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Never give me Weld-on...


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Because this happens...


It's 12x12x7, the display being 12x9x7, and the sump/fuge 12x3x7. Its 4.4gal total, 3.3 in the display, and 1.1 in the back. The back bulkhead is drilled for a maxijet 404, with the ghettofied overflow gash on the opposite side. The saw I had didnt like making cuts in acrylic, so the nice overflow slots I had layed out got butchered. It'll work.


Things left to do include clean up the overflow gash, and make up a solution for getting water from the fuge to the sump. (Suggestions?) I didnt realize I hadnt done that until I cropped these pictures actually. And I waited to put the back plate on because I was going to work on that. See what happens when women rush you? X) :P I'll probably just hack at it a bit.


The MEK is curing overnight, and Ill silicone it up tommorow morning and leak-test it tommorow night probably.


The hood is fabricated from .063" 2024 Clad aluminum. Its 12x9x4, which should be big enough for the 2 13w PCs its getting. It fits snug over the display portion, sealing light from the fuge, or more appropriatly, the other way around, so I can rig a seperate 'fuge light later. Most probably a third 13w PC.


The hood is getting riveted up on monday, along with fabbing the reflector(s) out of .020" Alclad and polishing the hell out of em. That should be fun. zzz Anyone who's used the 13w PC fixtures from hellolights, would you recommend two reflectors, or a single?


Other thoughts?

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Why are you siliconing it? There is no need to and it isn't really going to stick to the acrylic anyway. If you must use silicon, use the GE 100% Silicon I. Water test it first and fix any leaks with weld-on. Use silicon as a last resort.

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More pictures. Gonna order the lights thursday if I cant find them locally. Came close the other day at Lowes. They had hand-held shop lights with 2 13w PC fixtures in them for $19.95, but I have no idea what kind of pin setup they use, and I doubt they'd accept them for return with the ballasts hacked out. :P


The hood is pretty much done though. The overflows work fine, but they're ugly as sin. I shouldve gotten a few acrylic tools (twist drills ecspecially). Lesson learned. Just have to get a splash guard in there, and some angled aluminum to hold the hood more reliably. (The shop heads on the rivets do OK, but Im afraid they'll fall and scratch it up.)



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Guest johnnye
Originally posted by supernip

I like it. But your hood will be trouble


Why? I really wish people on this site would give reasons, rather than just saying "No!". It's quite immature.

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Last one...


On a side note, I siliconed the tank literally 10 minutes before fade2black gave me reasons not to. Another lesson learned. ;)



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Originally posted by johnnye

Clad Aluminum, aka Alclad, has a layer of pure aluminum on the outside to prevent corrosion.


Bingo. Sacrificial corrosion. If I decide to, I might just spray it down with Zinc Oxide and paint it, but my painting facilities leave a lot to be desired. (Spraycan paintjobs look like crap)


Im gonna try it with a whole lot of buffing first. Those pics are right after a quick wipe down with never-dull, but Im gonna take the hood to a polishing wheel tommorow methinks.

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Blind Tree Frog

I could of sworn that pure aluminum was impossible because it will bond with something (I can't remember what) and form a film over it's surface, but I could of been wrong.


Why not just adonize it? That should fix it shouldn't it?

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Dr. Saltwater

Looks nice and different BUT .... the hood will get warm by the lightning so make sure you have a good ventilation. Also make sure that the inside is protected against evaporated water and seasalt!


Aluminium and freshwater is a option, but not one I should take. Aluminuim and saltwater ... hm. If you could, try to place anohter hood :S

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