Mode 1 or Mode 2 ???

[Micro-Reefs Aquariums]

For those of you that own an ICA unit you might want to pay attention to this short but informative post.

 

Mode 2, means that you allow your ICA unit to run 24 hours a day with out having any timers on it. The benefit is giving the ICA enough contact time to keep the water cool, it gets a lot of help in the night as the ambient temps in your room drop...

 

Starting at a lower temperature vs a higher one, is going to make a difference in the overall temp of the tank by the end of the day.

 

Mode 1, is having a controller like a reef keeper start and stop the ICA during each day. The benefit here is that your ICA rest during the twilight hours and you have a more uniformed control of temperature swings throughout the day.

 

Hope this helps out some of you guys and gals that have this unit.

 

Mike

[Enrique]

Hi Mike G., I also have an ICA and do run it on "Mode 2". I replaced the my stock pump with an MJ-404 (so as to eliminate the "hot-pump" theory), I also have a total of 4 fans running, and I replaced the stock reflector with a Nanocustoms 4.24, and I am still using stock lighting. Its kinda hard to explain this since you and I have different ambients but so far the only known ICA testing I have done which I still remember is: My ICA can pull about 5-5.5 degrees with the lights off with an ambient of around 83-84 degrees. But with the lights on, it can only pull out 2-2.5 degrees. But during those times I was still using the stock reflector. I only recently installed my Nanocustoms reflector last Tuesday. Would there be a significant change in temps? I would really want my ICA to pull at least 3-4 degrees with the lights on. How were you able to keep you tank cool with 117 watts of lighting? I'm only using 48 watts but its not as close as your temps. Appreciated.

[Micro-Reefs Aquariums]

Enrique,

 

I'm running 109 watts in my both tanks, I have two 12 gallon cubes. One is in my bedroom and the other is in my living room.

 

I've come to the conclusion that the design of the 12 gallon cube is in fact a heat trapper and has a hard time cooling by itself. Therefore when you open the hood and run a fan through the surface or you place ice packs it cools down quickly.

 

With the ICA unit, I've seen that it will assist in keeping the temps at a relative safe point but, it is not and will not act like a true chiller.

 

I've seen my tank rise as high as 86.5 degrees in both tanks with my ICA unit running. However I was running this in Mode 1. When I do mode 2 I found better results. Also you need to know that on this particular reading I had 105 F outside and 95 inside the house.

 

What I have done now is adjust the time my ICA unit turns off and on allowing me to combat the given day; if it's going to be a hot day I will tell the ICA unit to turn on earlier etc...

 

This helps out a lot. I've seen an ICA unit work on a 48 watt stock cube and it runs just like you mention, there is really nothing you can do other than run it 24 hours a day. I will tell you this; your corals and fish will appreciate the cooler water opposed to not having any type of assistance.

 

My brothers tank took a whopping 91 degrees in his tank and lost a lot of stuff. This would have been prevented had he invested in an ICA unit. He would've stayed at least 4-5 degrees below 91.

 

Hope this helps out a little.

 

Mike

[Enrique]

Thank for the reply Mike, so in other words, the temps my tank is experiencing is normal...right? The highest recording i've had so far was 83.4 with the lights on and ambients were at around 85-86 degrees. You also mentioned that you run 109 watts of lighting in your tank....would it be safe for me to double my 48 watts (96 watts)? Note that I also have a total of 4 fans inside my canopy. I really would like to get an upgrade on lighting from Nanocustoms but still am very hesitant due to the heating problems of my tank. What I did so far was upgrade the heat reflector and I think its the same as the reflector you have. Though I would say its more of a heat shied rather than a reflector. Anyway, I decided to start with the heat shield first as I was told that it moves heat better than the stock reflector. And could you clarify which temp is safe, I've read that between 74-78 but I've also read that 80-82 is also safe. Which is which? And what were your (better) results running it on mode 2? (I run mine on mode 2...ever since) Thanks again and thanks in advance.

[Enrique]

By the way, at what voltage are you running your ICA? Thanks

[ccjung]

Still out, but popping in to say hi..

 

Enrique- 4 fans may be overkill. The design of the heatshield is to suck air in through the side vents and ventilate through the rear fans.. Ive tested many many configurations with probes inside the splashguard area and have found the setups are most efficient when only 2 fans are used. Adding extra fans may be part of the reason you are having higher temps...

 

Although ive never done a comparison between stock (w/ 4.24 heatshield) and stock, i do know that the 4.24 (with bulbs) runs at 98F compared to 110F stock in a 2005. The 2004 model used to run 125F stock.

 

The main weakness of the stock reflector is that the air will take the shortest, less resistive path, which means the air is shooting over the top of the reflector unit instead of ventilating the lighting area. Thats why the new heat shield uses a flat plate and essentially blocks air from the top side of the vents.

 

Hope this helps

 

Chris

[Enrique]

"i do know that the 4.24 (with bulbs) runs at 98F compared to 110F stock in a 2005. The 2004 model used to run 125F stock"

 

I'm lost...with all these "stock" words coming in....4.24 with what bulbs run at 98F........110F stock 2005 with what, 2.24 bulbs? And whats with the 2004 thingy...what model is this, the DX? Isnt the 2004 and 2005 the same except for the moonlights? And how could adding extra fans to blow the air out add more heat? I've never heard of such a theory as that. Isnt that what people do when installing metal halides? I've seen it done. Anyway, all I wanted to know is if my ICA could handle the addition of 48 watts to my exsisting 48's. As I can see, Mike G. is confident in what he is doing. I want to learn from his confidence in order to run more lights without paranoia. Thank though....Still searching (By the way, though I added 2 more fans, I also added vents)

[Enrique]

"The design of the heatshield is to suck air in through the side vents and ventilate through the rear fans."

 

"Thats why the new heat shield uses a flat plate and essentially blocks air from the top side of the vents"

 

Chris,

Yeah I noticed that long before the 4.24 heatshield came in. I have blocked the top vent even before I had the ICA. Thats why I placed a fan next to these top vents and made new vents for the fans. It did improve by 1 degree only.

[ccjung]

8y mh setups run 2 fans only..

[ccjung]

the stock refers to the original configuration 48w of light.

 

the 2004 model was the original dx. it had a 2 piece splashguard and no option for a fuge light since the fan splashguard was black plastic.

 

it ran hotter due to some restrictions and and intermediate wall, which blocked flow.

 

the 2005 has a 1 piece clear splashguard and runs cooler since there isnt an intermediate wall between the lights and fans.

 

adding 2 additional fans to suck air out doesnt do anything for you if there isnt any air coming in. this is how adding extra fans could cause more heat to accumulate in the canopy.

 

hope this helps,

 

chris

[Micro-Reefs Aquariums]

Chris you are not welcomed on this thread while on vacation. You are suppose to be relaxing and having fun!!! Just Kidden....

 

 

Mike