Steve973 Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 After dinoflagellates have wreaked havoc on my tank, I have decided to remove all of the rock and sand and start over. Sure, I might be able to battle for the long haul, but it is severely keeping me from being able to enjoy my tank. It killed the few SPS frags that I had, and my green/purple hammer coral, as well as many motile inverts. I have been able to slightly control it with cycles of lights out, and peroxide MAY have had a bit of impact, but I've reached a point where I'm not able to make much more progress, and I just want to fix it. When I tear everything down, I am pretty sure that I can reliably clean all traces of it off of my glass and the equipment that I am using. But I have a little bit of it on a couple of plug-mounted zoanthid frags that I would like to save, if possible. I could give them coral rx and peroxide dips, and maybe even isolate them in buckets for a while. But if I do that, am I greatly increasing my risk of re-introducing the plague back into my tank after rebuilding it? Is this a really bad idea, and should I just chuck the zoanthids and start over completely? Link to comment
ajmckay Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Can you cut the zoas off the plug and put them on a new plug? Are you planning to use the same rock? Not a complete plan, but I would bleach and/or acid bath the rocks if you are planning to re-use them - of course this means starting over as well though with cycling the tank and such. Link to comment
Steve973 Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 My plan is to discard all of the rock and sand in the tank, and clean everything very well, then start with new rock and sand (and water). I have minimal tank inhabitants left: 3 small zoa colonies, 2 percula, and a peppermint shrimp. I will most likely donate the peppermint shrimp to a friend when I tear the tank down. Link to comment
brandon429 Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 The reason I would not is because they can import again even when you add a fish, they bring in hh on slime coats. The critical item not used here is uv and I think you shouldn't take it down, could happen again, we best dinos with oversized uv lots of times. Get a pond sterilizer 50x too big for your tank, works well. Simply adding the old fish puts dinos right back in Buying new fish from the store does as well, we can fix. Link to comment
Steve973 Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Get a pond sterilizer 50x too big for your tank, works well. How am I going to get a UV sterilizer onto a nano? And since it colonizes (and the problem isn't primarily in the water column) how does a uv sterilizer fix them? I have done a lot of research, and this is the first I've heard of using UV sterilization to combat dinoflagellates. Link to comment
Lauraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 I say start with new rock sand and water then give the fish a freshwater dip Link to comment
brandon429 Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Read last five pages of big peroxide thread see porkchop there is a water transitory phase that's unaccounted for so far. We beat these things, solve the large uv problem. Small pond pump and external uv sounds like any other install these are stuck to your fishs slime coat and will reinfect hesitancy allowed dominance, we take it back start over nt good option be creative in aquisition used pond gear craigslist don't get mugged Run the temporary uv, it doesn't stay hooked up forever, its an onslaught this is dialysis to fix the mass allowed to build your hand removal is key, remove 100% with tons of scrubbing and water changes Link to comment
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