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Hello folks. Old reader, new poster, and 1st Saltwater tank.


Volnation

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Well 2 weeks in, and I'm currently having 0 issues. 2 Clownfish, diamond goby, skunk cleaner shrimp, nano torch coral, rose bubbletip anemone, and rasta zoas all added over the past 7 days. Everything seems to be thriving. I'm currently looking for a retrofit lighting system to up my par. I would like to be able to have sps corals.

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RIP Sebastian

Well 2 weeks in, and I'm currently having 0 issues. 2 Clownfish, diamond goby, skunk cleaner shrimp, nano torch coral, rose bubbletip anemone, and rasta zoas all added over the past 7 days. Everything seems to be thriving. I'm currently looking for a retrofit lighting system to up my par. I would like to be able to have sps corals.

 

GET THAT ANEMONE OUT OF THERE. There is no way your tank is stable enough for it.

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GET THAT ANEMONE OUT OF THERE. There is no way your tank is stable enough for it.

My LFS has checked my parameters 10 times in the last 2 weeks. They recommended for m to go ahead and add the CUC and the anemone. that was 2 Mondays ago i believe. The other stuff was added over the last 7 days. They told me that they would cover any loss I have with giving me the recommendations earlier than normal. They too are amazed by how quickly it stablized. They are going to start all their tanks the same way I have if it makes it past the 30 day mark. So far the Nutri Seawater and Nature's Ocean Bio-Active Live aragonite sand have worked wonders. The only other thing I'm doing that I have mentioned before is adding The Kent Tech CB Part A ln full dose and the Kent Part B in 1/4 dose for the corals and anemone. Parameters have been perfect since day 4.

 

I ended up changing powerheads from the Korilia nano 425 to Jebao PP-4 530-1000 GPH Wavemaker with Controller . It is 1000 times better in my opinion. I'll try to post some pics shortly.

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RIP Sebastian

My LFS has checked my parameters 10 times in the last 2 weeks. They recommended for m to go ahead and add the CUC and the anemone. that was 2 Mondays ago i believe. The other stuff was added over the last 7 days. They told me that they would cover any loss I have with giving me the recommendations earlier than normal. They too are amazed by how quickly it stablized. They are going to start all their tanks the same way I have if it makes it past the 30 day mark. So far the Nutri Seawater and Nature's Ocean Bio-Active Live aragonite sand have worked wonders. The only other thing I'm doing that I have mentioned before is adding The Kent Tech CV Part A ln full dose and the Kent Part B in 1/4 dose for the corals and anemone. Parameters have been perfect since day 4.

 

I ended up changing powerheads from the Korilia nano 425 to Jebao PP-4 530-1000 GPH Wavemaker with Controller . It is 1000 times better in my opinion. I'll try to post some pics shortly.

Your LFS is just trying to make money. Tanks can go through swings at any time, and usually do if they are less than six months old.

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A fish store gave you fish, coral, and an anemone for free?

basically yes after they saw how quick it cycled

I'll pay for it after the 30 day mark

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New tanks take months to become fully stable. There are many things that occur and change within the first 6 mnths. Thats why a lot of newbies give up and call it quits within 6-8 mnths because so many things occur that can be very frustrating and difficult to overcome.

 

Stability isn't just getting parameters to a level and staying there for 7 days straight. Its about stability for mnths.

 

Getting alk, ca, mag stable with no fluctuations can take work. Its determining what your tank uses everyday and how much you need to dose to keep your levels the same with no fluctuations between water change water and your daily use.

 

Dosing 2 parts is often only necessary when your tank is using up parameters. A new tank shouldn't even need dosing. Dosing when not necessary can cause fluctuations.

 

How much is your tank using daily that you need to dose?

 

Adding just that much livestock in 2 weeks can cause the system to have issues. The bioload is alot for a new system.

 

Most start with 1 fish or a small cuc and wait weeks to add more just so the system can develope and handle more bioload.

 

 

Anemones are difficult to keep and keep happy. Its recommended not to add 1 for minimum 6 mnths - a yr. Sps is the same.

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New tanks take months to become fully stable. There are many things that occur and change within the first 6 mnths. Thats why a lot of newbies give up and call it quits within 6-8 mnths because so many things occur that can be very frustrating and difficult to overcome.

 

Stability isn't just getting parameters to a level and staying there for 7 days straight. Its about stability for mnths.

 

Getting alk, ca, mag stable with no fluctuations can take work. Its determining what your tank uses everyday and how much you need to dose to keep your levels the same with no fluctuations between water change water and your daily use.

 

Dosing 2 parts is often only necessary when your tank is using up parameters. A new tank shouldn't even need dosing. Dosing when not necessary can cause fluctuations.

 

How much is your tank using daily that you need to dose?

 

Adding just that much livestock in 2 weeks can cause the system to have issues. The bioload is alot for a new system.

 

Most start with 1 fish or a small cuc and wait weeks to add more just so the system can develope and handle more bioload.

 

 

Anemones are difficult to keep and keep happy. Its recommended not to add 1 for minimum 6 mnths - a yr. Sps is the same.

Gotcha. Truth is I'm not going at this alone. Everything that has been done to my tank is on the recommendations of this forum and by my LFS owner. I live very close to the store and he stops by my house every 2 days. He drives by my house to and from work. He's a super nice guy. Basically he is doing this as an experiment for his business.

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Question about when to check ph. From basically every post I've read on here PH changes throughout the day. My question is what is the best time to check? When its at its highest or at its lowest? Or just a specific time?

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You could check it at the same time every day. However, most people get a range by checking just before the lights come on, and just before the lights go out. That said, as long as your tank isn't experiencing a CO2 problem, I believe that alkalinity is a more important parameter to monitor.

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Agree with Seabass.

 

When lights are off your ph is lower and after a duration of photosynthesis the ph increases.

 

Alkalinity is very important and if its in a normal range, ph will be as well. They work together. Unless you have co2 problems.

 

I test ph 1x a mnth now because my alk is fine and stable.

 

Don't chase ph and the worst is trying to correct it with products.

 

Ensure you have good water surface movement, open a window in the room a little bit for a few hrs, keep alk in normal range and you will be ok.

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Thanks guys!! Been busy all week getting my stores ready for end of year so I'm just now getting to see this. My alkalinity teeter near 2.5 meq/L

7 dKH
125 ppm

 

But my ph is still a little low. I have a wavemaker in the tank that works perfectly and the pump return points up towards the top.

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