Hammer and Frogspawn not opening fully.

[SURVEYMAN46123]

So I don't know what's going on with my hammer and frogspawn coral.  Usually the hammer is fully open and happy.   Below you can see in photos what I'm talking about.  

 

Until recently these corals were underneath a IM Skkye 18 watt led.  Non dimmable. Ran for an 8 HR period each day.  Corals, especially the ricordea and hammer were nice and open.  The frogspawn has never really opened much since I've had it which is disappointing.  

 

So the Kessil A80 has been on the tank for little over a week.  The first few days everything seemed happy and normal.  Then about day three you could see some of my zoa's reaching and the ricordea curling upwards.   So I upped the intensity a tad to around 50%.  I've left it there with no changes in those corals, and the hammer receding even more.  The acans love it and seem very happy.  The frogspawn is bigger than ever and seems happy as well.   My other colony of zoa's are really taking off with two more heads found during feeding this evening.  

 

So I'm not sure what's going on.  Re-position the hammer and frogspawn higher in the tank?   Keep the intensity around 30-40% for a week or so?   Increase the intensity?    Up the color spectrum to more whites?  Maybe my calcium and ALK are off.  Don't scold me but I need to get my own test for these as I usually have a local guy test for me.  The light is set 8" above the water surface and only on for 8 hours a day.

 

 

 

 

 

[ReefSafeSolutions]

This happens to me when my Alk gets out of whack (which is really easy in my tank, unfortunately).  These corals are very sensitive to Alk swings, I'd try and get it sorted out ASAP.  I've lost a few to Alk swings, it sucks.  I've also still have a few that got hit from Alk swings but didn't die and they still haven't really recovered, at least a year later.

[Clown79]

If you added a new light it may be why the euphyllia is not expanding. When changing lights, there should always be a slow acclimation.

 

I can't imagine the zoas were fine under the skyye light but needed more light with kessil. The skyye light is considered low light. I had it on my 10g.

 

Euphyllia don't need high light, they prefer moderate.

 

Another thing is alk and ca. If you have a lot of lps, you may be experiencing a lot of consumption which causes alk to drop which really effects lps.

[SURVEYMAN46123]

8 hours ago, ReefSafeSolutions said:

This happens to me when my Alk gets out of whack (which is really easy in my tank, unfortunately).  These corals are very sensitive to Alk swings, I'd try and get it sorted out ASAP.  I've lost a few to Alk swings, it sucks.  I've also still have a few that got hit from Alk swings but didn't die and they still haven't really recovered, at least a year later.

I purchased another frogspawn Monday and it looks great.   Everything looks pretty happy, except for that single frogspawn.   No matter where I put it in the tank, its unhappy.   As for alk, what do you do to keep it from swinging.

 

 

6 hours ago, Clown79 said:

If you added a new light it may be why the euphyllia is not expanding. When changing lights, there should always be a slow acclimation.

 

I can't imagine the zoas were fine under the skyye light but needed more light with kessil. The skyye light is considered low light. I had it on my 10g.

 

Euphyllia don't need high light, they prefer moderate.

 

Another thing is alk and ca. If you have a lot of lps, you may be experiencing a lot of consumption which causes alk to drop which really effects lps.

 

The intensity on the light is on the low side.   I'm slowly upping that intensity over the next few weeks.   As for the zoas, the pink zippers did not extend/stretch under he skyye light.   They started stretching after installing and having the kessil on the tank for a couple days.  

 

I will test my alk tonight and see if that is a culprit.   If it is low, what do you suggest I should do to up the alk?  

 

 

 

[ReefSafeSolutions]

If you added a new Frogspawn on Monday, it would make sense that an Alk swing wouldn't affect it because it wouldn't have been in the tank long enough to experience a major swing.

 

I use RedSea buffer (in liquid form) to bring my alk up, but do some reading on baking soda.  I've never used it but it is supposed to be a good way to bring your alk up.  I don't remember if you have to bake it or not.  Also note, even if your Alk reads at 7-8 and seems fine, it could have dropped from 10-11.  Coraline algae is a big alk consumer as well, so if you have lots of that growing, your alk may be getting consumed quickly.

 

I use kalkwasser in my ATO to keep my alk constant.  I used to really dig it but I'm not that enamored with it anymore.  It leaves behind a pretty big mess in the ATO reservoir.  I'm considering switching to a little timer and dosing pump and just dosing that way.

[Clown79]

To determine if you have alk and ca swings you have to test for 1 week.

 

I start out right after a waterchange by testing the tank -this is your target number (as long as it's not low)

Then then next day same time.

 

If my numbers have dropped, I dose with 2 part liquid  esv bionic. And test 15mins after dosing to ensure the qty dosed is correct.

 

I then test everyday to have a better idea of the consumption rate in my tank.

 

Example.

 

After waterchange your  Params are:

 

Ca 400

All 8

 

That's where you want it to stay every day.

 

Never dose blindly. Testing is essential for dosing because without testing, dosing can cause more swings.

 

As alk rises ca drops and vice versa, so 2 part dosing is really good because it keeps them balanced  

 

[SURVEYMAN46123]

Gotcha

 

Was hoping to stay away from dosing anything with my tank, but I just may have too for the health of my corals.

 

Thanks

 

 

[Clown79]

The only way to get away without it is usually pico's which have multiple waterchanges a week so it's constantly replenished or having a softy tank.

 

Lps  and sps tanks use up ca and alk, slot because that what builds their structure.

[SURVEYMAN46123]

1 hour ago, Clown79 said:

The only way to get away without it is usually pico's which have multiple waterchanges a week so it's constantly replenished or having a softy tank.

 

Lps  and sps tanks use up ca and alk, slot because that what builds their structure.

Gotcha.   I didn't brush it off, but I've been told a few times consistent water changes should be enough with the tank size I have.   I guess that advice was incorrect.

 

 

[Clown79]

I know you didn't.  

Many are told that nd it is possible but not in all cases. 

It really depends on the corals and their consumption rate.

[I'm Batman]

After a month how is everything? Did you do your week of testing?  ?

[SURVEYMAN46123]

7 hours ago, I'm Batman said:

After a month how is everything? Did you do your week of testing?  ?

Actually I did!  Here is what was tested and posted in my build thread.

 

7-6-17

Instant Ocean Salt

Salinity - 1.026

Temp - 78.2

PH - 7.9

ALK - 7.2

CA - 400

MG - 1275

Phos - 0

Nitrates - 10 ppm

Light cycle is 10 AM to 9 PM.  Low intensity on the Kessil A80.

 

7-9-17

Temp: 78.2

SG - 1.026

CA - 500

Alk - 8.6

MG - 1470

 

7-12-17

Temp: 78.1

SG - 1.026

CA - 470

Alk - 8.6

MG - 1460

Nitrates - <20 PPM

 

7-17-17

CA - 460

Alk - 8.4

MG - 1450

PH - 7.6

Nitrates <20 PPM

Temp 78.8

SG - 1.026

 

 

The hammer opened up but it has started bleaching a bit.   I've moved it to my office nano.   The frogspawn still doesn't open fully.

 

 

 

[Kody Rex]

I need help!! My tank has been set up for almost a month and parameters just balanced out and started reading great so we added two clown fish some hammerhead/frog spawn and some mushroom coral. As soon as we put the frog spawn in it started to close so we reduced the water flow and then had to leave for a family party. When we got back the whole thing was closed and even the mushroom coral looked unhappy. What should we do?