You Are All Using TOO Much Light!

[ReeferMo]

At least according to this chart:

 

http://www.marineandreef.com/Info/lighting...chart_hood.html

 

I mean, come on, it says that you can keep sps corals in a 10 gal with just a 28 watt 50/50 bulb! (In the interest of full disclosure, I have this light for right now - hqi to happen soon.) Even my lfs to me that while it might not be optimum, I would be able to keep just about anything in my 10g with this light. I tend to lean to the 'you can't have to much light' side of the fence, but stumbled on this site and just thought you all might enjoy debating it's merits. If nothing else - it may give newbies at least a starting point for determining their lighting needs.

[2muchreef4u]

i think that it is possible to keep some types of sps, but not all. a good example are some montiporas. let's say you want to keep a purple or orange monti, some will survive but will eventually turn brown.

 

i purchased an orange & purple monti frag a couple of months ago from a fellow reefer, however he only had about 32w off pc lighting on his 10g. basically, all his montis all turned brown, but survived.

 

they've been in my 8g nano under 96w pc's and are regaining their color once again. i also believe that feeding sps zooplankton also has to do with it. you can tell by the extension of little polyps if they're thriving.

 

here's my theory, 50% water quality, 25% lighting, 25% feeding for sps to thrive (this is only my observation)

[ReeferMo]

Just out of curiousity, what and how often do you feed your corals?

[tarantulaman]

All the lfs i been to have low light nano reefs . They looking nothing like the tanks on this site

[2muchreef4u]

i feed them heavily, but run a prizm skimmer 24/7. 3 drops of phytoplex & 3 drops of zooplex everyday (kent's). however, there are a number of options there just like dt's & biolife? which are better choices.

 

i also dose calcium (6 drops), iodine (3), strontium/ melobodoim (3) everyday too with kalkwasser top-offs. i don't suggest my theory is correct but have had good success. take note that you must dose properly because it may ruin your water quality.

 

i'd recommend sticking with just regualr water changes to replenish trace elements if you don't have a skimmer.

[ReeferMo]

My lfs has low light on their tanks with their 'for sale' stuff. But then they have their 'show tanks', and they are absolutely awsome - some of the best I have seen. BUT, those tanks have HQI's!

[FAC_WNY]

The planktonic feeding regimen I use is: DT's, Cyclo-peeze, and occassionally Golden Pearls. I don't like using the Kent's products..they're all "dead" stuff with preservatives. I prefer feeding my tanks with fresh stuff (DT's, Cyclo, and GP are all live cultures) whenever possible. Then again..I also make my own fish food out of fresh stuff and freeze it as well. Just a "health nut" for my tank..lol

 

Cheers,

Fred

[holyherbiness]

What does DT stand for? I've still not figured that one out.

[Jahkaya]

you let me know how well you can keep a table acro under that 1x28w.

 

too much? Compared to what? compared to the Sun at full noon over the equator in 2 meters of water? Kinda disagree with you there.

 

I highly doubt you would have success keeping a 4-5 inch crocea under that 1x28, unless you feed it DT's(phytoplankton)every day

[birdman204]

Perfect example, in my nano, under 70W 20K MH, i have a brown with very faint purple tips, montipora digitata... I threw a frag under a 400W 10K MH, and within 2 weeks, the WHOLE FRAG turned from brown, to hot pink/purple.

I'd rather look at a tank full of colorful corals, than a tank full of brown ones.

 

For Softies and LPS, you are looking at a different story, these animals mainly dominate lagoons, and water closer to shore with run-off and excess nutrients, there fore both water quality and light penetration is lower, and so PC's will help these types of corals do fine.

 

I dunno what DT's stands for , but they procure, and package fresh phyotoplankton for sale.

[ReeferMo]

[/b]

too much? Compared to what? compared to the Sun at full noon over the equator in 2 meters of water? Kinda disagree with you there.

 

I highly doubt you would have success keeping a 4-5 inch crocea under that 1x28, unless you feed it DT's(phytoplankton)every day [/b]

 

My point exactly. The posting was tongue in cheek about the chart saying you could keep stonies with a 28 watt light in a 10g. I am sure you prolly could, but it would not give optimum results. I read on this forum all the time about 'more light', and I just couldn't resist throwing out a little bait to the 'sharks'. Actually, I thought I would suffer alot more abuse than this!

[ReeferMo]

Originally posted by birdman204

Perfect example, in my nano, under 70W 20K MH, i have a brown with very faint purple tips, montipora digitata... I threw a frag under a 400W 10K MH, and within 2 weeks, the WHOLE FRAG turned from brown, to hot pink/purple.

 

 

Birdman, in your opinion, which would have MORE of an impact in this case - the wattage or the difference in going from 20k to 10k? Or would you say that it was of equal importance?

[birdman204]

I think the intensity(wattage) is more important. One of the reasons corals brown out is an increased production of zooxanthelle to compensate for the lack of light.

I will put a frag under a 20K and see what happens, just for chits and giggles.

 

I will post pictures of said colored frag vs. the browned out mother colony.

[brianemone]

one word

 

heat

 

oh and another

 

blind fish