Torch coral not opening and amphipods are missing

[JohnCena]

Hello guys, I don’t know why my torch isn’t opening much. I got it few weeks back but it doesn't open much as it was in LFS. My other torch opens nicely but this one doesn't open completely. Those are the test results done at my lfs a week back and salinity is back to 1.026. Is there anything I could do? I had a 5 gallon tank for 5 months and moved everything to 20 gallon a month back. Also, i used to see alot of amphipods, real good size on the sand after lights are off and from a week back after adding montipora and the red algae in the back of my tank(please check the picture), I dont see any pods in my tank. What could be the reason for this too. One these pods are gone, i started seeing this green and brown algae on my sand bed(please check the pictures). Thanks for helping me with this.

[mcarroll]

Make sure you are using fresh water and not salt water to make up for evaporation.

 

Other than salinity your numbers look OK.

 

The algae is a normal thing for a tank. When a tank is brand new like yours it goes through several stages of algae usually. This is called the uglies. 

 

Do you have a cleanup crew yet?

[A.m.P]

Did your alk traditionally run higher or lower than 7.4? A swing down to 7.4 alongside the change in volume could absolutely aggravate or kill a sensitive euphyllia like a torch, otherwise I don't know, I don't think it isn't opening however... It looks more like tissue recession and potentially a polyp bailout. Hopefully I'm wrong =/

[JohnCena]

3 hours ago, mcarroll said:

Make sure you are using fresh water and not salt water to make up for evaporation.

Yes, I use RODI water for ATO and red sea salt for salt water. 

 

3 hours ago, Amphrites said:

Did your alk traditionally run higher or lower than 7.4?

I dont have a test kit at home, so i test my waters every month at my local lfs. Yes, I have CUC, three hermit crabs, 2 Nass snails, 2 snails that go on rock and glass, one cleaner shrimp.

[A.m.P]

You should invest in some test kits, the cheap API alk test kit can be had for around $7 on amazon and is more than accurate enough.

[JohnCena]

yes, will buy it soon. 

[Garf]

Do you have any idea what the LFS water salinity was at?

 

Your Phosphate and nitrate are a bit high. Is the only liverock in the 20g what came from your 5g tank?   What else was added to the 20g in the month since the migration from the 5g? What came over from the 5g, any fish?  What about sand? Anything added could have caused a cycle. Need a bit more info, wondering if you have enough biofiltration for the 20g.

[Squidfish66]

Algae = too much nutrients/waste so feed less and do a water change, also could be a flow dead spot.

no pods = they were eaten or starved or hiding, I tend to lose allot of pods when changing tanks.

unhappy torch = well allot of things they can be picky, I have one that will only puff up in random soft flow, slow linear flow and it’s pissed, fast flow, med flow same thing, and only likes 70-100 par. But I’m pretty sure the low alk is what is pissing yours off. 

[JohnCena]

17 hours ago, Garf said:

Do you have any idea what the LFS water salinity was at?

No. I think it would be 1.026. When I went to test my water, he said to maintain it as 1.026, so assuming it would be same over there.

 

17 hours ago, Garf said:

Is the only liverock in the 20g what came from your 5g tank?

There is no live rock, thats a dry rock I added in 20G tank after moving other two big rocks from my 5G and I have few bio balls sitting at back of the tank that came from 5G tank. Things added from 5G are few corals, CUC, sand, bio balls, two big dry rocks( they are all in the tank for almost 5 months). After moving everything into the 20G, I added another 2 rocks, it got red coraline on it but it was dry when I took it. i cleaned it and moved into the tank. Later after 3 weeks, I added few corals(torch is one of them) and 2 Clownfish and few CUC. 

 

this was my old 5G tank - 

 

[JohnCena]

14 hours ago, Squidfish66 said:

no pods = they were eaten or starved or hiding, I tend to lose allot of pods when changing tanks.

I saw alot in new tank and the clowns don't even touch them. Is there any way to increase alk without any chemicals?

[A.m.P]

I've no idea what you are asking at this point, everything is a chemical, humans are just contained sacks of chemicals, to increase alk you need PH buffer and a source of alkalinity. Mixing bicarbonate and carbonate will raise PH, buffer, and increase alk. Or I think you can actually bake the stuff to release the CO2, essentially making it the soda ash on ingredient lists, and it will just increase your alkalinity. Much easier to just buy some two part or a pre-mixed alk increaser, though a bit more expensive.

[JohnCena]

Trying to learn, I thought may be water change or something would increase the ALK. Thanks again, will try adding what you have suggested.

[pokerdobe]

Why increase alkalinity when we have no idea what the prior alkalinity was? 7.4 isn't that low.

[JohnCena]

will test my parameters again and will post the results here for more suggestions

[Garf]

I agree, 7.4 isn't low. What is your saltwater mix you add for water changes mixing at? That should be what you are targeting. If all you have are a few corals, two of which are torches, you shouldn't have much alk or calcium consumption, water changes will keep those params up. 

 

Also, adding rock to the tank, even if it was dry rock, or partly cleaned live rock would create a cycle. Perhaps that affected the pods. Your algae doesn't appear to be a problem, it looks like the typical stuff a new tank goes through. I would wait a couple months, don't add anything else, patience is key in reefkeeping. monitor parameters (you dont have to test every day, twice a week is plenty for the big three Ca, Mg and dKh).  Use the time to learn a bit more, get your maintenance routine set, and dial in the lights. 

[JohnCena]

2 hours ago, Garf said:

I agree, 7.4 isn't low. What is your saltwater mix you add for water changes mixing at? That should be what you are targeting. If all you have are a few corals, two of which are torches, you shouldn't have much alk or calcium consumption, water changes will keep those params up. 

 

Also, adding rock to the tank, even if it was dry rock, or partly cleaned live rock would create a cycle. Perhaps that affected the pods. Your algae doesn't appear to be a problem, it looks like the typical stuff a new tank goes through. I would wait a couple months, don't add anything else, patience is key in reefkeeping. monitor parameters (you dont have to test every day, twice a week is plenty for the big three Ca, Mg and dKh).  Use the time to learn a bit more, get your maintenance routine set, and dial in the lights. 

thanks Garf. The saltwater is at same mix at what the tank water is at. I'm using Red Sea Salt and making sure it is at 1.026. Will do more water changes and also wil try to change the location of the torch to see if its helps.

[Clown79]

Dosing should not be done blindly. There is a process to dosing or else it causes more issues.

 

Using a 2 part doser like ESV is far easier, especially for new hobbyists. You dose equal parts to maintain proper levels of ca and alk.

 

Testing newly mixed salt to gain your target number is the first step. If your salt mixes at 7.4(normal) then that's what your target number to maintain.

 

Then test alkalinity every day to watch for consumption levels.

 

Dosing should be done to maintain your target alk levels.

So if the tank isn't consuming alk every day or dropping significantly from the target number, then dosing isn't necessary.

 

If you don't like the levels your salt mixes at, then changing salts is less complicated because you will need to dose your new salt water for every waterchange and then possibly the tank for consumption.

 

Waterchanges work fine at replenishing alk until consumption becomes significant enough that dosing is required. 

 

 

[JohnCena]

Thank you Clown79

[Clown79]

36 minutes ago, JohnCena said:

Thank you Clown79

You're welcome.