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Can I SPS?


Carl_in_Florida

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Carl_in_Florida

It's opinion time. I have a torch that has been doing well for months. I want to know if I could get away with some montis (either caps or digis). Here are the specs:

 

I have a 10 with a 6 gallon fuge. The 10 has the standard 70 watt MH and 2 32 watt actinics. No problem there.

 

Water stays between 78 and 80 degrees. No problem there.

 

When I test my water (not very often) I never have any nitrates. I have only one fish, that I feed pellets (2) a day. Every now and then I throw in some frozen Formula 1. Tiny bio load. No problem there.

 

I never have tested my Ca or Ph. or Alk. I do water changes now and then and top off with RO/DI. Problem here?

 

I am honestly not going to begin keeping close track of my water. I set it up so it stays clean and I don't have to chase it. I don't like doing water tests so I don't do them. I am not going to test my ph at 3 a.m. and I am not going to get a Ca reactor. The farthest I am willing to go is drip kalk but that is pretty much it.

 

Do you all think I could sucessfully keep some of the hardier sps?

 

Honest answers please.

 

Carl

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My 2 Cents:

 

1. Go for it.

 

2. Look out for anything toxic in your tank... Most all soft corals are toxic to some degree, especially leathers such as Nephthea, Sarcophyton and Sinularia. Some zoos and shrooms are also toxic. There is no way to prove it, but i think a Nephthea (african green tree) leather I had close to my first Montipora digitata frag killed it. This is a big reason most people do a sps only or softy only tank.

 

You could run carbon 24-7 and change it every two weeks to a month if you wanted. I have also heard that skimming can help remove some of the toxins.

 

3. B-Ionic is totally easy, works like a charm. I dose my 10g in the morning. Takes 30 seconds and does not mess with the pH that much at all. I have seen some noticeable accelerated corraline growth in the past week since I have started using it. Besides, in a 10g, the small bottles will last you forever. I would recommend testing at least for Calcium in the beginning. You should only have to test a few times in the beginning... once you figure out the dosage for your tank, you should only need to test every couple of months or so, as your corals grow and consume more calcium.

 

Before I started B-Ionic, my CA was around 250, with Instant Ocean water changes, 1g per week. Real Ocean water is around 450.

 

Hope this was helpful. Good luck.

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Originally posted by emurray

[bBefore I started B-Ionic, my CA was around 250, with Instant Ocean water changes, 1g per week. Real Ocean water is around 450.[/b]

 

What was your alk while your calcium was 250? Do you recall?

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Undertheradar

One of my nanos is as you mentioned above. 10gallon w/ 70wattMH...sump...etc. I run a fuge and a nano-skimmer sometimes. I have been using R.O. water however, as the tap water here is high in phosphates among other crap. You didnt mention this, but I would at least test for that unless you use R.O. as well. Phosphates can really stunt the growth of stony corals. Otherwise, a 70watt is fine for many of the lower light SPS like:

Green monti cap

Encrusting Monti

Pruple digi

Orange digi

Green digi

brown type acroporas

red monti cap

some millipora

any LPS BTW

I have found that the 70watt is not enough for blue and purple millipora, pink monti cap, green slimer, any of the medium to high light acros (blue tortuosa is a no no). I would consider the 70watt halide to make the tank a medium light tank...even though it is 7watts/gallon, it is only 70watts! I have crocea clams in that tank as well, but they need more light as well (putting them in my 35gallon w/ a 250wattDE MH). The tank also has 300gph+ running through it...a tornado...but any less and the SPS just isnt as happy. I dont run a reactor or anything, just dose the 2part KENT calcium stuff...works fine.

 

If you really want to open up your options, swap out the 70watt for a 150...then you can do anything!

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Carl_in_Florida

Wow! I was not expecting this much feedback. I have a phosphate and calcium test kit. I guess it not be to painful to break them out and see what they read.

 

Under - Does my 64 watts of Actinic count?

 

If I drp kalk, would I still need to dose with b-ionic? Can someone give me a link to some concise info for the non-sps junkie?

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  • 2 weeks later...

yo carl.

i just gt some sps coral for my reef tank and i have a question about it. i put it in the tank and it started to wither in about a day. the next thing i know it was dead! how can you help me with my sps problems? i was wondering if it was maybe the calcium was too low, around 300 or so. Thanx a bunch LOL...

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