2.5g hood

[aqua_aaron]

i've started work on my plans for a 2.5g nano. i decided to go with screw-in pc's only because they are easily replaced, relatively inexpensive, and don't require a ballast, which can take up a lot of space, especially in a 2.5 g hood. my original plan called for 2 20 watt coralife 50/50's, but while at hd, i found this bright 100 watt pc, called "natural daylight". i'm assuming its in between 6500k and 10000k because it is a very white light. overall, this gives me 140 watts over a 2.5g.

here are some pics. i'm obviously not finished.

the top is missing because i have to plan a inlay for 2 or more fans flush with the wood.

once all done, i'll spraypaint the inside metallic silver and stain the outside as well as apply a coat or two of spar urethene.

comments please...

 

 

 

[jfish]

do you have a pic with the lights on? iam making a hood for my 2.5 and yours looks realy good and seems it would have enughf light for some softys. do mind if i copy your desine?

[Daemonfly]

Careful, as those lights are quite inefficient and get very hot, especially 3 over a 2.5g

 

Fans may not be enough, depending on fans chosen.

[jfish]

Careful, as those lights are quite inefficient and get very hot, especially 3 over a 2.5g

 

Fans may not be enough, depending on fans chosen.

 

why are they inefficent?

[aqua_aaron]

jfish-sure, you can use my design. i bought 1 2x6, 6' for the sides and then a 18"x24" shelf pine for the top

i had over 7 of these lights over a 15 g and didn't have a problem with heat. these bulbs are touchable after hours of use. with fans, i'm not worried.

daemonfly-why do you call these bulbs inefficient?

[baj]

Hi,

I think the spiral CFL is 100w in equivalent incandescent light. I think that is a 25w CFL so you really have about 65W of lights, which is great nonetheless. However, the lamps will burn really hot and they will need to be replaced more frequently. I would suggest adding a metallic refelctor to get more light into the tank, and leave the top of the reflector open to air (ie dont put a top on the hood above the reflector). That and 2 powerfull fans should help keep it cool and increase bulb life, and adding he reflector means that you will get more light into the tank. Any reflector is better than nothing. Mount the fans on the side of the hood, the side near the spiral CFL such that they draw air out of the hood. To mount it, i would cut the side in half lengthwise and mount the fans just above the filter, it doesnt matter if some section of the fan is blocked by the remaining piece of wood, it will still draw air ouut of the hood.

regards,

-b

[Joseph14]

me Here Man .Could I copy Your Design?

[aqua_aaron]

i'll try to draw out some plans i can get to you guys who like the design.

baj- the metallic paint i have found very reflective-its what i had in my previous hood and worked quite well.

i'll be mounting a 4 or 5" fan on the top of the hood. heats rises, so i might as well speed up that process. that will draw air in from the open side, which has the larger bulb-

my mistake the light is 100 watts incadescent and really 30 watts cf, but i'll still have a total of 70 watts.

i stained the hood today and i'm working on ther electrical aspect. i'll try to get some plans together

 

-aqua_aaron

[baj]

My bad, I overlooked the metallic paint part. I used the same thing for a DIY 10g hood I made and it works great. Nice plan! With the fan in there you shouldnt have problems with insane temperatures inside the hood.

[aqua_aaron]

baj- i'm looking foward to the finished product- this should turn out great

here is a pic with the stain- i plan on ordering the fan tonight...

 

[aqua_aaron]

For those repeating my design, I have dimensions:

(i put my hob on the side of my tank, just because i wanted a flow gradient across my tank, rather tan back to front, but this hood design is quite flexible.)

 

i have butt joints, leaving the front flush and the sides exposing the wood edge; a few mods would allow for joints where each side was cut @ 45 degrees

 

for hob on the side:

front of hood- 13 11/16" x 5 1/2"

back of hood- same

side 1- 6 3/16" x 5 1/2"

side 2- 6 3/16" x 2 5/8" (this provides enough room for an ac20, which is a relatively tall hob, so this number should accomodate various other hob's)

 

for hob on back:

front- 13 11/16" x 5 1/2"

back- 13 11/16" x 2 5/8"

sides 1 & 2- 6 3/16" x 5 1/2"

 

these dimensions are for pine (pine 1"= 3/4" due to cutting the wood before it had dried)

1x6 (3/4 x 5 1/2") a 6' length is enough

approx. $8

 

the top can be out of any wood and any side depending on how much over hang desired

i choose about 3/4" overhang on the front and back and flush sides using another piece of pine

 

i hope this helps everyone else planning on building a 2.5g hood. i ordered my fan and power supply and when they arrive i can begin fitting it into my hood.

 

later,

aqua_aaron

[robmacy]

that is an interesting setup already. the fuge is on the side. i think that is a smart idea since it will create water movement across the entire width of the tank.

 

i agree with the heat from the lamps. the updraft sounds like a good plan.

[aqua_aaron]

thanks robmacy

i'm expecting the fans soon.

i cut the hood out and predrilled the mounting holes and stained it. overall this is what the hood should look like. i'll edge the part of the fan that sticks out of the top of the hood.

i talked to the tech teacher at my high school. i'm going to stay after a few days and use their computer-controlled milling machine to make the inset for the fan in the hood. when the fan arrives, i'll begin wiring...

 

[aqua_aaron]

Hey!

I got my hood all wired up and tested it. i also got the fan and wired that up- pretty effective! the top is going to school with me on tueday so i can cut the fan inlay

here are some pic of progress...

 

 

 

after that, i'll be done!

questions and comments??

[chipmaker]

A much better and effective reflector that could be used and only costs a few bucks is those acrylic mirrows commonly sold at Wal Mart for under $10 for a 12 x 48 inch so called full length mirrow. They are acrylic easy to cut, and can easily be fastened inside the top and sides of a wooden hood and do a fine job of reflecting light, better than any paint can even think of doing.

I make predominately acrulic hoods for all my picos and other tanks, as I like not having to finish wood, plus they are easily modified and changed, and have been laminating the acrylic mirrow material to the insides of all my hoods and the difference is like night and day....Another good material is chrome monokote available at most any hobby store that sells supplies for RC airplanes. YOu can get trim sheets with pressure sensitive adhesive, that sticks to wood or plastics very well and its just like real chrome...Paint just not have sufficient reflective quality in it, as compared to these materials, although white would have been a better choice for reflective quality instead of the silver.

 

 

Hello LIghts has nano ballasts that wil power from 24 thru 65 watt lights on sale for $24.00.....complete with square pin socket configuration...

[aqua_aaron]

chipmaker- im planning on putting a mirror behind the lights- haven't had time yet.

if i plan any mods for the future, i's probably put a 70wat mh in there.

because im only in high school, i dont have the money to devote to such a setup. this should be fine for most corals for now (lps and softies)

thanks for the suggestion,

aqua_aaron

[aqua_aaron]

okay- almost done! . i just got home from staying after school to cut my fan inlay- the computer-run machine was great. the fan and top are on the hood.

 

i fished the wires through a hole i made in the inlay.

 

 

i am glueing the fan power supply to the back of the hood. once the glue has dried, i'll wire and fire everything up

 

 

 

what's left to do:

put wood trim around top of fan

try to fit a mirror back in there for reflection

 

any comments??

 

aqua_aaron