heat problem.

[SeaFish]

today was pretty hot day with a temp of around 87 degrees. during the day i kept my lights off since i am not home and turn it on when i am home for the night. my question is, the temperature in my tank reached 86 degrees with out the lights being on. how can i lower the heat on a somewhat hot day like today? i have a maxi jet 400 and a mini jet 606. my heater is set to stay at 80 degrees. my thermometer is one of those digital ones that comes with warnings when temp gets too low or high. how can i lower the heat?

[Twins Guy]

its time for a microchiller (iceprobe) or a fan. a fan may be the easiest remedy but even this will only pull temps down 4-5 degrees. think long term, if thet're are a lot of 90+ days where you're at then this may be no good, but if you can keep your tank under 82 with the fan try it. aim it across the surface of the tank (create a ripple), and evaporative cooling will take care of the rest. you will have to top off more frequently. maybe you opt to get an air conditioner, electricity's a biootch but you and the tank's inhabitants will both be happier (and boy are you grouchyj/k . the iceprobe will cost you more (than a fan) but may be the better investment. most people carefully drill a hole in the cover to their HOB filter (aquaclear's prolly the best) and position the probe there. some people are trying to figure out a diy version using cpu fans, heat sinks and a peltiers device. i would also recommend that you have your aquarium lights on a timer, so that your critters get a consistent photoperiod. i'm not home during the day so i have mine come on around one so everyone's opened up and pretty by the time i'm home. then they "go to sleep" at 11 (10-12 hours ideal photoperiod). finally keeping your light off during the hottest part of the day is a good idea if overheating is an issue (still try to give them that uniterrupted 10-12 hr photoperiod). hope that helps!

[SeaFish]

hey, thanks for the reply, now my question is since i have the csl 32 watt smart lamp, the connection between the bulb and the lighting junction is not water proof to any degree, if i have air blown onto the surface of the water, wouldnt that cause some shorting or maybe a fire hazard? currently i have a acrylic covering over the water which prevents any evaporation from coming into contact with the lighting system. my question is, is there a seal for such junction between light and lighting junction? i have thought about water proof tapes for electrical purposes or even a acrylic covering just for the lights and leave the water surface free of any obstruction. but the more i think about it, i probably screw up something and end up shorting the lighting system anyway. i am not very electrically gifted at all. about the ice probe, i have posted questoins about it recently and i forgot which board member had indicated with ice probe, i guess i need to buy a seperate system of some sort to regulate it. the thing abou thtat is, i was wondering how does that work in fitting into the tank? my tank comes with a hood and that leaves about 3 inches available for me to put anything under the hood. i saw the measurement for the ice probe, i have never seen one i person, so is that unit too big for being put under the hood ? between the top of the tank and the cannopy is about 3 inches. please advise, thank you all.

 

 

sorry you guys had to deal with the argument. just cant take anyone who is rude. not saying dave is bad or dont give good advice, i would otherwise not have any problem with him if he just learn to be patient or something. but yeah...sorry that you guys had to deal with it too.

 

thank you again =)

[Twins Guy]

with overheating issues. first the iceprobe likely wouldn't fit under that hood nor would you want it to be very enclosed for peak efficiency. as far as the controller/"thermostat" talk yes you would prolly want one. i've seen deals for like $150 for the probe and contoller. expensive i know. just like the thermostat in a heater, the ice probe temp controller would turn the unit on when temps exceed a certain set point (and off when tank temps dip below that point). i have seen people run these chillers with no temperature control (on all the time) but usually in settings where ambient temperatures remain constant and high. on a small tank it is possible that the chiller would cool your water off real quick, perhaps too quick for the heater to keep up with and balance out.

as for the fan option...yes it is possible that a fan could cause salt spray which may damage the lighting. i would suggest removing the acrylic covering the entire tank and cut it down to fit just over the light. like i said earlier, this will increase evaporation! but it may save you some serious hassles. my tank is enclosed by a hood but uncovered (no shield between water and light). i installed a fan to dissipate heat coming off my light and ballast. i have actually noticed less condensation inside the hood, no salt spray (my fan blows out instead of in because i'm mostly trying to remove hot air, rather than evaporate water), and consequently no corrosion or electrical issues whatsoever since its installation. if you go with a fan, you don't need this goliath window fan either, you could try a 2 or 3 inch CPU fan from radio shack. and remember to provide vents opposite the fan to let the air escape. hope that helps some

[SeaFish]

thank you very much. it sure do help a lot. =)

[Dave ESPI]

I wasnt going to say anything, but since you dragged a completely un-related thread into this one, I will. : JUST DROP IT.

 

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[SeaFish]

haha, dave, i wont even say anything to your post what so ever other then, i agreed with chris to just ignore anything you have to say that dont come with respect, but i guess the least i can say for your 6 minute effort is thanks.