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Lighting in a 7 gallon bowfront AGA question


Chineseghoststory

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Chineseghoststory

I have been inspired by seeing so many nano-reefs having been made out of the AGA bowfront 7 gallon aquarium that I am pretty much convinced it's what I'll be using to house my own nano tank soon.

 

But what no one seems to be mentioning about this tank is how they dealt with it's built-in protective piece of glass that goes between the flourescent lighting fixture and the water. It would be easy to just buy the tank and put in a flourescent bulb suitable to a reef aquarium, but doesn't that built-in protective glass filter out all the wavelengths which the aquarium needs to be exposed to?

 

If it has to be removed, what method is recommended, and is that glass actually needed there? What if you just didn't remove it at all?

 

Thanks,

 

JCS

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printerdown01

I'm kind of shooting in the dark here, since I haven't actually seen what your talking about in person but... I will take a stab at it anyway. Let me start off by saying that I am not aware what ligting comes in the AGA 7 bow, but I would venture to guess that it needs a lighting up-grade to PC lighting. Without the protective glass inbetween the salt water and the PC end cap you will have major problems! I am not aware of a single PC manufacture that has developed a water-proof end cap for these lighting fixtures yet. If it is REAL glass it is very possible that it will filter out some UV light. There is a slight (but not likely) possibility that the glass has actually been manufactured to allow UV light to pass through. This technology is availible, but is not often used. I use the standard plexi covering that come on the eclipse hoods for my splash protection. No doubt it limits some of the UV, but it is well worth protecting the bulbs in my opinion. -just my humble opinion. If you don't mind me asking how much did you pay for the AGA, and what exactly comes with it (especially in terms of lighting, so that I might not be so ignorant the next time someone asks a similar question)? -Thanks, Anthony

 

*side note: a PC bulb produces anywhere from 2-3 times more lumen output (intensity or brightness) than a NO (normal output) bulb of the same wattage, and roughly takes up the same amount of room. Also NO bulbs must be replace every 6 months or so due to spectrum shift, while their PC counter parts approx every 12 months. However, NO bulbs are manufactured with water proof end caps. Honestly I would just go with the PC bulbs and the glass splash guard.

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The glass will block a very minimal amount of light and is not required to remove it. I would not recommend it at all. Without it in place you run the high risk of exposing your lighting system (whether it be the stock lighting or pc upgrades to moisture and that will either deteriorate bulbs and sockets or cause an electrical fire, which neither you want to occur!!

 

The stock 20w flourescent lamp will need to be upgraded and the most common jump is the Custom Sealife 32w Smartlite Retrofit kit. It will bolt in with very minor electrical work.

 

BTW a 7 gallon AGA should not run anymore than $50 and comes with a small base, tank, and full hood fixture with knockout plates for equipment.

 

Just as a reference I have attached a pic of a stock 7 box light fixture and a pic of my modded up fixture with the 32w CSL kit I mentioned.

7bowhood01.jpg

7bowhood02.jpg

Cameron

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I just got my PC's and took the entire hood off. Pics are in the member's reefs section under "Got my new lights, woohoo!" The setup with the clamp-on PC allows me to not use a splash guard, since the lights are about 4" off the water. I'll probably need auto-topoff when the weather warms up next spring due to incrased evaporation. Less trouble with heat build up, though.

 

However, if you have pets or animals that are likely to get in, or species of fish that like to get OUT this might not be the way to go for you. FWIW, I have heard of people removing the splashguard from this hood by just popping it out. I'd guess that if you heat it up to soften the glue, then use a straight razor, you could probably get it out.

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