Which Nitrate test to trust, API vs NYOS

[dnadrifter]

Background:

• New Tank, Water in tank for 14 days, Added Dr Tims Ammonia at Day 5
• Ammonia is coming down.   At 1 ppm last night, Raised to 2 ppm with ammonia last night, at 1.5 ppm this morning.  (I think)   Its at about 0.5 this evening.
• Nitrites >5ppm
• Nitrates showing 10ppm with API.....showing between 60-90 with NYOS  (although reviews say NYOS is off on the second card after 12ppm)

 

Should I do a 50% WC?   Get the nitrites down a bit, and it would also give me an idea how high my nitrates are (is NYOS close to correct)

 

Not worried about rushing the cycle....just wondering if I should do a WC given the high nitrites and nitrates.   Will keep on dosing ammonia as well...I would like to see 1-2 ppm go away quickly 12-24 hours.   So I am gonna keep making both NO2 and NO3

[DreC80]

If I remember correctly you only want to do a water change if your ammonia gets too high...as that can slow down your cycle.  I don't know that a water change to specifically get rid of nitrates would be beneficial at this point since the tank isn't fully cycled.  Once it's fully cycled you'll have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites and just do a large water change 50%...maybe larger depending on your nitrate levels.

 

I don't have any experience with the nyos kit, but with the api you need to make sure to shake the solution really well (second bottle if I remember correctly). I use the salifert nitrate kit and it's still hard to read in my opinion.

 

Have you added in a bacteria source to help the cycle such as biospira, Dr Tim's, etc?  14 days in I would have expected your nitrite numbers to be a little lower.

 

 

[dnadrifter]

Thanks for your reply.

 

Caribsea "live" sand since Day 1 for what its worth.   Dr. Tims bacteria at Day 5 along with ammonia source at Day 5.

 

So really its only been about 9 days since ammonia was added to any degree.

[Candymancan]

I use all API kits and then sdalifert for magnesium..  I have 13 Acroporas. and 50+ other corals.. honestly stability is all thats important.. not if Hanna checker shows 7.5 alk and api shows 8..  Keep it stable where youre reading and itll be fine.

 

As for the API kits go you need to make sure your holding the tube properly.  You need to hold the tube under WHITE lights like a lamp or a white LED..  and you need to hold the tube an inch or so AWAY from the chart..  If you hold it against the chart the shadow from the liquid/tube will alter the results youre seeing.. So 10 will look like 20 and 20 will look like 40 and 40 will look like 80.

 

Also test your water source.  I dont use RODI i use straight city tap water, but this water has 5-10ppm nitrates in it.  So if your water already has nitrates you might wanna check

[DreC80]

12 hours ago, dnadrifter said:

Thanks for your reply.

 

Caribsea "live" sand since Day 1 for what its worth.   Dr. Tims bacteria at Day 5 along with ammonia source at Day 5.

 

So really its only been about 9 days since ammonia was added to any degree.

Ok sounds good.  I would just keep going with your cycle and give it time.

[dnadrifter]

10 hours ago, DreC80 said:

Ok sounds good.  I would just keep going with your cycle and give it time.

Thanks.....I will plan on that.   Hopefully I will see a significant drop in nitrites soon.

[mcarroll]

On 4/13/2020 at 10:23 PM, dnadrifter said:

Not worried about rushing the cycle

Then you should have done a natural cycle instead of rushing it with ammonia.  👍

 

In 30-40 days it would be cycled with no help from you other than setting up the tank and getting everything wet.

 

Read about it in awesome detail in the Marine Aquarium Handbook Beginner to Breeder by Martin Moe.  

 

A great book that everyone should read before starting a tank.  Lots of missteps, mistakes and extra work could be avoided by a lot of people that way.