

I only popped out the vents over the fans. But popping a few over the lights & ballast would definately help the air flow. I would point both fans out since there are pretty big vents over the lights, it can pull cool air in over the lights & ballasts and pump it out. Even just popping out one above the lights would make a big difference along with the fan vents.

A splitter may work, but since the fans are run off the ballast the mA that can be pulled are controlled by the capacitor. So it just depends on the capacitor. I never looked and pulled the capacitor out. It would be worth try, but the fans may not drive at full capacity.

 

Unless the radiator is made of plastic or titanium for all internal parts, it will rust very quickly. I have never seen a pc radiator made of titanium or all plastic. Stainless steel eventually will rust as well.

 

how about anodized aluminum? ICA chiller from nanotuners are using those...and look what I found~~

 

it's 12" length with fins...may dissipate heat very well....it's supposed to be quite corrosive-resistant...but for how long? anybody using ICA chiller have any problems after using it for awhile?

 

nano

[spark]

Chris modifies the Zalman block and treats it with a Marine Grade (TIII, CL2 Milspec) Anodize. That is why they are black instead of blue. The gold connectors will corrode. If you can find some of the Marine grade anodize it might work.

[nanoguru]

Chris modifies the Zalman block and treats it with a Marine Grade (TIII, CL2 Milspec) Anodize. That is why they are black instead of blue. The gold connectors will corrode. If you can find some of the Marine grade anodize it might work.

 

thanks sparky...marine grade anodize...I have no idea how the process is done...but I will look into it...

 

I'm surprized nobody else has done something in this line....hmm

 

nano

[nanoguru]

about those Fans~

 

I noticed people posting for 50mm and 60mm fans...what size is the stock fan? 50mm?

If we purchase the 60mm I suppose we have to use an alternative way to fix it to the hood.

You guys noticed the 1cm gap between the fan and the vent? anybody try trimming the abutment for the screw down for closer placement of the fan?

How thick can we go as far as the fan goes? without constricting the airflow?

25mm seems like the thickest but won't that prevent free flow of hot air through the fan?

 

nano

[newbie2]

I sent Current a E-mail about the fan issue and to remove the hood for easier access. This is the info I have.

 

 

We normally do not recommend removing the hood from this version of the

12-gallon Aquapod. Although some hobbyists will pop the hood from the

hinges for modification, we do not recommend doing so.

 

If you want to add an additional fan, or modify the existing one, it would

be best to call us for specifications and instructions in doing so. I can

be reached at 760-727-7011 - extension 107.

 

Sincerely,

Ike

 

Ike Eigenbrode

www.current-usa.com

Ph: 760-727-7011

Fax: 760-727-7066

[newbie2]

I switched pumps to a Rio 800 with a Hydro head and set my heater to 77 and leave the feed door open. I can stay within 77.2-77.7. good luck. Oh i also cut open the fan exhaust and intake..

[newbie2]

HERE WE GO.

I TOOK MY HOOD APART AND THERE IS A JACK FOR AN EXTRA FAN AS THE 24 HAS TWO. MOUNTING HOLES AND ALL.

WENT UP TO THE LFS, TOLD THEM, CALLED CURRENT AND A DOZEN FANS ARE COMING NEXT WEEK.

TALK TO YOUR LFS AND GET ANOTHER FAN FOR NO$$$$..............

[movingreefer]

You could do that but the fans current is using aren' t that good. You can get a much higher rpm fan that runs quieter for about 15 bucks. Plus if you use the extra plug your fans will still only be on when the 10000k light is on. If you hook them up seperatly, than they can run all the time or have them on a timer to shut off about an hour after all your lights go off. I was also told that current is also using different out flow nozzels with the new tanks any on ehave luck getting them?

[flsandwoman]

I thought the ice/chiller probe could also be used w/o drilling by suspending from the top via a bracket. I'm also looking for a solution for my 12 G which is getting in the 83-85 degree range in South Florida. I won't drill given all the other problems with cracking.

[newbie2]

why does everyone get so complicated. Why add a 80-100$ chiller if you can add a fan. Attinc/daylight fan issue? Switch the bulbs so fan starts with the attinic. Fans no good? There free... what the he**. Good luck.....

[movingreefer]

I just moved from Manhattan to Orlando. I'm keeping my apt around 68 and i did the fan mod, the fan i added is pretty good but i still need to get rid of the current fan. And i'm still running at 81.6 if i leave everything closed with the lights on. If i prop open the hood 2inches i have no problem.... Bottom line is the design sux! I also plan on drilling more vent holes in the front of the hood to pull air across the lights. If you want the pics from my fan mod PM me, posting them is a pain and i could just email them in a zip file.... PS if you hang the chiller probe you will have corrosion issues...