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JBJ NANO CUBE 28


elusianzxelo

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reefernanoman

 

Maybe I am wrong, but 10 gallon out of a 28 gallon tank is a lot, on a weekly basis. I have a 50 gallon and only do 5 gallons each week. Although, my Bio load is not that heavy. I think 10% WC is more than enough, unless you have a high bio load.

I agree. I only do 3G weekly water changes on my NC 28G and it has worked very well for me.

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dragonxflare

I was only trying to get my nitrate to zero and was going to start to do 10% water change after that per week. but now, I just want to make sure rest of my fish stays alive....

 

Makes sense that you want to drop nitrate to zero, but big changes like that can shock your tank as well. I could be wrong, because I am still new to reef keeping myself, but if for example, your nitrate was at 50(not saying your tank is at 50), and you dropped it to zero.. that, imo, can do more harm than good, since its such a huge change for your coral / tank.

 

Again, I could be wrong, so someone please correct me if I am :)

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reefernanoman

 

Makes sense that you want to drop nitrate to zero, but big changes like that can shock your tank as well. I could be wrong, because I am still new to reef keeping myself, but if for example, your nitrate was at 50(not saying your tank is at 50), and you dropped it to zero.. that, imo, can do more harm than good, since its such a huge change for your coral / tank.

 

Again, I could be wrong, so someone please correct me if I am :)

As long as the salinity and temp are the same in the tank and replacement water, all should be OK. I have done real big water changes of more than 50% on both my NC 28G and Fusion 10G multiple times with no ill effects on my corals and fish.

OP, do you have central AC? I keep my house between 74-78 degrees with my central AC, and my NC stays between 78-81 degrees day and night. I also run my Nanocube 28G topless with LED's and don't even use a heater during winter here in south TX(temp can go as low as 35 degrees, and as high as 100+ degrees outside).

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elusianzxelo

it really sux is cause that I live in a apartment in California, and at day time there is no one home(portable in wall AC), and so we turn it on at night and I wasn't able to monitor it cause I was in San Diego, and not knowing that the temp of the tank drop from 79F/80F-ish(day time) and drop all the way down to 74F/75F-ish for three days and all my fish starting to act up, I now have the heater set up at 78F-ish so if temp drop it wont create that type of swing. I have the fish tank for four months now and this all started after I MOD my tank with LED light and mesh lid.

 

I really hope they will stop dying, at this point, I do not even want to replace the dead one until everything goes back to normal, I am afraid that they will just keep on dying because there is an infection of some kind, I have these fish for

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elusianzxelo

:*****(

injust checked my nitrate is zero..temp at 79...my firegoby is now gasping..no sign of diseases..just gasping...still eating i just dont know whats wrong...

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reefernanoman

:*****(

injust checked my nitrate is zero..temp at 79...my firegoby is now gasping..no sign of diseases..just gasping...still eating i just dont know whats wrong...

Sometimes there's just no explanation for what's going on in your tank. If you checked all your parameters and everything is in the green, there's not much you can do. How long did you have your fish for? Hang in there, because when I was a rookie, I killed everything a few times. Now I have been able to keep my maroon clownfish pair alive since 2006, after multiple tanks and even two states. Where your fish doing fine before the temperature swings?
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Not the cheapest way, but certainly the most effective...but I can keep my Biocube 29 to within 1 degree of my chosen temp (89F). Two 80mm cooling fans directed into the rear compartment, a heater, all controlled by a controller (Apex Lite in my case). It's been +100F here in Texas and the AC set to 77F.

A chiller is overkill for a small tropical reef tank. I have no doubt my fans (any cooling fan) could cool a tank down by 8F from ambient in a small tank.

 

When I set up my tank I made sure I could have redundancy, having the controller gives me about 3 levels - if the controller temp probe fails, the heater will switch off via its internal thermostat, as well as adding code that instructs the heater to switch off if there is an abnormal reading. If my fans get stuck on, then obviously the heater will kick in. With the controller my cooling and heating doesn't work independently but in unison. Of course I would recommend an Apex, but in all honesty you can pick an RKL up for just over 100 bucks. A small price to pay when you take the responsibility and are the custodian in the welfare of living creatures.

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elusianzxelo

I cycle my tank with food...and fourth week i start to add 1 fish per week for two weeks them 1 per week...i just dont get it..guess tha temp swing was tha bad...i had a 50 g before with corals...notthing dies..so bum out

I took a pic of my nitrates results will post it tomorrow

My fish was doing fine before the upgrade i did...man..i spend like 600 bucks so i hope i can move to coral sps

But i am just goin to let it sit and see...i had angel fish...blue tang and morron clown on my 55 g never this much prob

Guys could it be my led light tha is stressful to the fish????

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HarryPotter

I cycle my tank with food...and fourth week i start to add 1 fish per week for two weeks them 1 per week...i just dont get it..guess tha temp swing was tha bad...i had a 50 g before with corals...notthing dies..so bum outI took a pic of my nitrates results will post it tomorrowMy fish was doing fine before the upgrade i did...man..i spend like 600 bucks so i hope i can move to coral spsBut i am just goin to let it sit and see...i had angel fish...blue tang and morron clown on my 55 g never this much probGuys could it be my led light tha is stressful to the fish????

Negative on your light hurting fish. If you have a proper day and night cycle that isn't an issue.

 

1 fish per week is a lot. So you don't do any quarentine or make sure they are disease free first?

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tdannhauser30

Man youve had a rough little stretch hang in there! like reefernanoman said sometimes you cant explain it. All you can do after all your tests is keep your hands outta there and make it as stress free as possible, much easier said than done lol. Anyway I hope the goby pulls through. Do you have something to making a bit of waves in the tank or anything to help promote oxygen getting into the water? I probably have no idea what im talking about and its just a guess but when you say your fish is gasping it makes me think he wants more oxygen in his water.

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elusianzxelo

Well gasping is a sign of stress...inhave a aio tank tha has one pump goiin and a wave maker tha move water around...everything is covered...inhave been looking at my uograde for couple months cause it was goin to cost tha much...

Well gasping is a sign of stress...inhave a aio tank tha has one pump goiin and a wave maker tha move water around...everything is covered...inhave been looking at my uograde for couple months cause it was goin to cost tha much...

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tdannhauser30

pretty sure higher temperature works as a catalyst for oxygen depletion as well then again could be pulling that out of my @ss too lol, not completely positive.

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elusianzxelo

I use chami pure and filter floosss

So u saying lacks of oxygen?

I think it was the temp swing...but i just wanna pick uo the pc and move on..haha

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reefernanoman

Negative on your light hurting fish. If you have a proper day and night cycle that isn't an issue.

1 fish per week is a lot. So you don't do any quarentine or make sure they are disease free first?

I agree. Too many fish added too quickly if you asked me. I like to keep things under control and that's why I have always had a maximum of 3 fish in my 28g (currently it has been only my MCF pair for years now). I prefer to have a whole bunch of corals than too many fish.
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tdannhauser30

Yeah im not saying that as a definite answer, just something to think about seeing as we seem to be running out of options lol. Maybe someone who knows a bit more about it can chime in and let us know if thats a viable option or not. Just i was always told make sure to point at least one of my outflow pumps in the top corners up at the surface to agitate it to promote gas exchange ( I have a nanocube 28 as well). Especially with our hood covering 90 percent of the water.

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elusianzxelo

Here is just other update on my tank. This is the test I took yesterday, it has absolutely zero Nitrate. Oh well, lets just wait and see what happen. I might start an QT soon.

post-88319-0-51065000-1438366056_thumb.jpg

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HarryPotter

Yeah im not saying that as a definite answer, just something to think about seeing as we seem to be running out of options lol. Maybe someone who knows a bit more about it can chime in and let us know if thats a viable option or not. Just i was always told make sure to point at least one of my outflow pumps in the top corners up at the surface to agitate it to promote gas exchange ( I have a nanocube 28 as well). Especially with our hood covering 90 percent of the water.

 

Yes, very important. Especially if you don't have a skimmer and (as you said) have a hood.

 

I have pumps up even with my skimmer and rimless design. More O2= happier tank :)

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