New 25g nano reef setup

[Xavier]

Being an experienced FW person, marine is new to me. After months of research I've taken the plunge. I just received my 25g tank and started it's setup. For months I've been researching this, but now that I've started setting it up I've come across a few questions.

 

I purchased a Rio 800 powerhead with a split, rotating head (effectively 400 from each nossle). I've positioned it to push the output of the filter around in a circle from right to left, pushing it over the filter intake. It seems to be creating a pretty nice flow, but I'm not sure it's enough. I have two Rio 180 powerheads from my FW that I'm not using and function fine (with the replacement of some suction cups - any recommendations on where to pick some up?). I haven't added any LR yet (just LS - just set it up tonight, waiting for temp and pH to settle).

 

So that leads into question one. Once I add LR, would it be beneficial to add in one, or both, of the Rio 180's (if either)? I'm worried of putting to much current into the tank. Question two, is it good to set the circulation of the water into a certain rotation? Does LR have any specific requirements (should I wait for perfect SG and pH before adding it)? Third, my hydrometer is a glass tube (hydrometer/thermometer in one) and from the sites I've read, depending on the livestock you want to add, you need to be specific down to the thousandth.. this hydrometer shows numbers to the hundreth, with a green "safe" area between 1.02 and 1.03 - how specific do I need to be? Lastly, how much lighting is required to support the initial cycling with just LS (40 lbs) and LR (none yet) - currently using an Eclipse hood w/ a PC SmartLite CustomSeaLife 32W Retro - 10k and ultra-actinic?

 

I've found that my Rio 800 puts enough current into the tank to keep the hydrometer moving all over the tank (not so good). So I've put a zip-tie across one corner that is relatively calm simply to create a triangle to trap the hydrometer in. It seems to be working just fine right now, but what have others done to keep their hydrometers from getting trapped?

 

Thanks for all your help.. the site has been of much benefit in my research!

[Twins Guy]

most reefers test their salinity/specific gravity periodically but almost never leave the hydrometer in the water all the time. currents will influence your readings so its best to test in an area away from tank currents (may be best to take tank water into a pitcher or something dedicated to tank use and then test that water, just an idea) your specific gravity readings will have to be much more precise, like the book or whatever said, at least down to the thousandth (eg 1.023). drastic changes in specific gravity are dangerous for many reef inhabitants and to be avoided at all costs. certain critters do better at high or low spec grav but as a rule somewhere between 1.022 and 1.025 is the target range (red sea s.g. can be as high as 1.03x). you will want to invest in another hydrometer, maybe two. i keep two around. one floaty/bobber type (like you have) and one cheapo plastic needle device (coralife and aquarium systems make a couple). the plastic guy is accurate enough for my purposes but i like to have the piece of mind (and accuracy sometimes) that the other one gives. as far as circulation goes the rio 800 (this is a guesstimate) may pump 300g/hour. the rio motion device will slow this down a little too. i would run at least one of the 180's (maybe hide it behind live rock blowing across the back of the tank). flow patterns are up to you and the corals. IMO it seems to work well to have an overall circular flow pattern in the tank. for example if you're facing the tank. the rio 800 on the upper right side of tank blowing left and the 180 on the lower left blowing back to the right. alternating flow patterns are good too, and are accomplished by use of some sort of wavemaker (a fancy on/off timer). for a lot of nanoreefers though their are more pressing issues than alternating currents (like having space for animals-and less big clunky powerheads in the tank)! assuming you have photosynthetic inverts in the tanks they'll tell you if they're happy and if something has to change. and do some searches on lighting, 32W will be fine for live rock (it'll keep the encrusting algaes alive, prolly) but it won't suffice for most photosynthetic inverts. good luck with the tank! and be patient!

[Satchmo]

The difference between 1.021 and 1.029 is huge. You'll definitely need a more accurate hydrometer. I can't imagine why they would even make a hydrometer like that. Is it for aquarium use?

[Caesar]

I may be wrong but I've always been told that you should not put in LS without LR. I've been told by several people that the bacteria in the LS needs the bacteria in the LR.

[Xavier]

Thanks for the quick response.. it's much appreciated.

 

I was also concerned about the light output. When I purchased the retro w/ tank, my LFS guy said this was the one to get. I had done a lot of research prior to going out and purchasing this stuff, but I trusted his judgement. I'll have to speak with him again when I'm back in to pick up my LR. Would it make a difference if each tube was 32W, and that I'm using a reflection cover above the tubes? Speaking of LR, should salinity and pH both be completely stabilized before I add it, or will it assist in the stabilization?

 

I figure the floaty hydrometer must be for quick reference because the miniscus against the glass makes it real difficult to get a proper reading to the thousandth. And here I was thinking that plastic hydrometer was of lesser quality X). Sat - the hydrometer is specifically for marine tanks since it's got a green area between 1.02 and 1.03.

 

I purchased a box of Tropic Marin salt.. supposedly enough for 50g. I figured, half the box would be exactly what I need since I've got a 25g. I've got that powerhead, filter, and heater (current tank temp at 77*F) all going, yet I'm no where near being in the green. Is it possible that salt settles in the sand and until I add the LR and some bottom dwellers that it'll be kept churning (so until then, I could manually churn the sand - if the salt does settle)? I can't imagine it doing that though.

 

Thanks again for your help!

[Xavier]

Originally posted by Caesar

I may be wrong but I've always been told that you should not put in LS without LR.

 

This is the first I've heard. I asked the LFS guy when I bought the sand and he said I should come back later (again - how much later is later - after temp/salinity/pH stability? Or can I just drop that stuff in?). If this is the case I'll go pick some up in the next day or two (once I can get the salinity set) - you won't hear an argument from me!

 

Do many people use a quarantine tank with new LR once they've introduced livestock?