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Help Spliting a Return Line

C Jerome

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I would like to find a better way to split my return line in half. I currently have a mag 7 with 3/4 inch pipe split with a T PVC fitting to two 3/4 inch lines one going to each of my two return bulkheads with lock line on the tank side.


I would like to find a better way to split the line, as i think the straight T is really cutting down flow. Is there any sort of Y fitting available? Or does any one have another suggestion?


I have done some searching and not had luck.

I am going to replace the mag 7, with a mag9 I just picked up in my area. The tank is 15 gallons with a 29 gallon sump/fuge. Two 3/4 inch return bulkheads, one 1 inch drain. The Mag is external.



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Yes, I need that but for schedule 40 PVC. Does any one know if they are made? I did not see them on some of the online PVC vendors.

I have one of those spliting my loc line thats in the tank.




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Hey Jerome, you can get a Y fitting with 3/4" hose barbs on the end, I'm using this on my 10gal, and it works better than a T. another option might be to use a 1" T with 3/4" reducers so the T junction has a larger volume.


I have a spare Y hose barbed fitting around here somewhere if you can't find it.. I'll try and remember where I got it from.



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I think any thing would work better than the T I have now. I just know that it is cutting down the water flow alot. I posted over on RC too and people suggested that I run 1" pipe out from the pump and then split that with either a T or one of those Ys (you linked to) down to my two 3/4 lines. I am not ready yet to commit to slip fittings as I would like to give the scwd one more try, but if that does not work then I think i will go slip, though I could put couplings on the 3/4 lines and still be able to switch it up if I like.


I just thought of that, maybe this is what i will do, hummm.


With those wyes on that site do you think that more water will flow to the line that is on the straight line than to the one that splits off?

Keeping in mind all of this has to be done while my system is off line, this is my only return and only circulator in the tank, i asked over on RC and they said that I only have to let the joints dry an hour and half or so and I should be good to go. In the interem I will throw a HOB in the tank and a PH pumpin water from the 'low' end of the sump to the high end to keep some flow. what are you thoughts?


Also do you happen to have any flat worm exit, I think I saw a few on my glass in the 2.5 gallon the other day, i looked it up and it cost $14, but you only put a drop a gallon, so i would need about a table spoon to treat my tank and have extra?



Mini Reefin

I dont have any photos and I am not at home so I can not take any but when I am I will. Please see these few links with some original plumbing plans, my final is different but it gives a general idea, also some tank photos. I still have not posted the DIY article that I wrote about completing this project, it is quite extensive and includes how I cut the glass, I have to finish it, and proof it. Do you think it would be alright to post as a PDF for people to down load? I guess I could also post it as a picture and a PDF.

15 gallon a

15 gallon b

15 gallon c


C. Jerome

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  • 4 weeks later...

Here are some photos of the new plumbing you can see it on the right. I have also posted in the DIY forum a really big article about how I build the external overflow, cut all the glass and buildt the sump.




This is a photo looking down at the rear of the tank


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